Starting issues
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Joined: Dec 2003
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From: Centerville, Iowa
Starting issues
1994 F150 302/5-speed Speed Density
My truck just started doing this today. After work I got in and went to start my truck, and it took about 4 seconds to start it, and it did that the rest of the day. When warm it seems to do it more. One time it even sputtered a bit as it was starting before catching, and just before parking it for the night it took about 4 seconds again to get it started. Any ideas? It's got 84,000 miles on it currently.
Any ideas? I was told timing, where/what does the spout connector look like, how do I disconnect it, and then which way should I be turning the distro? I'll have to get a friend with me to do it, or grandpa, but do you believe its the timing? Or anything else I should look at? Runs perfectly fine after started, no pings or anything, so I haven't a clue.
Thanks guys, help me out
On a side note: my brake lights also have not been coming on when I brake. When I barely tap the brake pedal the lights come on, but when I push on them further they go off. Tonight after church I tried a new switch, and I lost the ability to turn the lights on with just a light touch. Where should I look to now?
My truck just started doing this today. After work I got in and went to start my truck, and it took about 4 seconds to start it, and it did that the rest of the day. When warm it seems to do it more. One time it even sputtered a bit as it was starting before catching, and just before parking it for the night it took about 4 seconds again to get it started. Any ideas? It's got 84,000 miles on it currently.
Any ideas? I was told timing, where/what does the spout connector look like, how do I disconnect it, and then which way should I be turning the distro? I'll have to get a friend with me to do it, or grandpa, but do you believe its the timing? Or anything else I should look at? Runs perfectly fine after started, no pings or anything, so I haven't a clue.
Thanks guys, help me out
On a side note: my brake lights also have not been coming on when I brake. When I barely tap the brake pedal the lights come on, but when I push on them further they go off. Tonight after church I tried a new switch, and I lost the ability to turn the lights on with just a light touch. Where should I look to now?
Last edited by Saurian; Jul 14, 2005 at 09:43 PM.
Thread Starter
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Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2003
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From: Centerville, Iowa
Bump. I just pulled codes, and got none KOEO. KOER I *might* have gotten a 116 but I think it was just my being stupid, would a 116 have anything to do with it? Something about the ECT?
Postmaster
Joined: Jun 2004
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From: B/CS, Texas!!
Dont worry about ECT code...the truck must be warmed up before doing the KOER for ECT to pass.
I agree with polarbear. Try this:
-cycle the key to ON a couple(3-4) of times to prime the fuel system.
-now start it...did it start normal? same?
I agree with polarbear. Try this:
-cycle the key to ON a couple(3-4) of times to prime the fuel system.
-now start it...did it start normal? same?
Thread Starter
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Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2003
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From: Centerville, Iowa
I have been riding around with a Wix fuel filter on my backseat for about 10 months now ready to put a new one in....maybe I'll have to do that this weekend. Also see if my grandpa or any friends have a timing light.
When I leave to go back to work I'll try the priming and see how it does. If its the fuel filter....I'll be happy cause I've already got the filter with me =)
When I leave to go back to work I'll try the priming and see how it does. If its the fuel filter....I'll be happy cause I've already got the filter with me =)
Last edited by Saurian; Jul 15, 2005 at 01:16 PM.
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Posting Guru
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From: Centerville, Iowa
Well, I'm going over to a buddies dad's house to work on the truck, hopefully we can diagnose the issue fairly quickly. We'll check the timing, fuel filter - anything else I should be looking at?
Thanks guys.
Thanks guys.
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Thread Starter
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Posting Guru
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From: Centerville, Iowa
Ended up changing the plugs. The plugs in it were .064-.068 and we now have them at OEM .044 gap. Would the gap being .06X over be any reason for the issue? It does seem to start easier now, but it still seems to take longer then before.
How do you release the fuel filter. My best friend's dad didn't want to just yank the front peice off the filter and have something break, so we left it. I really don't see how the fuel filter would be the cause though because the truck runs just fine in the high rpm's under load, and the "priming" method doesn't help a whole lot.
Timing we didn't do, he said the timing was just fine. I'll probably check timing with my friend early this week.
Any other possibilities? Could this be the TFI module acting up? But if so..why does it do it when its cool too? I need to replace wires (Wires are likely OEM unless somebody went back to Ford for OEM replacements. We'll have to see. Any other ideas would be REALLY appreciated guys.
How do you release the fuel filter. My best friend's dad didn't want to just yank the front peice off the filter and have something break, so we left it. I really don't see how the fuel filter would be the cause though because the truck runs just fine in the high rpm's under load, and the "priming" method doesn't help a whole lot.
Timing we didn't do, he said the timing was just fine. I'll probably check timing with my friend early this week.
