Drivers Side Door Sticking
Thread Starter
|
Elder User
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 718
Likes: 0
From: North Jersey, New Jersey
Drivers Side Door Sticking
I am having a problem with the drivers side door on my 96 Aero. No power locks or windows occasionally when I press in the handle for the drivers side door I hear the latch release but I can't open the door I have to roll down the window and operate the outside handle to open the door.
Usually after that the door functions normally until it does this again.
Is the latch just sticking and all i need to do is spray some silicone lube on it or is it something else?
Usually after that the door functions normally until it does this again.
Is the latch just sticking and all i need to do is spray some silicone lube on it or is it something else?
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 2,416
Likes: 1
From: Mitchell, SD
That sounds like the latch is sticking. Go ahead and spray some silicon lube liberally around and in the latch while opening and shutting the door a couple times.
If that does not fix it, I think that the linkage might be bent or loose for the interior handle and when you use the ext. handle, it causes the interior to be aliagned right.
Let us know how it goes.
If that does not fix it, I think that the linkage might be bent or loose for the interior handle and when you use the ext. handle, it causes the interior to be aliagned right.
Let us know how it goes.
Former ******
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 4,901
Likes: 2
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Better yet, use lithium spray. Lithium grease works better and last longer. It doesn't collect as much dirt either. The reason you don't have lithium grease in a regular toolbox, is it is not much good as a penetrateing oil. Its too thick to penetrate into rusted bolts and stuff. Silicon is second best, and a lot better than WD-40 as a lubricant. WD-40 is a good general purpose, but only really excells as a penetrateing oil.
Thread Starter
|
Elder User
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 718
Likes: 0
From: North Jersey, New Jersey
Well I can't find white lithium spray at the local autozone so I just ordered some.
I always wanted to buy lithium to replace that multi-purpose silicone based lube I use so often I wanted it but couldn't find it anywhere I guess the Aero got me off my lazy butt to get some
.
I'll let you know how it goes.
I always wanted to buy lithium to replace that multi-purpose silicone based lube I use so often I wanted it but couldn't find it anywhere I guess the Aero got me off my lazy butt to get some
.I'll let you know how it goes.
Last edited by krankshaft; Jul 12, 2005 at 03:26 PM.
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 124
Likes: 0
From: Northern California
Hmm
Hey Krankshaft,
Sounds like your door rods are bent. If you remember, my slider was goofed up. I tore it apart and fixed the rear latch and lubed the rollers. My rear hinge assembly need replacing someday soon. I used synthetic oil for my latches, I use it on the kids bikes and it works a long time. I may try lithium grease.
Hope you get your door fixed. With your help, my slider works works better than new. Thanks.
Take care
Aaron
Sounds like your door rods are bent. If you remember, my slider was goofed up. I tore it apart and fixed the rear latch and lubed the rollers. My rear hinge assembly need replacing someday soon. I used synthetic oil for my latches, I use it on the kids bikes and it works a long time. I may try lithium grease.
Hope you get your door fixed. With your help, my slider works works better than new. Thanks.
Take care
Aaron
Thread Starter
|
Elder User
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 718
Likes: 0
From: North Jersey, New Jersey
Glad I could help Nappers .
If the grease doesn't work I will tear into the door and check the rod out. Oddly enough when the van was about 4 months old some lady hit my wife in a large suv while she was parked the suv driver was on the wrong side of the road
.
The drivers door and the drivers side of the front end was messed up badly the dent in the drivers door prevented it from opening. I wonder if that is just a coincidence or when the door was dented the rod was bent as well or it could just be because the drivers door is used more often then the others.
.If the grease doesn't work I will tear into the door and check the rod out. Oddly enough when the van was about 4 months old some lady hit my wife in a large suv while she was parked the suv driver was on the wrong side of the road
.The drivers door and the drivers side of the front end was messed up badly the dent in the drivers door prevented it from opening. I wonder if that is just a coincidence or when the door was dented the rod was bent as well or it could just be because the drivers door is used more often then the others.
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 124
Likes: 0
From: Northern California
Both?
I would say that both would come into play. Maybe a bushing was knocked out or installed incorrectly thus, when you open it from outside, it realigns the rods momentarily then fails when it's out.
Just a thought.
My door is still working like a charm. Gonna change the tranny fluid & filter later today, then she'll be good as new with just over 171,000 on the clock.
L8R
Aaron
Just a thought.
My door is still working like a charm. Gonna change the tranny fluid & filter later today, then she'll be good as new with just over 171,000 on the clock.
L8R
Aaron
Trending Topics
Thread Starter
|
Elder User
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 718
Likes: 0
From: North Jersey, New Jersey
Well I got one of the white lithium lubes today the spray can type just came in and I got the 2 latch springs which were a little rusty which was probably why they were sticking and the two latch fingers. The door isn't sticking anymore.
So far so good I still will lube it more thorughly with my fingers when I get the tube type lithium lube though.
