Air Conditioning
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Freshman User
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 47
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From: North Central Indiana
Air Conditioning
I have a 92 7.3 non turbo F250. The air conditioning barely comes out. It comes out cold but not very hard. I had one shop tell me that the blower motor is working. But there is a filter behind the dash that gets clogged and they wanted to take my dash of to clean it(at a high cost), so I told them to get bent. So i went to another shop that I heard about and he told me the evaporator under the hood was clogged and quoted me a price of double of the first place. Any idea whaich on is right, are they talking about the same thing? The second shop told me to save money I might be able to take the blower of and be able to get in there to try and scrap it clean. Has anyone done this I'm not worried about taking the blower off that's easy but how easy is the evaporator to clean can i get my hand in there. Has If i have to can I change the evaporator my self he told me It would take him a day and a half to do. Is it someting I should leave to the prof. I love this truck and I've soaked alot of money in ti in the past year since I got it with rerpairs, but if I can clean it instead of replace it i'll do it.
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2004
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On my 93 the air was still cold but it would barely blow out the vents. Blower was replaced with no inprovement. I found out that I was loosing vacume to the selector valve that changes it from floor/vents/defrost and that it wasn't fully working. I was basically blowing air through everything. Valve is under the pass dash. I could move it by hand and could feel it blowing correctly. Fixed that and it blows nicely. Don't know about a filter. When I had the a/c checked they didn't mention anything about that being a problem just that everything appeared to be working properly.
New User
Joined: Aug 2005
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Did you ever resolve your problem? I have a 92 350 that is doing the exact same thing. Not 20 minutes ago i installed a new blower and there was no improvement. I am interested in hearing if you found anything out. Please let me know.
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From: 3rd Rock
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Thanks Tim. i will read through them soon as I get a free chance to actually sit and do "nothing". i have leerked around here before but never registered. Thanks for the warm welcome.
Louis
Louis
Originally Posted by Tim Lamkin
...Welcome cajuncutter2000, to Ford Truck Enthusiasts! Please read the Guidelines, it will help you to navigate through and understand this site.
Stick around someone will be by shortly to answer your question.
We are happy you have chosen the best source for Fords!
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…..See you on the boards.
Stick around someone will be by shortly to answer your question.
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More Turbo
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 743
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From: MI -- farmboy
I had a dodge once where the air did not come out for the amount of noise the blower was making. Turns out (no kidding) a squirrel had crawled into the fan and died. First time the fan was ran, all the blades or fins broke off. Was not what I cared to find when I tore it all apart, but after removing the squirrel and changing the blower, it worked fine again.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 21,285
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From: Nutter Fort, WV
The gaskets may be shot on the blend door also.
Something may be blocking the blend door from moving all the way closed.
Water for the heater always flows through the heater core.
The blend door is what controls the air flow through the heater core or the evaporator.
Since these trucks use R 12 freon, service is best left to the professionals with the proper equipment to evacuate the system before it is opened and evacuate the system again before reinstalling the freon.
Something may be blocking the blend door from moving all the way closed.
Water for the heater always flows through the heater core.
The blend door is what controls the air flow through the heater core or the evaporator.
Since these trucks use R 12 freon, service is best left to the professionals with the proper equipment to evacuate the system before it is opened and evacuate the system again before reinstalling the freon.
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New User
Joined: Aug 2005
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Well I figured it out!! Like SLA was told the coil was clogged. After posting I went out and removed the new blower motor and there it was. It was covered in a green furry film. I cleaned it with a brass brush carefully. After talking to a buddy that works on AC he told me I can get the foam type cleaner and spray it on and it will disolve all the crud in there and it will leave a thin film that will not allow the bacteria grow back. The thing blows 10 times harder now. It actually flaps my shirt around!! Tomorrow I will go get the foamy stuff from my brother-in-law who works on home AC's, he said he can get it for me. By the way my AC is converted so no R12 here. I will follow up as to how this stuff works out. I hope that after a good cleaning it will blow even harder. Now all i have to do is find new vents.
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Freshman User
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 47
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From: North Central Indiana
Well I pulled my blower and tried to yse an air compressor to blow the fins clean, they didn't looked clogged from this side. and the door that opens in where the blower is looked good. What kind of foan cleaner could I spray in there to clean it if it is dirty. I mechanic earlier had used an air compressor (alot bigger)to blow air threw the vents. And some stuff came out and it worked a little better. If I can clean the evaporator instead of replace it would be great. It's $600 bucks to replace it and that's not includining mine is an R-12 system. I cwas going to convert it but decided not to after I checked it and found its perfectly charged. I had thought that might be the problem. The selector valve might be a little of the problem but it doesn't account for the VERY little air I'm getting.
New User
Joined: Aug 2005
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Ok here is my setup. After finding your thread and seeing you say that the shop told you the coil might be clogged I removed my fan and there it was. I had green fur all over it. I took a soft brass wire brush and racked it across the coils lightly to remove the thick top layer. This morning I went to a local AC shop and asked for aerosol foam cleaner. The guy looked at me like I was nuts when I told him what I was up to. I got home removed fan again and shot it all over the coil. The grime immediately started to drip. I shot it 4 times and solid mud was coming out of my drain hole on to the ground under the truck. I then took my water hose with a high power nozzle and held the tip right up to the coil. Now I did this against the advice of a buddy of mine, which is unfortunately out of town. He told me not to spray water but I did it any way. I have no idea what the long term effects will be but I figured if the coil is in there sweating up a storm and dripping water all day long then what would be wrong with a little extra moisture. Soon as I hit it with the water it turned nice a shiny. The coil looks brand new. My system is converted so it only cost me 10 bucks to bring the charge up but when I did it got COLD!! Now my truck will freeze you out. I have been driving in it this after<?xml:namespace prefix = st1 ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com[img] /><st1:time Hour=[/img]noon</st1:time> and the AC works great! Hope this all helps.
Elder User
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 577
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From: Peoria IL
How do you fix the selector if its losing vacuum. I have myne tie-strapped in the vent position but this winter I will have to strap it back into the defrost and floor position.
Does the vacuum line get a hole in it or what?
Does the vacuum line get a hole in it or what?
i ain't rite
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 65,448
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From: Marlboro Mental Hospital.
dan, most of the time you loose vacuum because the little line under the hood breaks. look at the passenger side, and you should see a little, tiny, black line that looks like a wire coming out from under the heat box, and going to the vacuum tree on the firewall. i bet this line is broke where it connects to the tree. i take the fitting off the tree, and use a dental pick to get the broke off stub out of it. then just clean cut the end of the line and stick it back in and reconnect to the tree.
New User
Joined: Aug 2005
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Sla sorry for the delay on what exactly it was I used. The stuff is called CAL-SPRAY evap foam no rinse by Nu-Calgon. I is in a green can. It really works wonders. Should not cost you more than 10 bucks. I used half a can. That was 4 repeat treatments. The process took me an all of about 40 minutes. 3 sprays right off the bat and one rinse with the water hose. Then I shot it one more time and let it sit for 30 minutes and shot it one more time with the water. Hope all of this helps. Beats paying an AC shop 500 bucks!!
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Freshman User
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 47
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From: North Central Indiana
I think I found the selector vlave under the dash. When I change the direction nothing happens but i can pull the lever(under the dash) and it changes from a/c to defrost. How do I tell if the valve is bad or the vacum line is the problem. It still doesn't correct the problem but the a/c comes out a little better. Going to try the a/c cleaner within the next week. Have some hvac buddies.