Any other possibilities? Could this be the TFI module acting up? But if so..why does it do it when its cool too? I need to replace wires (Wires are likely OEM unless somebody went back to Ford for OEM replacements. We'll have to see. Any other ideas would be REALLY appreciated guys.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2004
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From: Damascus-Boring, Ore
Stick with the simple stuff first- that's usually what it is, especially when you note that it runs fine at higher RPM's and under load. My '93 (5.0, 4EOD) did this a while back. Replaced fuel filter, shot carb cleaner on the cables, and it was good to go.I think the cables being gummed up was the real issue- didn't want to go to fast idle after starting before- fine now.
Elder User
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 500
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From: Penndel, PA
Fuel filter removal and replacement - there is a special tool available at most auto parts stores. Looks like a funny pair of scissors. Instructions on the back or in haynes manual. Trying to remove the fuel filter without the tool will probably cause you to break something. Simply yanking it off would ruin the seal causing a gas leak.
Either way, the fuel filter is cheap and although you may think you're running good, a fresh fuel filter can be a HUGE difference.
Either way, the fuel filter is cheap and although you may think you're running good, a fresh fuel filter can be a HUGE difference.
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Posting Guru
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From: Centerville, Iowa
Looks like I'll have to pick up the tool then. I need to go find the book. Where am I supposed to spray? Where the cables go to the TB?
Also, my brake lights still aren't working right. If I barely tap them, they come on, but when I press them to actually use the brakes to stop, the lights go off. I tried a replacement brakelight switch, and I lost the ability to even bring the lights on by tapping it lightly. What should I look at now?
I've already got the fuel filter from like 9 months ago when I got the truck, I just haven't put it on. You think the fuel filter could cause the issue even when it runs fine in high rpm's.
Also, my brake lights still aren't working right. If I barely tap them, they come on, but when I press them to actually use the brakes to stop, the lights go off. I tried a replacement brakelight switch, and I lost the ability to even bring the lights on by tapping it lightly. What should I look at now?
I've already got the fuel filter from like 9 months ago when I got the truck, I just haven't put it on. You think the fuel filter could cause the issue even when it runs fine in high rpm's.
New User
Joined: Jul 2005
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A common problem with the ford fuel injection system is the fuel pump check valve. When functioning properly, the check valve will keep the fuel system pressurized after the vehicle is turned off. However, when the check valve fails, the fuel system de-pressurizes once the vehicle is turned off. The pump then has to run longer to bring the system back up to pressure before the vehicle will start.
You can quick test the system without any tools by cycling the key on/off a couple times before starting the truck.
The purpose of cycling the key is to re-pressurize the fuel system. You should be able to hear the pump come on when you turn the key on. The pump will cycle for 1 second to build fuel pressure and will shut off.
If the truck starts easier after doing this, your problem is more than likely a bad check valve.
You can perform some more tests with a fuel pressure gauge if you have one.
-Mike
You can quick test the system without any tools by cycling the key on/off a couple times before starting the truck.
The purpose of cycling the key is to re-pressurize the fuel system. You should be able to hear the pump come on when you turn the key on. The pump will cycle for 1 second to build fuel pressure and will shut off.
If the truck starts easier after doing this, your problem is more than likely a bad check valve.
You can perform some more tests with a fuel pressure gauge if you have one.
-Mike
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We are happy you have chosen the best source for Fords!
Enjoy FTE....and
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Thread Starter
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Posting Guru
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From: Centerville, Iowa
Doing the priming doesn't help the issue. Could it be the TFI module? I know those act up alot, but I thought they just outright quit working.
I still need to do the timing, but what else should I look for? I mean anything. Orielly's didn't have a fuel pump thing so I need to run to napa in a minute and get one so hopefully I'll have hte fuel filter replaced.
This weekend my fuel tank selector valve went too, so my rear tank fills my front tank now.
I still need to do the timing, but what else should I look for? I mean anything. Orielly's didn't have a fuel pump thing so I need to run to napa in a minute and get one so hopefully I'll have hte fuel filter replaced.
This weekend my fuel tank selector valve went too, so my rear tank fills my front tank now.
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Joined: May 2005
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My truck does the same thing ( well sort of) It doesn't always want to start with ease when on the front tank but never a problem when running the rear tank. Only catch is that something in the fuel system is screwed up and the return fuel from the rear tank goes into the front. I had a quarter of a tank on the front and after going through 2 full tanks on the rear (stopping at the 25% mark each time) I now have a 9/10th full front tank.......... So I'm back on the front now and experiencing the stumbling and extra crank time to get it started again. If I don't burn off the front tank the rear will start overflowing the front (which isn't good obviously) Once it is going it doesn't have a problem and drives the same as if I was running the rear tank...I've tried the priming trick and it doesn't seem to help.