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I broke the soft line for the rear brakes while on the trail clamped it with the vise-grips to limp it back home, still by the time I got her back all the fluid had drained out the back line. Replaced line, bled brakes(rr,lr,rabs,rf,lf) . I've done this a dozen times and I still have just a trickle of fluid from either wheel cylinders. And the bleeder valve on the rabs has no fluid coming from it. I've looked through some of the back post and this is my logic on this now. The rabs has a screen in the inlet line to the rabs ? If so, i can just break the line loose and pull the filter and clean it ? I also read something about a pin that can get stuck ? Is this in the junction block, rabs, or even on my truck ?
The pin should be in the proportioning valve. When psi drops in the front or rear it will shut down the front or rear so you still will have one set of brakes. Push it back in and pump them up slowly.
Picture isn't working i'm only getting 1/4 of it ? Anyways what i'm saying is when the pin is out it has shut the line off so how is any fluid going to get there in the first place to bleed it. Maby were not talking about the same thing ?
The pin must be in the outward positon to allow fluid to the rear wheels.
There is a special tool for this or a small pair of pliers will work.
I use a kelly clamp from an operating room.
My prop valve works the opposite way, the pin has to be in & there is no cilp? on it. However we don't even know the year or type of truck he's asking about. I was thinking it was a 73-79 style.
New picture worked.
It is for the front brakes. As per Haynes manual, with the pin out it allows fluid to go to the front disc brakes. You guys crack me up. On the 89 there are porportioning valves, abs and this other valve cannt remember the name. should be, go down from the p valve and along the frame theres another valve. they are desighed to move fluid to the brakes and not back. If fluid is forced back it can damage the valve. Each have a bleeder on and if you have that much air in the system you probly need to use a pressure bleeder and start from the master and bleed each to the back. Did you remove the bleeders from each wheel cyl and clean out to make sure on proper flow. if clean you can put a clear hose on going into a container with some fluid in bottom, over the end of hose and can determin (sp) the flow thru each brake cyl to see air in the line or straight fluid. Parts stores have alot of diff bleeder to help. Lastly, if its that dry on fluid its going to take a while to bleed. If you have to do it your self crack one rear at time with hose in container and pump pedal slowly and keep filling master and you will start to get results. Long post but lets get it straight.
A- Proportioning Valve: Reduces fluid pressure to rear brakes
B- Metering Valve: Holds off pressure to front discs until slower rear drums can react
C- Bleeder Rod: Must be pulled out when bleeding factory brakes
D- Brake Light Warning Switch
E- Pressure Differential Valve: Senses pressure
Last edited by Torque1st; Jul 11, 2005 at 06:28 PM.
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