Another "break-in" question (changing oil)
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Senior User
Joined: Feb 2003
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From: Huntsville
Another "break-in" question (changing oil)
I've had my 05 for 1 1/2 weeks and I already have 1440 miles. I read all of the info regarding break-in procedures and I was able to put about 600 city/highway miles on the truck before we drove 350 interstate miles (each way) for the long July 4th weekend. During the past week, I've checked the oil every other fill-up and the oil looks brand new.
My question is this: Should I change the oil now that I have almost 1500 miles on a new motor (to get rid of any potential trash from the break in)? I bought 4 gallons of Rottela synthetic last night (knowing that it will take about 13.5 quarts) and I'm not sure if I should do it now or wait till 2000, 3000, or 5000 miles before I change the oil. Thanks in advance!
My question is this: Should I change the oil now that I have almost 1500 miles on a new motor (to get rid of any potential trash from the break in)? I bought 4 gallons of Rottela synthetic last night (knowing that it will take about 13.5 quarts) and I'm not sure if I should do it now or wait till 2000, 3000, or 5000 miles before I change the oil. Thanks in advance!
Junior User
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 71
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From: Cincinnati, Ohio
Mike,
IMO, you should wait to change to synthetic. Search on synthetic here and you'll find that most suggest about 10,000 miles prior to change over. As far as changing at 1500 for breakin issues, I aggree and that is what I did (about 1000 for my 05 PSD).
Suggest you get the Fumoto 'nippled' drain valve and remember that your first change will have 14+ quarts of oil (i.e. large drain pan). After installing the Fumoto valve, capacity of the pan issue is abated.
You can get oil filters from Oilguard (I got a case) on this site (use the reference for FTE and get a discount, I forgot to do that.....my bad). I also got the bypass oil filter system from them (installing at next change).
Congradulations on your new truck.
Pete
IMO, you should wait to change to synthetic. Search on synthetic here and you'll find that most suggest about 10,000 miles prior to change over. As far as changing at 1500 for breakin issues, I aggree and that is what I did (about 1000 for my 05 PSD).
Suggest you get the Fumoto 'nippled' drain valve and remember that your first change will have 14+ quarts of oil (i.e. large drain pan). After installing the Fumoto valve, capacity of the pan issue is abated.
You can get oil filters from Oilguard (I got a case) on this site (use the reference for FTE and get a discount, I forgot to do that.....my bad). I also got the bypass oil filter system from them (installing at next change).
Congradulations on your new truck.
Pete
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 26,007
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From: Brentwood,CA
i would change it. but use a regular dino oil like rotella at least until it gets about 10,000 on it then you can switch over.but keep in mind the 5w40 rotella is not a real synthetic oil. i would save the cash and use regular 15w40 or 10w30 HDEO and you will get equal results to a synthetic. most large truck fleets only use either rotella t 15w40 or delo and they go a milion miles no problems.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 1,019
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From: Fountain Valley
I changed mine at 1000 then at the dealer for a free one at 4000. Next a 8500 and just completed the last one at 13,500. No problems at all. I use Stanadyne in every tank of fuel. Truck is 18 months old. If I was a complainer I would tell them about the very minor surging at idle on occaision but I like the original factory flash so I'll leave it like it is. Typical milage is over 15 in town 17/18 with some freeway and a best of 20 in over 5000 feet driving at 60/65 empty.....Still happy and good luck....
Posting Guru
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,016
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From: Lynden, WA.
First oil change time is a discussion that'll go on forever. Those of us that have built our own engines, in other than 'clean room' environments, and are old school, will change the oil at the 1000-1500 mile mark. That's just to get the assembly lube and any possibilities of metal fragments from machining out of the system. Today's engines are assembled in much cleaner environments, but there's still chance of contamination of the lubricating system. Changing the oil that soon certainly isn't because the viscosity of the oil is degraded. Yup, it still looks new. But sometime before 2000 miles is a good time to flush. Use good dino oil rated for the Diesel. I use Delo400. It was formulated just for Diesel engines years ago. It rivals many synthetics for it's lubricity. As do Shell Rotella T and others.
