Transmission Coolers
1. Disconnect lies from the radiator and have only the cooler
2. Run the fluid through the radiator cooler then through the additional cooler
3. Run the fluid through tht additional cooler then through the radiator
It is my understanding that the correct way is # 3.
The reason, the transmission will work fine at the temperature of the radiator and that the problem occurs when the transmission fluid cannot be cooled to that temperature. In addition, it is my understanding that using option # 2 can cause problems, especially with torque converters.
I would like other opinions...
If extended cold wx is an issue, then use one of the plate type coolers with internal valve thermostat control such as a "True Cool self regulating".
Put in a bottle of LubeGuard ATF protectant, I've noticed a 20d drop in fluid temp after adding LubeGuard, have inline temp gauge.
Once upon a time I worked as a line mech for Dodge, GMC and Volvo and all three would void the trans warrantee if options 1 or 2 were used...
That was way back in the '60 and 70's when cars were cars and men were men... Argh...
Ford installs their optional tube and fin 2 tube 5x16" after the radiator intank cooler with no thermostatic bypass directly behind the front bumper opening. Most auto manufacturers recommend against install tube and fin type aftermarket coolers because of low flow problems. The plate and fin design has a higher flow rate and is the type used by most auto manufacturers as OEM options and addons.
http://www.dana.com/Automotive_Syste...04_Website.pdf
http://www.bulkpart.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=2&Category_Cod e=cooler-info
http://www.derale.com/ftp/derale_catalog.pdf
take ur pick, mileage and m.t.b.f may vary



