When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
1984 F150 4.9L - 206K miles - manual trans - orig motor
Occationally my truck would overheat way up past the HOT then cool down again. Sometimes I may drive 50 miles and everthing is normal. Sometimes I may drive only 1 mile and it overheats!
Changed the thermostat - and drained the system - still erratic overheating
Changed the thermost again - backflushed the system - removed the old A/C condenser - still erratic overheating
Removed the theromstat - run cold for a while then suddenly overheated...!!!
Tested my collection of thermostats - all open in boiling water
New radiator - new coolant - still erratic overheating usually after idling for a while in traffic then pulling away - the gauge shows a rapid increase in temp. At speed, even under load, it never overheats.
I have 2 theories water pump or head gasket. Any others?
Paul
Last edited by LimeyZ; Jul 16, 2005 at 06:17 AM.
Reason: info
I have heard of timing being retarded causing overheating. I don't know if this is the case but grabbing a timing light and checking it wouldn't hurt. If the gauge is the only indication that it is overheating could be a faulty temperature sending unit.
70blue, Good ideas. Timing was set at 10deg. BTDC with my strobe gun a few months ago. Not sure how to test the temp sending unit - think I have a spare somewhere though...
If you have access to one of those nifty laser thermometers you could find out how hot your engine really is. I would not suggest going out and buying one unless you are gonna use it alot. They are sort of expensive.
After reading a few other posts maybe the thermally activated fan clutch is the culprit? That could contribute to overheating at low speed. Off to check it right now...
Paul,
Is the truck physically overheating and boiling over... or is this just the gauge going high? I'm wondering if it might just be a gauge / wiring issue? Hate to see anyone rip into a water pump / cylinder head project for what might be a grounded out wire or a bad sender. If it's not actually boiling over, pinging, etc I would look into some other way of reading the actual engine temp. Maybe an aftermarket gauge/sender or check replace the stock sender and inspect the wiring.
Here's my 2 cents... Fan clutches go bad. The fan goes around, but doesn't pull the air that's needed to cool the engine. The problem shows up at slow speeds. I've replaced a few recently... Last two I did were in the 150 - 160k mile range.
Dungeon Master, The fan clutch is NOT working properly. After driving around for a while I stopped and checked the fan clutch. If anything it felt looser than the cold state! I can almost hand spin the fan when it's hot. Not good I guess!
Adam79, The engine never boils over and there's no pinging (I've experienced these events in other vehicles...). There's some relationship between idling for a while then pulling away and the gauge going off the scale then returning to normal at speed.
One thing I'm testing right now is an increase in idle speed. It was idling at approx 500 rpm and I reset to 750 rpm. My thinking is that at VERY slow idle speed the water pump is hardly circulating the coolant (AND the fan clutch is not working!) which overheats in the head. As I drive away, more heat is added to the coolant before any cooling by the radiator and circulation takes place.
Install a decent temp gauge. The stock gauges in these trucks are crap, and often misleading. I still have my stock gauge functional, but it will shot overheat, when the mechanical gauge i have is showing a nice even 180 degrees.
Well, I managed to wire the fan clutch to the water pump pulley and therefore permanently lock-up the fan clutch. My Son has taken the truck to work so I be getting a report later tonight...
Well, looks like the fan clutch is an important part of the cooling system 'cause since I locked it to the water pump pully there's been NO hint of overheating! Just bought a new fan clutch off eBay for $17.50 + $12.00 S&H to do a proper job.
Thanks everyone for your input - I was initially looking in the wrong direction and you straightened me out!
Paul
Last edited by LimeyZ; Jul 17, 2005 at 03:49 PM.
Reason: Bad grammer
Hey ... I've got a thermo clutch of my own to change ... '91 300 I6-runs warm in traffic w/ac on. Fan spins like a top. Found a nice new $30 Hayden clutch at O'Riley (In Dallas). They also have the tools. Other than making sure that I unscrew the fan in the right direction, is there any thing that can jump up and bite? I hate that stuff!. Question though, is there any way I can sub. a plain old solid mounted fan to the pully and never worry about fan clutches again?
Thanks,
Dusty(and hot/humid) in Dallas
You can replace it with an aftermarket fan but then you would have all that drag on the engine all the time. Another option would be a electric fan. As for removing it, you have it about down, just turn it the correct direction. If you have a full fan shroud it might be easier to unbolt it also and pull them out together.