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1983 - 2012 Ranger & B-Series All Ford Ranger and Mazda B-Series models

clutch time

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Old Jul 13, 2005 | 09:46 PM
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rangersvt04's Avatar
rangersvt04
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clutch time

As my 96 (3.0L 2wd)nears 100,000 miles i have noticed that clutch is starting to slip and it gets kinda mushy on long tips(OD to 4th) .It requres a pump be fore it will release. any pointers on doing this hydro clutch? also what brands do you guys recommend?
 
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Old Jul 13, 2005 | 10:02 PM
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texan2004's Avatar
texan2004
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From: Friendswood, Texas
I used all Ford stuff because I've had problems with Auotparts strore clutch components in the past. No problems with the Ford stuff. Be sure to change everything while you are in there including the engine rear main seal. Make certain you get the flywheel turned and don't forget to change out the pilot bearing located in the end of the engine cranksaft.

Also, make certain you replace those rubber plugs in the shifter housing and all of the little fubber components in the shifter plate/cover on top of the transmission.

Get the bench bled slave cylinder with the throw out bearing from Ford. I never depressed the clutch pedal after disconnecting the hydraulic line. After reassembly, I did not have to bleed the clutch but I used the bench bled unit from Ford.

Also, Haynes manual says not to drain the fluid from the tranny befor removing in hoipes of being able to reuse it. Forget that. Drain the tranny and spend the $4.00 on new fluid. Much less mess that way. Be sure to drain the tranny before you pull the drive shaft.

Also - Very Important!!!!! Do not use an air or electric impact wrench on the flywheel bolts. I know a real ding-a-ling that did this putting the flywheel back on and had to buy new flywheel bolts. What an idiot. Took three or four days to get them and of course he made this stupid mistake on a Friday night. Wanna guess who this idiot was?? Use a torque wrench to put these bolts back in.

Good luck with it.
 

Last edited by texan2004; Jul 13, 2005 at 10:09 PM.
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