I have a 1992 extended cab Ranger, 3.0 L V6, no A/C, 2WD, 217 K miles, which has developed an intermittent starting problem.

The symptoms when this occurs are that the starting relay clicks, but the starting motor does nothing - no noise, no engagement, does not turn. This sometimes is resolved by tapping the starter a few times with a lug wrench, and sometimes this has no effect. If I roll the vehicle to start the engine and drive for a while, the starter again operates for several engine starts. Contacts at the battery and the starter relay were clean when this problem arose, but I cleaned them anyway. Shorting the terminals of the relay does not turn the starting motor.

My questions for the very knowledgeable people in this forum are:

First, do you agree with my sense that the probem is that the starting motor is failing, and that the relay probably is ok? Both are original. Does preemptive replacment of the relay make sense, or would you leave that alone?

Second, how difficult is it to get at the bolts which secure the starting motor to the engine on this truck? Do I need to raise the front end off of the ground, or is it possible to do this with the wheels on the ground? When you do this kind of thing, do you trust jackstands, do you use cement blocks - how do you do it safely?

Third, neither of the two aftermarket manuals which I have for this truck mentions a gasket between the starter and the engine. Is this an error, or is there actually no gasket there?

Thank you for any advice which you can give about this.

Steve Ingalls
Cleveland, OH

 

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I had a similar problem with my high mileage 92 Ranger, except I had a 4 banger. The starter probably comes off pretty easy, but I can't say for sure. I didn't have to jack my truck up, but it would be easier if you did. If it starts drive it up on some ramps. Make sure to disconnect the neg. battery cable before you start. Take the starter off and have it tested at NAPA or something. The problem I had with mine was the positive cable. It was extensively corroded underneath the insulation. I replaced both cables and my interrmitent starting problems went away. Good luck, the 6 cyl guys can give you more info on removing the starter than I can.

 

Steve: 01 4Cyl has a valid point. While you may indeed have a dead spot in the commutator of your starter the battery cable could easily be the cause.

Next time the starter fails to do its thing, place a volt meter across your battery terminals. You should have somewhere in the vicinity of 12.8 volts. Have someone turn the ignition key to start and watch the voltage. If the voltage drops to between 10 and 11 energy is indeed being transmitted to the starter. If the voltage drops below 10.5 volts there is likely a dead short in the starter - replacement.

What 01 4cyl is referring to is the size wire of the battery cable which determines the amperage (flow of electricity) that it can sustain. If a goodly portion of those stranded wires are rotted or broken the voltage will still flow however the remaining wire that is not broken will not carry enough amperage to turn your starter motor.
Electric theory for today.


There is no gasket between the starter and its mounting. And yes you will need to raise the truck on a lift or jackstands.

Test these things and let us know what you determine. We are here to help as best we can.

Russ

 

Thanks, O1_4cyl and Ranger Russ. The diagnostics which you suggested implicated the starter, so I changed it out and the new one solved the problem. I appreciate your advice.