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Let me guess Ed, is it hot like it is near me? LOL... I was told the high volume water pump has no effect on the radiator regardless of age, size, etc. The radiator cap is what makes the difference and holds pressure in the radiator. You shouldn't use more than a 7 lbs cap on the older radiators or the tanks come apart or something like that. The high volume water pumps merely circulate the water faster getting more volume of water flowing through the engine. I also heard, "don't waste your money on a high volume pump". Hope this helps.
I don't have specific experience with any high volume water pumps, but I wouldn't use one for the same reason that leaving a thermostat out causes the engine to overheat. If the water moves through the engine too rapidly, it can't gather enough heat to cool efficiently.
That's my theory...and I'm sticking to it.
P.S.: When I had my radiator gone through, the shop tested it to 20 psi. A 7-pound cap is recommended. I've had no problems with it.
Thanks Ed & Randy. I changed my old stocker out for a newer 4 core. 195 thermostat. 7lb cap. Runs about 190 driving and in traffic about 210 to 220. Once I get moving again it does down. I one 16" fan mounted in the center, pulling 1600 cfm, without a fan Shroud. I need to add the shroud which support two 12" fans. with fans the pull 3000 cfm. Was hoping to keep the temp down while in traffic with the high volume water pump.
Ed, I just replaced my radiator with one out of a 60 F100. It looks very similar to the 56 original. It's only a 3 row radiator. I'm running a flex fan and no shroud. I'm running a 160 degree thermostat. My truck runs around 170 to a maximum of 185 degrees. I'm also running a 7 lb cap and a stock water pump. I'd try changing out the thermostat, might run that truck cooler. 195 thermostat is pretty high. I would at the most go with a 180. I'm sure you'll see improvement in cooling.
I might be tempted instead to just change out the fan to a 2400 or even 3200 cfm 16-incher. They are in all the catalogs for cheap and are the same envelope as the one you are running.
I personally would leave the thermostat. My 351C likes running in that range.
Hi Ed. I am going with the high volume "flowkooler" water pump on my 460, 4 core from mid-fifty and a 17" stainless flex fan. I don't have the time on the engine yet to tell you how sucessful it will be but I,m confident that its going to run cool.
That is what they are designing these pumps for, isn"t it?
Wayne
Well, I recevied my two 12" 1650 cfm's Perma Cool fans, high rpm's, low 7.5 amps each, and mounted them on the shroud with a termo-switch, (They stuck the white lines off the road). Replaced the termostat with a high performance style 195. The motor gets to operating temp for a 390 and stays steady at 200-205 in stop and go traffic and crusing sppeds from 190 to 200. It's nice to see the temp drop when those fans kick on in stopped traffic.
I have a stock radiator with a stock water pump on my 460. I have an electric fan mounted on the radiatior with a 160 temp therm. Mine seems to run cool for a while(160-190) then from 190 after driving for a while it just seems to climb. Not sure what to do? I had thought about a high water pump but maybe not now after reading the forum. Not sure.
The Cleveland in my street rod used to run hot and the ultimate fix was a restrictor in the bottom hose, keeps the water in the radiator a little longer and gives it ''time'' to cool. Sits in traffic with the a/c on at 190.
I used a stack of large diameter washers with a 3/4'' hole. I stacked about 5 of them and welded them together so they couldn't turn sideways. After I found out it worked I replaced the original with stainless so it wouldn't rust.
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