Ignition switch revisited
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Joined: Feb 2005
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From: Orange, CT
Ignition switch revisited
OK, so I read the posts and searched the archives, and deduced that to remove the tumbler in my '66 switch, I need to turn to ACC, put a little pin in the little hole, and turn the key further counter-clockwise to remove.
But how do you re-install it?
I bought a new switch assembly, bezel, AND tumbler (cylinder) with keys, but I'll be damned if I can figure out how the cylinder INSTALLS in the switch with the two pieces in my hands. I've fumbled with it for well over an hour with no luck.
Looking at the cylinder, with the key in the OFF position, you can stick a pin thru the pinhole without really contacting anything behind it. But if you turn the key to the ACC position, the pinhole gets "blocked" by a feature of the cylinder; is there a spring or release or something in the face of this feature that the pin-thru-the-pinhole releases to allow something to happen?
I WOULD go out and stick a pin in the pinhole of my truck's cylinder to remove it to see how it all goes together, but I'm afraid I'll be hitchhiking home if I do. I OUGHT to be able to assemble the new switch on the bench first.
Help!
But how do you re-install it?
I bought a new switch assembly, bezel, AND tumbler (cylinder) with keys, but I'll be damned if I can figure out how the cylinder INSTALLS in the switch with the two pieces in my hands. I've fumbled with it for well over an hour with no luck.
Looking at the cylinder, with the key in the OFF position, you can stick a pin thru the pinhole without really contacting anything behind it. But if you turn the key to the ACC position, the pinhole gets "blocked" by a feature of the cylinder; is there a spring or release or something in the face of this feature that the pin-thru-the-pinhole releases to allow something to happen?
I WOULD go out and stick a pin in the pinhole of my truck's cylinder to remove it to see how it all goes together, but I'm afraid I'll be hitchhiking home if I do. I OUGHT to be able to assemble the new switch on the bench first.
Help!
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 8,062
Likes: 35
From: Central Oregon
Turn the key to where it is "blocked" and use your pin to push in on the "feature", it is the release and the cylinder will turn more. The switch, turn it with a small screw driver to the acc position, the blade on the end of the cylinder should line up with the slot in the switch. Put cylinder with keys in into the switch and turn clock wise and it will lock into place.
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Joined: Feb 2005
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From: Orange, CT
Yes, I did!
I actually had to turn the slot in the switch counter-clockwise BEYOND the ACC position, do the same to the cylinder (after using a paper clip in the hole), and it DID pop in. It would NOT go without turning both beyond ACC.
Next problem:
The existing switch WILL NOT come out of the dash, the bezel seems fused to the switch, and I've buggered the bezel up royally with vise grips trying to turn it.
I think I'll have to take a cutting wheel and cut the bezel away to get the switch out.
Another day!
I actually had to turn the slot in the switch counter-clockwise BEYOND the ACC position, do the same to the cylinder (after using a paper clip in the hole), and it DID pop in. It would NOT go without turning both beyond ACC.
Next problem:
The existing switch WILL NOT come out of the dash, the bezel seems fused to the switch, and I've buggered the bezel up royally with vise grips trying to turn it.
I think I'll have to take a cutting wheel and cut the bezel away to get the switch out.
Another day!
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More Turbo
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 560
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From: Orange, CT
Oh, HO... I've done that until my face was blue. I bought a new switch and cylinder, and with the help of the guys in this forum I figured out the whole assembly on my kitchen table. It just won't work in my truck, like I said, the bezel and switch body seem fused.
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Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 1999
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From: Creedmoor, North Carolina
The bezel has a collar on it. There are notches in the dash sheetmetal that holds it straight. There is also two apposing slots in the collar that start straight and then turn 90º. The lock itself has a spring that fits between it and the back of the dash. It has two pins that fit into the slots on the bezel.
I have found some locks that did not want to give up the ghost and were comfy staying put. You must push (hard) from both directions to release catch.
First the lock tumbler has to be removed.
Second while holding the bezel the lock has to be pushed hard towards the bezel first releasing it and then turned counter closkwise to the straight part of the slot and then it should pop out in your hands.
Warning: It the tumbler is not removed first, the lock will not release.
John
I have found some locks that did not want to give up the ghost and were comfy staying put. You must push (hard) from both directions to release catch.
First the lock tumbler has to be removed.
Second while holding the bezel the lock has to be pushed hard towards the bezel first releasing it and then turned counter closkwise to the straight part of the slot and then it should pop out in your hands.
Warning: It the tumbler is not removed first, the lock will not release.
John
Senior User
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 207
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From: Burkburnett, Texas
I found that it is easier to remove the switch and bezel if you remove the dash panel; this way you have more room and can get you hands on the switch. Careful--those bezels are not cheap. I was so frustrated with my son's that I eventually broke the bezel and one of the teats off the ignition switch. I also found that turning the whole switch assy makes it a little easier to remove.
vernon
vernon
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