overheating 460
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
From: Washington
overheating 460
I have a problem understanding how a fan clutch works. Mine on my 88 Ford F-250, 460 w/air, acts thusly: When started up cold it is engaged fully (get that roar when rpm increased), after a few blocks it releases and the noise goes away. Normally the temp guage sets between N and O on the NORMAL lettering on the guage. Idlying with the air on and outside temp here in Washington state about 70 degrees the needle will rise to R or M ( have not let it get any higher). When I stop and turn off the engine and check the fan it turns just as easy as when cold. I have had the needle climb to the L (with camper on and a long hill) and still the clutch does not engage and give me that loud roaring noise). It has a 1 year old 4 row radiator, new thermostat and rad cap. I took it to a garage and they said the thermostat was bad and put in a lower temp one. That just lowered my normal operating temp to N or slightly below.
Any suggestions? I am going to check the timing next.
Thanks, roughcreek
P.S. This fan clutch was new about 10,000 miles ago when the previous new one froze up after about 2000 miles.
Any suggestions? I am going to check the timing next.
Thanks, roughcreek
P.S. This fan clutch was new about 10,000 miles ago when the previous new one froze up after about 2000 miles.
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 11,496
Likes: 6
From: Kansas
Your clutch fan sounds normal up to a point. If it has a spring or a coil on the front of it, once it reaches a set temp (so during a hill climb) is should release more oil and cause it to engage.
A cheap way to check it is to try using a hairdryer on it and see if it stiffens up or if you can see the coil move.
A cheap way to check it is to try using a hairdryer on it and see if it stiffens up or if you can see the coil move.
Cargo Master
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 2,982
Likes: 7
From: Somewhere Saskatchewan
If the fan clutch was after market they don't last very long.
Try a non clutch version.
It sounds like there isn't enough air flow.
Is the shroud in place?
I hope you don't have your spare tire mounted in front.
Try a non clutch version.
It sounds like there isn't enough air flow.
Is the shroud in place?
I hope you don't have your spare tire mounted in front.
Posting Guru
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 1,787
Likes: 0
From: covington wa.
I have the same problem, and infact i just posted in another post
explaining the problem and it definatly sounds like the clutch part
of the fan is not working properly, I soon will be replacing mine.
explaining the problem and it definatly sounds like the clutch part
of the fan is not working properly, I soon will be replacing mine.
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
From: Washington
I thank ye all for the advise. I replaced the fan clutch (it was under warranty) and now the clutch works. It comes on when first starting and remains on for about a block and then goes off. When the temp gets up to mid range on the guage I can hear the fan engage (but not fully) and the temp goes down. When I come to a town from the freeway and there is no airflow but still hot under hood, the fan comes on.
I tried the hair dryer on the spring and it did expand and contract visually but did not affect the fan movement. And I could see a little oil on the coil. So the new one is operating correctly. However, going up that same hill with the a/c on (truck empty)temp does rise to midway until the fan engages. Didn't used to do this. Thermostat is new, rad. cap is new. I had the system flushed, The timing is correct. Not losing any water and the oil looks OK. Water pump shaft was tight and free.
Weird!!!!!! No time for any more troubleshooting now. Leaving for Fairbanks on Monday. Thanks all, wish me luck. Roughcreek
I tried the hair dryer on the spring and it did expand and contract visually but did not affect the fan movement. And I could see a little oil on the coil. So the new one is operating correctly. However, going up that same hill with the a/c on (truck empty)temp does rise to midway until the fan engages. Didn't used to do this. Thermostat is new, rad. cap is new. I had the system flushed, The timing is correct. Not losing any water and the oil looks OK. Water pump shaft was tight and free.
Weird!!!!!! No time for any more troubleshooting now. Leaving for Fairbanks on Monday. Thanks all, wish me luck. Roughcreek
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
From: Washington
Made it to Fairbanks and back with no problem. Just getting a little hotter than I think it should. I am beginning to suspect the radiator. It was new about 3 years ago. I replaced the leaking aluminum 2 row with a copper 4 row Modine and it was good for a trip to Yuma and back with no overheating. Do you use the same coolant in both copper and auminum?? Could this be a problem??
Roughcreek
Roughcreek
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Gene/F-53/V10
1999 - 2016 Super Duty
1
May 16, 2008 10:05 AM
CheaperJeeper
Pre-Power Stroke Diesel (7.3L IDI & 6.9L)
25
Nov 17, 2006 05:42 PM
1978, 460, aluminum, cooling, f150, ford, heating, oil, overheat, overheating, poor, radiator, solution460, transmission, ventlation
