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Rear Block Install

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Old Jul 7, 2005 | 09:48 PM
  #1  
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From: ND
Rear Block Install

I just got a new set of the 4" rear blocks for my 250. Is the install a do it yourself job? If so, can anyone explain the procedure for a driveway mechanic? Thanks.
 
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Old Jul 8, 2005 | 06:47 AM
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It's not hard first do you have air tools that makes the job much easyer.
Block the front wheels jack the truck up support the frame with jack stands with the axle unloaded with tires off the axles at least 8 inoff the ground

After removing the rear tires axle remove lower shock mounts put floor jack under one side of the axle make sure the jack can go down at least 6 inch remove u bolts drop axle lower axle install block reinstall new u bolts snug down u bolts not too tight they are going to settle. then do other side once tires are back on the truck and back on the ground toruqe bolts after driving for 100 mile recheck you'r toruqes on the u bolts.

The bolts will work lose at frist recheck the toruqe.
 
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Old Jul 8, 2005 | 02:48 PM
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Thanks, makes sense and sounds doable.
 
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Old Jul 8, 2005 | 03:25 PM
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Don't forget to add a plate or two to the carrier bearing hanger. You can get a kit from a 4x4 shop for around $50. You didn't specify the year, but if it's an 05 then there's a plate there, but you'll need to add more.

I'm in the process right now but haven't dialed it in yet. I've added about 1/2" so far and still have the shudder when I mash on the pedal or when towing on grade.

Mike
 
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Old Jul 8, 2005 | 04:47 PM
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From: central louisiana
Originally Posted by mwpierson
Don't forget to add a plate or two to the carrier bearing hanger. You can get a kit from a 4x4 shop for around $50. You didn't specify the year, but if it's an 05 then there's a plate there, but you'll need to add more.

I'm in the process right now but haven't dialed it in yet. I've added about 1/2" so far and still have the shudder when I mash on the pedal or when towing on grade.

Mike
from rubicon i put a rough country 3 inch suspension lift on my05 cc f250 i have done the spacers on carrier bearing tried every different amount it hasnt helped with shudder on takeoff or the driveline vibe i now have rough country said i need 2.5 degree axle shims to put the rear pinion back in the right position i now have them but havent installed yet i will post back later they only cost $20
 
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Old Jul 8, 2005 | 05:31 PM
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rough country said i need 2.5 degree axle shims to put the rear pinion back in the right position
I believe that's only required if the blocks you installed have NO tapper to them. Ford factory 4" blocks are tappered already. Please correct me if I'm wrong.

Mike
 
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Old Jul 8, 2005 | 06:12 PM
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The drive shaft spacer is only if you have a two piece drive shaft I running a 6.5 lift with no spacer I am running a one piece drive shaft.

If you are running a two piece drive shaft and can not get the vibration to go away you can have a one piece drive shaft made that can use you old yoke and just make it one long one.
 
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Old Jul 8, 2005 | 06:51 PM
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For the shudder did you check the alignment from front to back?
If you get the carrier bearing out of alignment it will do that or worse.
My Ford 4" blocks had no taper to them.

When I installed mine I only picked the back tires up about 3" off the ground.
You are only going to raise the truck 2".
I went the extra inch incase I had to roll it back and forth to get the center pin aligned, which I did.
I did not take the tires off, if the axle slipped off the jack the tires stopped it before it mashed me.
Measure the u bolts you have now, get new ones 3" longer than what you have now.
 
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Old Jul 8, 2005 | 10:26 PM
  #9  
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From: central louisiana
Originally Posted by mwpierson
I believe that's only required if the blocks you installed have NO tapper to them. Ford factory 4" blocks are tappered already. Please correct me if I'm wrong.

Mike
the blocks that came with the lift were tapered instructions said put small taper toward front contacted rough country and they recommended the 2.5 degree shims makes me wonder though if they really tested there kit because if this fixes it they need to make it part of their kit i hope it works if not i might remove the lift completely it is annoying one thing i did was to check the angles of a non lifted 05 superduty and got a reading at front of shaft of 3.5degrees amd at rear of 5.5 my lifted truck read 6 and 9 degrees so maybe the 2.5 shims will fix as it seems it will bring it back close to specs
 
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Old Jul 9, 2005 | 08:20 AM
  #10  
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Cool. Please post back when you get them installed.

Thanks,
Mike
 
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Old Jul 9, 2005 | 03:06 PM
  #11  
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I set my jack under the reciever hitch, heated and pulled the nuts off the u-bolts, jacked the hitch, slid the blocks in, set it down, put u-bolts and nuts back on. Didn't need to pull the shocks for mine(just going to a 1-ton block) took all of 30-45 min.
 
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Old Jul 14, 2005 | 09:38 AM
  #12  
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Did you change u-bolts or can you use the stock 250 ones?
 
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Old Jul 14, 2005 | 09:52 AM
  #13  
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Always use new u-bolts, as they stretch when torqued.
 
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