Power Windows/Locks
Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 2,838
Likes: 6
From: SD
I looked into these kits too, but was always wondering where I would find parts for it in 5+ years, would they still be making them? So I went with factory parts for my power windows.
Got the system out of a '86 F150: regualtors, motors, wiring and switches in door and wiring between doors. I cut the motor mount end off the '86 regulator and welded it to my '73 regulator. So it all bolts in and I just run the wire harness between the doors and had to connect one power wire to the pickup and it's worked great for several years. And the best part, I can get parts from any parts store. The whole setup cost me $20 for salvage parts.
Marty
Got the system out of a '86 F150: regualtors, motors, wiring and switches in door and wiring between doors. I cut the motor mount end off the '86 regulator and welded it to my '73 regulator. So it all bolts in and I just run the wire harness between the doors and had to connect one power wire to the pickup and it's worked great for several years. And the best part, I can get parts from any parts store. The whole setup cost me $20 for salvage parts.
Marty
Posting Guru
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 1,493
Likes: 1
From: Great NW
Originally Posted by 73Custom
I looked into these kits too, but was always wondering where I would find parts for it in 5+ years, would they still be making them? So I went with factory parts for my power windows.
Got the system out of a '86 F150: regualtors, motors, wiring and switches in door and wiring between doors. I cut the motor mount end off the '86 regulator and welded it to my '73 regulator. So it all bolts in and I just run the wire harness between the doors and had to connect one power wire to the pickup and it's worked great for several years. And the best part, I can get parts from any parts store. The whole setup cost me $20 for salvage parts.
Marty
Got the system out of a '86 F150: regualtors, motors, wiring and switches in door and wiring between doors. I cut the motor mount end off the '86 regulator and welded it to my '73 regulator. So it all bolts in and I just run the wire harness between the doors and had to connect one power wire to the pickup and it's worked great for several years. And the best part, I can get parts from any parts store. The whole setup cost me $20 for salvage parts.
Marty
Junior User
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 57
Likes: 0
From: Iowa
Awsome pictures.... This should be stickied or added to the tricks and tricks post. The last truck that I redid I never got power windows because I thiught it was too expensive. this is great!! I think I will be getting power windows!!
Postmaster
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 3,248
Likes: 0
I've use the ones advertised on JC Whitney on a friend truck. Along with replacing the weather strips on the doors. The motor had a difficult time lifting and raising the window. Removed the doors to drill the holes for the wiring on the door and on the door pilar. Also installed remote electric locks, the wiring was not to difficult to install. Use solder for all my connections.
As for the electric windows, my friend is using the window without the the electric motors, till the weather strip breaks in.
As for the electric windows, my friend is using the window without the the electric motors, till the weather strip breaks in.
Junior User
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 71
Likes: 2
for those who asked, the one's I got from A1 were excellent quality and easy to install, mounted right in the factory holes, the window motor looks to be the same as factory or close. The switch kit I used was the Joker Switch Kit and I mounted them in a custom insert I made for the door panel. I will try to get some pics up soon of them.
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Junior User
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 71
Likes: 2
Postmaster
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 3,248
Likes: 0
[QUOTE=darronb]Click here for window kits
Those good quality assembled kits. Alot better quality then JC Whitney.
Those good quality assembled kits. Alot better quality then JC Whitney.
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 193
Likes: 0
From: Ohio
I use the A1 kit. It looks well built to me. The most time consuming part was doing the wiring. I used the harness that can with the kit, it went smooth and easy just took time. I ordered their switches also, the ones that stand off the door panel about 3/4 inch and angle toward the back. The plastic stand off that holds the switches were black just like my door panels and completly covered up the holes. I think I had to open up the holes a little to get the switches to pass thru. People that don't know better think it's factory.
As for the power door locks I used GM door lock solinoids and made my own rod ( almost completely straight up)to run up to the door mechanism.
It was suprisingly easy.
As for the power door locks I used GM door lock solinoids and made my own rod ( almost completely straight up)to run up to the door mechanism.
It was suprisingly easy.
New User
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
I used the power window and remote control door lock kits from LMC Truck. Total cost (windows and locks) was <$150 (2 door). I originally thought the window motors were kind of hoaky - gears mount to the window crank shaft. We'll see about longevity. But they work very smoothly and rapidly raise and lower the windows. Careful where you get power from - current draw is pretty high and lower input voltage causes the motor to go into thermal shutdown (sound like voice of experience?).
Window kit includes trim pcs to hide the gear shaft coming through the door panel. Ended up gluing mine in place (outer cover to the inner trim ring). Only custom part I had to make was a spacer to make room for the thickness of the switch. You might be able to avoid this by chosing the switch location over an empty hole in the door. No such luck for me.
Lock kit was really nice - very easy to install. No extra switches - key or manual actuation on driver's side opens or locks both doors. Two remote key fobs provided in the kit have satisfactry range.
Window kit includes trim pcs to hide the gear shaft coming through the door panel. Ended up gluing mine in place (outer cover to the inner trim ring). Only custom part I had to make was a spacer to make room for the thickness of the switch. You might be able to avoid this by chosing the switch location over an empty hole in the door. No such luck for me.
Lock kit was really nice - very easy to install. No extra switches - key or manual actuation on driver's side opens or locks both doors. Two remote key fobs provided in the kit have satisfactry range.
Last edited by 78tinkerer; Aug 1, 2005 at 04:21 PM. Reason: Left out the kit content note.
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