was wanderin if folks ever drag there ol'slicks when im done with mine im shooten for a 10sec all steel truck.

 

when I first got mine I dragged all the way from Oklahoma to Kansas city

 

Thats a tall order for a 4000 lb. brick! I do a little and I know Fordboypete does. His truck is fast. Most of the tracks around me are 1/8 mile. I run 8.40's at about 84 mph.
Would like to get to a 1/4 mile track one day. I just hope when I pull up to the tree I don't see Pete in the other lane over there smiling at me!

 

HiYa Wizzard, Tiremine, et al

A 10 second Slick? Wow I'd like to see that. . . .

Several guys I know run their slicks from time to time. Most are in 12s & 13s some even slower. There's just so much potential as to what ya' can do with one.

I thought getting into mid 12s was an accomplishment! 10 sec ETs would be a miracle with an all steel driver Slick. Just too much frontal area, weight & "stuff" to haul down the strip for those numbers I think. It would sure enough be a Killer truck tho, huh?

FBp

 

Wiz, what motor/trans combo are you going with? "Mayhem" Bob over at the net54 forum has been mid 12's in his 1966 F100 Flareside truck. It Is a B/FX class drag truck though and running a 390FE, all motor if I remember correct.

--Mike

 

I know a thing or 2 about drag racing(hence the name) and a 10 sec anything is fast. People talk all the time about how fast their ____ is, without really knowing. To go 10 sec in the 1/4 is really, really fast. I have seen very few true streetable cars run in the 10's.(a liberal amount of nitrous was used in every case)

It is fairly easy to get a street vehicle into the 13's, to take that same "car" into the 12's is 4 times as hard(and $$$$$$$) as it was to go 13's. If you can get your truck into the 12's you have accomplished something. If you can drive the same truck to and from the track and fill it up at a gas station, you really got it going on!! Not to say 10's couldn't be done, but to do it will take one very serious motor, tranny, 4-link rear, BRAKES, and more....might not need a 'chute though, you'll be pushin more than enough air to slow you down!!

 

I don't know how fast mine is going to be. I'm not building it for the 1/4, though. More like highway gears. I'm in the process of putting together a 521" engine, solid cam, ported heads, 10.4:1 compression, RPM Air-gap intake, 850 DP holley and a hopped-up C6 with a 2500 stall.
Going in a 63 Unibody with a lowered chassis Fatman IFS and 4 wheel disc brakes. I've got a 3.91 Detroit Locker pumpkin on the shelf, maybe I'll throw that in for a weekend and see what I break.
Of course, it's a long ways off from being done.

 

A problem I would be afraid to discover running a 140 -145 mph index 10sec rides can achieve is the "aerofactors of a slick" at 140+ mph. Even one with great suspension.

At 120+ mph you enter a second aero dynamic stage. The first is 60mph, third is at 180, if you've ever done an honest 120 in a Truck that wasn't built to do it you know what I'm talking about. It can present the kind of thrills you don't really want. I really shudder to think what 140 would be like, even in in my truck. It's fairly well built to do 120+. As long as I'm on the power or while braking it handles fine.

When I first let off & vehicle attitude changes, stability gets thin at 120+mph. I have to ride through a period of instability to let things settle down before I transition into the weight transfer of braking to slower speed or a stop.

As momentum loads suspension during braking, handling returns to a good comfortable level, but the initial 3 or 4 seconds of transition from acceleration to braking is strange to say the least. Believe it or not a chute makes it worse, there is a opint there when the chutes Aerodrag has control as it lifts the weight and momentum off the ground.

I can go through a curve at 120, or down the boulevard at that rate, but I can also ease out of the throttle, I don't have the room to ease out in the traps, I have to lift. It's that sudden change that's freaky, what must that be like at 140-150 in something with the areo envelope of a dempstey dumpster ?

I agree with Prostock, 10s is easy to say but for someone who is not used to being there, it's nearly impossible without Cubic Money and a race support team, and the realities there are profound, to say the least.
I'd guess it cost me $1200 to go from 13.0 to 12.60s and believe me $300 per tenth second is cheap compared to going from 13s to 10s. I bet that could easily run $1,000 a tenth (or a $30,000 investment from 13.0 to 10.0).
That's a lot of cash for something that I doubt I would enjoy if/when I accomplish it.
FBp

 

I'm building a 63 uni shortbed and i'd be happy getting into the 13's with it. I figure with the weight of the truck plus the body style it will not do the best,let alone get any traction, but i love the looks of the old uni's.you guys will probably booo me for this! but i'm running a 440 chrysler and 727 auto. my dad and i went together on it and i'm doing the body and frame and he is taking care of the engine( he is a big chrysler nut) I drug the truck out of a field where it had set for 20years. I took the body off the frame and started from there.but I always wanted to try dragracing and i'm going to be able to do it inexpensive since dad had the engine.check out my gallery!

 

I don't know about others, but I can appreciate someone putting a 440 in their truck. I just have a hard time when I go to car shows and about 80% of the old Fords that are hot rodded have Chebbie small block. Then the Chebbie powered truck gets "best Ford." I guess there ought be a mongrel class and more pure classes.

 

Friend, You are either in denial, or a real dumb butt. That is a race setup if I ever saw one, it IS NOT a street setup.

You will have one heck of a time trying to run it in traffic. IMHO

John

 

It's not going to be a daily driver.
As far as race set-up, 10.4 compression is too low compression for a race engine. Used to have a 427 in a car that had 13.2:1 compression, now that was a race engine.
What do you feel will be so difficult about running in traffic??

 

If he can get a trans with overdrive it'll work fine on the street as long as it stays cool. I run a 514 on the street. Just likes for the temp to creep up. But decent street manners. Of course your not going to fool anyone into racing Also for the street I'd recommend a hydralic roller or solid roller for better street manners. A solid cam is really made for high rpms and you will rarely use it on the street. I also didn't like the thought of adjusting valves every month or so (Motor is in a Mustang).

What cam were you planning to use?

 

Spaznaut,
I'm going to run a big crossflow rad, so it will stay cool.
Cam will be something like this...
255/265 duration @ .050" lift, low to mid .600" lift, ground on a 108 LSA. It's based on a Comp.

Check out these slicks...

[url]http://www.network54.com/Forum/thread?forumid=85220&messigeid=1120603058[

 

I agree solids are not street lifters and the ramps on solid lifter cams don't last long at low RPM. Engines running solids generally don't top oil well in the street. Rollers may help, but mechanical/ solid lifters are a bear to run in traffic. I will say also they tend to have a limited lifetime compared to other cam/lifter choices.

Where can anybody purchase fuel in the street? A 500+ CID engine running 10.4 :1 at street RPMs, with "traffic" temperatures, will take 104 or 105 octane. Only place I know to get that is from an FBO at an airport. Octane boost isn't gonna do it for ya. AV gas is $3.75/gal & upward for 100 octane. It does not have Excise or hiway taxes included in that price. . .

FWIW in the September Issue of Street Rodder Magazine, on page 38 of the Window Shopper Column, at the upper left hand corner is a piece about Gear Star in Akron OH making what they claim are bulletproof FoMoCo AODs.

I know a litle about FoMoCo AODs and I know there are 3 basic types. The article does not say which one or if they can upgrade all, which I'd have to see to believe,
But anyway they have all the right "names" for aftermarket upgrade stuff, and they mention some of the intrinsic problems Ford AODs have suffered from in the past.

They did say to 700 hp & 700 lb/ft of torque. . . . their website is listed as being: www.gearstar.net, although I have not tried it yet.

FBp