When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I went and got the rebuild kit this weekend and rebuilt it. This is only the second carb I have ever rebuilt. The problem is still there, throttle response. When you push the gas it hesitates and it fills like there is no power or it's going to die. I pulled into a driveway this morning to turn around and it was a little hill and I didn't think the truck was going to make it out at first I had to punch the gas to get it out. A little history of the truck I replaced the engine the first of the year with a rebuilt 390 and had the trans rebuilt about 5 months ago. I have just about replaced everything under the hood. I have had this problem every since I replaced the carb about a year ago. I sometimes wish I would have just got a holley, but now I don't have the money to buy a new carb. Any ideas from anyone, I would really like to get this fixed but I have no idea. I'm about ready to drive it into the lake. HEEEEEEEELP
Sounds like there is stiil an internal blockage. On the rod from the accel. pump to the throttle is the rod in the outside hole on the pump arm and is it sitting in the second hole from the top on the throttle arm? Did you change the little red rubber check valve in the accel. pump? If these are okay, check the discharge nozzle in the carb throat for two steady streams of fuel when you open the throttle. The screw that holds the discharge nozzles in the carb throat sits over a thin rod that holds down a check ball. Is that stuff all there? Check your kit diagram to see what I'm talking about. If that's all there, it may need another soaking and blowing out.
i had a simalar problem with my carb, and i found that buy adjusting the idle speed, then the timining, then the idle speed, then the timming.... ect...ect... i was able to tune most of that out..
MK - On the rod from the accel. pump to the throttle is the rod in the outside hole on the pump arm and is it sitting in the second hole from the top on the throttle arm?
That's were I had it and I also tried it in the top hole.
Did you change the little red rubber check valve in the accel. pump?
Yes
If these are okay, check the discharge nozzle in the carb throat for two steady streams of fuel when you open the throttle.
It looked OK
The screw that holds the discharge nozzles in the carb throat sits over a thin rod that holds down a check ball. Is that stuff all there?
Yes the kit even came with a new Ball
you might want to look for a 1.12 carb. A bigger venturi will give you better response.
I went to the junk yard and got a motorcraft 2150 with the tag on it and on the side were the venturi number is it's a 1.2?. I rebuilt it and it works pretty dam good.
The only thing I hate is the other carb was brand new and I have had it for like a year and paid $250 for it. The only thing I can think of is that they put a to small of a carb on.
I was thinking could I take everything out of the old 2150 and put it in the 2100?
The number on the side of the float bowl refers to the diameter of the narrow part of your carbs throats. You can change jet sizes and use gaskets and power valves from the other carbs if you want to get into really fine tuning but I'd stay with the larger carb and maybe sell the smaller one to some guy with a 302.
Try putting larger jets inside carb. 2 small brass thingis that require removel with large screwdriver. Most have #numbers on them go with a bigger #. Should do it. Engine is big. Go to boneyard and get some off a 2150 -460. Or drill them yourself is a thought.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.