I’m installing a new long block in my ’81 F10 and am having a problem getting my inline 6 engine lined up with the automatic transmission. Originally I borrowed an engine hoist to pull the old block out and slide the new one in. After putting the four nuts to connect the torque converter to the flywheel, I bolted the bell housing back on and bolted the engine to the engine mounts and returned the hoist to its owner. Then I found the engine was bound up and wouldn’t turn over. When I loosen the bell housing bolts, the transmission moves back about half an inch then the engine will rotate.

I’ve been told the torque converter has evidently slid out from it’s seating and that I need to unbolt the flywheel from the torque converter and move the transmission back 2 or 3 inches in order to be able to get to the torque converter to reseat it.

The problem with that is, the two studs coming from the base of the transmission won’t allow me to push the transmission back that far without removing the cross member from under the transmission. All I have to support the transmission is a floor jack.

It seems that I need to either borrow/rent a transmission jack, remove the cross member and perhaps take apart the drive shaft,
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Or

I need to borrow/rent an engine hoist again and pull the engine back off of the engine mounts to gain access to the torque converter.


Do any of you have a suggestion as to which of these I should do, or if I should perhaps do a third option?

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Thanks for any help,

Matt

 

I know automatics are heavier than manuals, but I was able to just lift the tranny out of the crossmember and slide it back far enough. I think I had the tranny resting on a floor jack at the time.

 

Since the engine is in, leave it in.

With the motor mounts installed, you need to carefully and gently jack up the rear of the engine. Support the engine by the oil pan on large square blocks of wood. That should hold the engine in place.

Perhaps you can borrow a motorcycle jack to handle the transmission. That's what I use. Not perfect but it works. You may also be able to support the transmission with your floor jack and blocks under the transmission pan.

Make sure the long block didn't come with a pilot bearing for a manual transmission installed in the end of the crankshaft. My machinist installed one of these in the end of my cranshaft, just because he assumed I had a manual transmission. It took me an hour to get it out. Your tourque converter has approximately a 1 and 1/2" nose that should fit into your cranshaft. The pilot bearing reduces this hole down to about 3/4", You don't want that for an automatic transmission.

 

I recommend buying/renting a tranny jack, I got a good one from Harbor Freight for about 50-60 bucks. Still works great after about 5 tranny swaps.

 

Have not done this, but someone once mentioned unbolting the tranny crossmember from the frame and sliding that--with the tranny still bolted to it--back a couple of inches. You could use the jack you have to support it when you shift it back. Just throwing out something I read....