Broken thermostat bolt
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Freshman User
Joined: Sep 2002
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From: Norfolk USA
Broken thermostat bolt
My truck recently started overheating. I went to the local parts store and purchaced a $5 thermostat an prepared to get my hands dirty. I am sure you could imagine my surprise when I broke one of the bolts in the intake manifold. This should not have surprised me, because I broke 4 bots on the water pump. Not knowing exactly what to do, I broke out my drill and prepared to drill a hole through the bolt. Once finished, if I would have grabbed a bigger bit and drilled outward, then I would probably been driving my truck by now. But I did not. I purchased an Easy-out kit and tried to back it out. You guessed it, I broke the easy-out inside the bolt. I have drilled and drilled and have made no progress. I am at a loss and have ran out of ideas. Is there any other way to get this bit out? I have been using cobalt bits and have worn them down. Is my only alternative to replace the intake manifold or is there any other way to get past the easy-out? This should not go to this extreme, it is just a damned thermostat bolt.
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Joined: Feb 2003
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From: Fort Worth, TX
Kinda off topic, but when you replaced the thermostat did you use a gasket, sealer and or gasket maker? Im replaceing a thermo and haveing hell of a time with leaks. you might try to JB weld a smaller bolt to it, and see if it can hold on and back it out that way.
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Freshman User
Joined: Sep 2002
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From: Norfolk USA
I used the gasket provided and silicone. I have never had a leak at the housing, but I tend to over-muscle everything. Hence the broken bolt. I hear alot of guys are having trouble with warped thermostat housings. Perhaps your thermostat is not remaining seated during the install.
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Freshman User
Joined: Sep 2002
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From: Norfolk USA
I'm not even gonna try th JB weld, I can never get that stuff right. I have already drilled and broken the extractor. The problem is that the extractor is harder than any bolt could be. Yes, it is broken off flush and I am trying to round up a welder. I thought someone could recomend how to remove the broken extractor. I would like to suggest, to anyone else who may experience this, do not try to use an easy-out or a bolt extractor. They will most definitely break and cause you alot of heart ache. Just do what ASETim said and drill it out and use a heli-coil. It will be sooooo much easier.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 5,377
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From: Elkhart IN
im not sure if theres a good flat spot to mount it, but you could try an electromagnetic portable drill press on it.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2004
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From: Lafayette, IN
Yeah, don't use the easy-outs next time--get a left-twist drill bit. Use one that is about or slightly smaller than the minor diameter of the broken bolt. Since you'd be drilling in reverse, as soon as it gets any bite, it will back the bolt right out.
Also...get yourself a torque wrench...you shouldn't be breaking that many bolts.
Jason
Also...get yourself a torque wrench...you shouldn't be breaking that many bolts.
Jason
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Broken extractor
At this point your only option is to go out to a good machine shop supply center and purchase a carbide drill, preferably left handed.. When it cuts through the busted extractor hopefully it will catch and twist the busted stud out of the tapped hole in manifold.. Another method that works is to use a carbide burr on the end of a straight air grinder, but be ever so careful as this thing will get away from you in a hurry...Hope this works .....
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From: 3rd Rock
Originally Posted by AseTim
Hit it with a center punch, run a 1/8" drill bit about 1/2" down a try pulling it out with a bolt extrator. (you will probably end up having to drill it out completely and using helicoil).
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Joined: Jun 2005
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Navflyer...hope you're on the road by now. A broken tap or easy out is some hard steel.I would try to break the piece apart with a small chisel...If that would not work, and you have pushed hard? on the colbalt bit; you have probably work hardened the pieces. Without a mig welder for the 5/16 bolt, I would have to heat the stud repeatly, allowing it to cool each time, to soften the steel...I just replaced my thermo housing because of a leak....the aluminium looked really pitted from the coolant/ alum/ cast iron reactions...the machined iron replacment housing should be better.. ok, now the steel is softened, from the heating, try the chipping or drilling . It is easy to push too hard and melt the bit...best luck...
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Freshman User
Joined: Sep 2002
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From: Norfolk USA
Ironworkingman, you got it right on. I just borrowed a mig welder, and have a nut for what is left of the stud. Right now I cannot tell the difference between the stud and the extractor. I am workin the heat right now. You are the first to recomend to heat the stud. Everyone else is saying to heat the manifold. The alumuminum is expected to expand before the steel bolt will soften up. I am all ears though.
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Freshman User
Joined: Sep 2002
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From: Norfolk USA
Well I gave in, and opted to change the intake manifold. I managed to get a weld on that stud, but it broke off another three threads off and made it even deeper. I got everything off and will start installing in the morning. I broke 2 more bolts in the intake manifold, (go figure) right up front. Why does this keep hapening and what can I do to prevent this? By the way, does anyone know the torques on the upper and lower intake manifolds? I got some antiseize, I hope it will help.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 5,377
Likes: 2
From: Elkhart IN
well, like you said, antiseize, and dont use the really cheap stuff, you get wat you pay for. also, torque wrench, most people, just "that feels almosst tight enough." thats may get you by, but will bite you in the butt.