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Alternate tranny temp sender mounting

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Old Jul 9, 2005 | 10:54 AM
  #1  
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Cool Alternate tranny temp sender mounting

I'm about at wit's end with installing the sending unit.
The dadburn thing won't break loose. I still haven't rounded out the bolt head but it's CLOSE!
I've contacted numerous shops and they won't touch it, including AAMCO.
One guy said to soak it down with brake fluid, let it sit a hour and use a six-point socket. I haven't tried brake fluid yet, but I will.

So, is there anywhere else I can mount the transducer?
 
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Old Jul 9, 2005 | 12:28 PM
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First question, what kind of wrench are you using to get the plug out? Have you tried removing the plug with the tranny being hot? If the plug head is close to being rounded and if you try a 6 pointer and it still doesn't work while the tranny is hot, you can use a dremel and cut a slot in the head of the plug and use a big head screw driver to continue working on getting the plug out. Hope this helps a little.

:-)
 
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Old Jul 12, 2005 | 03:29 PM
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bump
Still need ideas...
 
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Old Jul 12, 2005 | 03:32 PM
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Cut the line going to the cooler.
Install a "T" junction.
Drive on. Done it many times.
 
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Old Jul 12, 2005 | 03:39 PM
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Originally Posted by stuart1
Cut the line going to the cooler.
Install a "T" junction.
Drive on. Done it many times.
Elaborate please....
What did you use to put the sender in?
How much cooler was it?
Etc, etc...
 
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Old Jul 12, 2005 | 06:31 PM
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The line going to the cooler is the hottest point in the system.
Other than the convertor.
Take you sender to any automotive parts store and fabricate a "T".
You can then either use compression fittings or rubber cooler hose.
Don't use air line hose. It must say transmission hose on it.
 
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Old Jul 12, 2005 | 07:28 PM
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Steve I think that stuart's idea is a great one. Put the senser in the hottest part of the flow. If you really need to get that plug out, Snap-on sells an extractor socket that is like an inside out easy out if you can picture it. It looks like a socket but instead of the standard six point hex inside it looks a lot like a barber shop pole. Six spirals going up into the socket and the deeper it gets the smaller the diameter. They will grab onto a stripped nut and clamp down. The harder you turn on it the deeper and harder it grabs.
It's labeled by the Blue Point brand but it's sold through Snap-on. It's kind of like the generic brand of tools from Snap-on. The blue point part number for the 3/4" socket is: ttwy-241. I tried to call that number up on the Snap-on webstore, but it didn't work. However I have the socket here on my desk so I know that they are available. All the way down to 10mm I believe. Hope this helps.
 
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Old Jul 12, 2005 | 09:44 PM
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Kwik,

Those are excellent Tools... One word of advice, Go to Sears and buy the Craftsman Brand... It is the EXACT same thing.. I mean EXACT. You can save a bunch of money.

Cheers,
MK
 
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Old Jul 12, 2005 | 10:09 PM
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steve... let me know how this goes man... sorry this has been such a pain for ya..!
 
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Old Jul 12, 2005 | 10:33 PM
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If you are having that much trouble with a plug leave it where it is.
Don't screw with it or you could be sorry.
I have seen parts of cases ripped out.
 
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Old Jul 12, 2005 | 10:37 PM
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The plug stays in.
I'm going to use Stuart's plan of attack. I'll go get the parts tamale.
I haven't yet looked where to splice in and what else I'll need. I'll wait for daylight.
I'll post the results.

Thanks guys!
MUCH!
 
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Old Jul 12, 2005 | 10:52 PM
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Originally Posted by MKITTOW
Kwik,

Those are excellent Tools... One word of advice, Go to Sears and buy the Craftsman Brand... It is the EXACT same thing.. I mean EXACT. You can save a bunch of money.

Cheers,
MK
Thanks for the tip. I ruined mine trying to get a set of siezed locking lug nuts off of a customers car who had lost the key. They were made out of some HARD metal. I ended up having to heat them to nearly red hot and rotating it loose with an air chistle. Dulled the chistle too. I'll see about getting them warrentied from the Snap-on guy first, but they are Blue Point, so it could go either way. I'll go to Sears if I have to spend any money.

Steve_250 Good luck on your quest.
 
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Old Jul 14, 2005 | 03:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Kwikkordead
Thanks for the tip. I ruined mine trying to get a set of siezed locking lug nuts off of a customers car who had lost the key. They were made out of some HARD metal. I ended up having to heat them to nearly red hot and rotating it loose with an air chistle. Dulled the chistle too. I'll see about getting them warrentied from the Snap-on guy first, but they are Blue Point, so it could go either way. I'll go to Sears if I have to spend any money.

Steve_250 Good luck on your quest.
FYI - If you have a need for it. They do make a Deep Socket version in larger diameters, for automotive applications like the lug nuts. For those you may have to go to an industrial or MRO supply house. They are made by IRWIN, it may be under their sub brand Hanson.

Cheers,
MK
 
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Old Jul 14, 2005 | 08:38 PM
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If you put the sensor in the return line from the tranny cooler you'll get a faster read on temperature changes. I also think that measuring the return fluid will give a more accurate "average" temperature. If you measure the fluid going to the cooler you are measuring heat that the fluid has already removed from the transmission, and will be hotter than than the actual internal temp.

My .02 anyways.
 
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Old Jul 14, 2005 | 11:01 PM
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Originally Posted by MKITTOW
FYI - If you have a need for it. They do make a Deep Socket version in larger diameters, for automotive applications like the lug nuts. For those you may have to go to an industrial or MRO supply house. They are made by IRWIN, it may be under their sub brand Hanson.

Cheers,
MK
Thanks.
 
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