A few weeks ago I went to the dealer for my ABS light constantly staying on. I have an Eddie Bauer Ford big Bronco with a 5.8 L V-8 engine with auto trans, AC, P.S. P.B. tranny cooler, etc. Anyway I was told that I needed a new ABS module and ALSO a new radiator and a new front cover gasket. The labor would total 8 hrs for a total damage of $1565.00 (ABS module-$600.00, radiator-$208.00, coolant-$17.00, frnt cover gasket-$28.00 and silicone-$12.00)
Needless to say I did not leave the Bronco with them and will try to tackle the job myself since I'm retired and have time on my hands.
I can live with the ABS light staying on for a while and the slow radiator leak for a while.
I need to change the front cover gasket soon. How hard a job is this? I checked the factory manual and it states that the oil pan has to be pulled out( that means lifting the engine) but the Chilton manual does not mention anything about pulling the oil pan out but mentions cutting the oil pan gasket with a sharp utility knife. Also how hard is it to pull the vibration damper out of the crankshaft?
By the way where is the ABS module hidden?
Any help would be much appreciated.

 

The front cover meaning the timing cover? This being the case, there are two bolts going up through the oil pan into it. By pulling off the shroud, fan, crankshaft pulley, and harmonic balancer, you should be able to get to the cover. You'll need to drain the coolant and oil. But, you shouldn't have to take off the oil pan. I would want to put on a new oil pan gasket, but yes, that does require lifting the engine.

 

In my 94 F150 its behine the glovebox to the right. Its fairly easy to pull the glovebox and get to it. What year is your truck?

Some info on pulling Rabs codes for you:
Rear Anti-Lock Brakes

Before you start pulling the code always checks the fluid level, the MC float is not sticking, the RABS valve, sensor and float connectors are not corroded and the back brakes are adjusted correctly and the parking brake is working correctly.

RABS I
The RABS light must be on to obtain the DTC and the key can not be turned off or the DTC will be lost. Attach a jumper wire to the diagnostic connector (BL/OR) which is under the drivers dash and ground it , when the ground is broken the RABS light will begin to flash the DTC. You will have a DTC between 2 and 15.

RABS II
For 4WD vehicles, shift into 2WD, place the shift lever in PARK for automatic transmissions and NEUTRAL for manual transmissions. Turn the ignition OFF, set the parking brake and turn on the running lamps. Care must be taken to connect only the (BK/OG) stripe wire to ground. Connecting the mating connector wire to ground will result in a blown fuse. The ignition switch must be in the RUN position (engine does not need to be running), before disconnecting the RAB II diagnostic connector or the diagnostic trouble codes will be erased. Next, locate the black RABS II diagnostic connector. The diagnostic has two mating halves, one of which has a (BK/OG) wire. Disconnect the diagnostic connector. Attach one end of a jumper wire with a 10A in line fuse to the (BK/OG) wire side of the diagnostic connector. Ground the opposite end of the jumper wire until the ABS light begins to flash. Grounding the (BK/OG) wire starts the yellow ABS warning indicator flashing. A DTC 16 is obtained when the anti lock brake control module detects normal system operation. To clear the code turn off the ignition while the diagnostic connector is separated

Codes
The code consists of a number of short flashes and ends with a long flash. Count the short flashes and include the following long flash in the count to obtain the code number. For example, three short flashes followed by one long flash indicates DTC 4.

 

Thanks for your quick replies CTCH 88 and POPA TIM.
Yes its the timing chain cover gasket that needs replacement as there is a slow leak. Do they sell cut-off front oil pan gaskets if I decide not to pull the whole oil pan out? Or should I just use RTV sealant?
POPA TIM-It's a 1996 Big Bronco. I couldn't find any mention of its location( ABS module) in any of my manuals.

 

If your going to pull the timing chain cover off, I would check your timing chain gears or replace them while your there, I would install a double roller chain and gears if you decide to replace them. When I had my timing chain cover off I also changed the pan gasket, I bought a Ford gasket they are nice and come with a steel strip molded into the gasket to keep the gasket from sliping out the side of pan. I dropped my pan down cleaned the bottom of the block and the oil pan then slipped the gasket around the outside of the pan then lifted one side of the gasket over the lip on the pan then lift the other side of the gasket over the lip on the pan. If your pan is real dirty from wheeling I would cover the outside of the pan with plastic to prevent the gasket from getting dirty. With the steel strip in the gasket all your bolt holes line up perfectly and your gasket will not try to fall into the oil pan. Install the pan gasket after the timing chain cover is installed then your won't have any gasket problems. I hope this helps.

 

Thanks 94 XLT but I am not going to be that ambitious as this will be a first time for me. I would just like to change the front cover( timing chain cover) gasket without it leaking again.

 

I think it should have double roller chain in it from the factory.

 

When I checked with Ford to see if my Bronco did have a double roller timing chain they couldn't tell me. But when I removed the timing chain cover it did have a double roller. I replaced it with a new Cloyes double roller but there was very little difference in wear between the new chain and the 110,000 mile Ford double roller.

 

I have seen timing chains last longer than the whole truck, usually the rest of the engine is worn before the timing chain get too much slack, also it depends on how its driven and the clerences on the motor itself.

 

Fel-Pro makes a timing cover gasket kit that should have the partial oil pan gasket for the section you're going to disturb. In my experience, I have come to use only OEM gaskets or Fel-Pro. The hardest part of replacing the timing cover is getting to it. You'll need to remove all the front acessories, fan blade, and pull the harmonic balancer with a special puller. You may want to use an impact wrench to loosen the crank pulley - though you can do it with a breaker bar. Just be careful replacing the crank seal, the front cover won't tolerate a lot of force. A new chain set is cheap insurance, but if you can't detect much slack you may choose to let is keep going. Also, you'll need to change the oil after doing this job, as coolant and debris will inevitably fall into the open lip of the oil pan. Be sure to use a good auxillary sealer for the coolant passages, because it will help the fiber gaskets seal any irregularities in the block to timing cover joint. I like the Permatex Tack and Seal, because it is made to seal coolant passage gaskets, and it does not harden - it stays semiflexible. I've never had to reseal a water pump or thermostat gasket dressed with this stuff.

 

Broncophile - Since your Bronco is a '96, you should have 4 wheel ABS, not the RABS. The module is located on the driver side inner fender, behind the headlight. You will be able to see the wiring harness that connects it to the hydraulic control unit, which is located just behind the module, mounted on top of the frame. The codes that I have seen are for the RABS, not 4 wheel ABS, and I haven't seen anything that says that codes are the same between both setups. I also have the same problem with the ABS light - won't go out, but I won't replace anything until I can pull a code, and I haven't figured out how to pull the codes out yet.

 

You are most helpful Cheggie and Freakazoid. Sorry I could not get back to you sooner as I had trouble logging in, since the administrator required my password which I had forgotten.
Also thanks to Broncoroadkill for the input.

 

Cheggie,
How do you prevent the turning of the engine when you remove the big bolt that keeps the harmonic balancer(vibration damper) pulley in while using a breaker bar?
Much obliged.

 

Cheggie,
One more thing. Does that big bolt loosen clockwise or counterclockwise?
Thanks

 

The crankshaft bolt loosens counterclockwise.