I wish the auto parts stores here carried the lithium lubes rather then that silcone junk no go at Autozone, Straus, or Carquest the only thing I ever used that for is in the channels on my windows when my power windows were moving slowly on my car and only because the stuff is clear and lithium is white.
Well another job well done thanks guys
.
So far so good I still will lube it more thorughly with my fingers when I get the tube type lithium lube though.
I wish the auto parts stores here carried the lithium lubes rather then that silcone junk no go at Autozone, Straus, or Carquest the only thing I ever used that for is in the channels on my windows when my power windows were moving slowly on my car and only because the stuff is clear and lithium is white.
Well another job well done thanks guys
.
Last edited by krankshaft; Jul 18, 2005 at 12:38 PM.
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Top 6 Best Deals Available on New Fords & Lincolns Right Now
Brett Foote
This Hennessey Takes the Expedition Tremor's Off-Roading Capability to the Next Level
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Fords at 2026 Carlisle Ford Nationals
Joe Kucinski
3 Best / 3 Worst Parts of Modern Ford Ownership
Brett Foote
10 Amazing Upgrades That Solve Common Ford Truck Owner Headaches
Pouria Savadkouei
Every 2026 Ford Engine Explained
Brett Foote
10 Ugly Ford Trucks That We Still Kinda Love
Joe Kucinski
10 Things Every Truck Owner NEEDS (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Verdad Gallardo
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 124
Likes: 0
From: Northern California
Good, I was able to take off the latch on the slider and soak in gas to get rid of the crud and then oiled it up with synthetic oil. Not sure if your latch comes off but if it did, maybe worth soaking in gas or other solvent to get rid of the junk. I barely slide the slider now and it works better than new. Got it lined up really nice, no uneven gaps or nothing.
L8R
Aaron
L8R
Aaron
Posting Guru
Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 1,642
Likes: 6
From: Northern California
On my Aerostar, (1987) I like to take a can of silicone spray, and spray the control arm bushings, sway bar bushings, and power steering rack boots with silicone and let it drip. Then I take a can of white lithium spray grease, and spray those same parts, as a coating, wiping off any excess. (I don't use any white lithium grease on the power steering boots) This keeps all of the rubber soft and pliable. On Ford products such as the Aerostar, engine heat will dry and crack the rubber slowly (but surely) on the control arm bushings. Once dry and brittle, they squeek noticebaly over every dip and bump in the road, especially when going up a driveway incline entrance, or going over a speedbump... SQUEEEKKK!! Do this cheap, easy lube routine every other year or so when you have your front tires off of the van, rotation etc. your bushings will not crack, or get brittle. When that happens, ride and handling performance suffers, plus you'll hear little squeeks and moans, popping noises etc. in the suspension. Oh yeah, spray the mounting areas, and shock bushings (front and rear shocks, top and bottom areas) also.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 1,642
Likes: 6
From: Northern California
Originally Posted by Ed
On my Aerostar, (1987) I like to take a can of silicone spray, and spray the control arm bushings, sway bar bushings, and power steering rack boots with silicone and let it drip. Then I take a can of white lithium spray grease, and spray those same parts, as a coating, wiping off any excess. (I don't use any white lithium grease on the power steering boots) This keeps all of the rubber soft and pliable. On Ford products such as the Aerostar, engine heat will dry and crack the rubber slowly (but surely) on the control arm bushings. Once dry and brittle, they squeek noticebaly over every dip and bump in the road, especially when going up a driveway incline entrance, or going over a speedbump... SQUEEEKKK!! Do this cheap, easy lube routine every other year or so when you have your front tires off of the van, rotation etc. your bushings will not crack, or get brittle. When that happens, ride and handling performance suffers, plus you'll hear little squeeks and moans, popping noises etc. in the suspension. Oh yeah, spray the mounting areas, and shock bushings (front and rear shocks, top and bottom areas) also.
Don't forget the Aerostar's transmission mounts bushings...
New User
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
I have the Same problem as krankshaft only mine is the Passenger door, for some reason it seems to be worse when it is cold out, I have a Haynes book on 1993 Aerostar but it really does not show the inside of the door, can someone direct me to a better source for a breakdown of the door with some instructions on getting in there, not too mechanically inclined, but with the right instructions I am sure I can do it. thanks in advance........................drummond
FTE Leadership Emeritus
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 161,999
Likes: 75
From: 3rd Rock
...Welcome drummond52 to Ford Truck Enthusiasts!
We are happy you have chosen the best source for Fords.
Enjoy FTE....and
JOIN CLUB FTE -SUPPORT THE FORUMS!
…..See you on the boards.
We are happy you have chosen the best source for Fords.
Enjoy FTE....and
JOIN CLUB FTE -SUPPORT THE FORUMS!
…..See you on the boards.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
hillcountryflt
1967 - 1972 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
3
Nov 30, 2014 12:33 PM
mkmchu
1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
2
Feb 23, 2014 01:29 PM
bladez51
1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
21
Sep 14, 2011 10:05 AM
49willard
1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
7
Jan 25, 2008 09:08 PM