I know, it sounds like a waste, but yes, you should change your oil soon. If it really looks good, bottle it and use it in your lawnmower.
Yes, wait a bit to switch to synthetic -if that's your intention.
I know, it sounds like a waste, but yes, you should change your oil soon. If it really looks good, bottle it and use it in your lawnmower.
Yes, wait a bit to switch to synthetic -if that's your intention.
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Senior User
Joined: Feb 2003
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From: Huntsville
I appreciate everyone's guidance on this so it looks like I'm heading out to buy some dino oil and change it tonight. The simpliest way to look at it "you can pay me now or pay me later". With an expensive diesel motor, oil is the cheapest form of insurance money can buy.
J of T......I would get a pretty good whipping if I put "like new" oil in our brand new z-turn mower. We've never owned a new mower so I'll need to keep this one running for about 50 years to get my money's worth! In all seriousness, the z-turn mower is great to have because its cut our mowing time from 2 to 1 hour!!!
J of T......I would get a pretty good whipping if I put "like new" oil in our brand new z-turn mower. We've never owned a new mower so I'll need to keep this one running for about 50 years to get my money's worth! In all seriousness, the z-turn mower is great to have because its cut our mowing time from 2 to 1 hour!!!
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Cargo Master
Joined: Jun 2003
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From: Carlsbad, California
I like nipples as much as the next guy 
but decided to go with the regular version of the Fumoto valve as did my father-inlaw.
Neither of us planned on attaching a tube to the nipple for purposes of draining into a container and after talking with the Fumoto rep decided we go with the non-nipple version for the increased flow rate.
You can still control the flow from full down to a single drop at a time (and of course stopped) if desired, btw so it isn't too hard to drain oil back into a container positioned properly under the vehicle.
but decided to go with the regular version of the Fumoto valve as did my father-inlaw.Neither of us planned on attaching a tube to the nipple for purposes of draining into a container and after talking with the Fumoto rep decided we go with the non-nipple version for the increased flow rate.
You can still control the flow from full down to a single drop at a time (and of course stopped) if desired, btw so it isn't too hard to drain oil back into a container positioned properly under the vehicle.
Originally Posted by 1wheel
. . .Suggest you get the Fumoto 'nippled' drain valve and remember that your first change will have 14+ quarts of oil (i.e. large drain pan). After installing the Fumoto valve, capacity of the pan issue is abated. . .
Guest
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 7,988
Likes: 55
From: north west new jersey
good luck with that new machine.
the gang is giving good advise. change it now to get the left over machineing fragments out. add the bypass filter and the valve to make things easier.
on my own family psd's we changed at 1k, 3k 5k and then every 5k with the shell 15w40 dyno and have one that has 250k on on the clock. read tims tech notes at the top they have a lot of great info to help you from every one.
again best of luck.
the gang is giving good advise. change it now to get the left over machineing fragments out. add the bypass filter and the valve to make things easier.
on my own family psd's we changed at 1k, 3k 5k and then every 5k with the shell 15w40 dyno and have one that has 250k on on the clock. read tims tech notes at the top they have a lot of great info to help you from every one.
again best of luck.
Elder User
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 586
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From: Schwenksville,Pa
Congrats on the new truck! I changed my oil and filters at 1000, 5000 and 10,000 using dino 15w-40, installed Fumoto w/o nipple and Oilguard bypass at 1000, did Blackstone oil analysis at 5000 and 10,000, use Power Service fuel conditioner at each fillup and have had no problems with anything! (other than getting rear ended 2 weeks ago).
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2004
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Agree that you should change now. I run synthetic because it cokes at a much higher temp than dino. With these turbo's running so hot I think it is extra insurance & I don't remember to let it cool down every time I run it hard. Might need to get a turbo saver. Also if you use a pure syn you are not depleting the worlds oil supplies.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 3,541
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From: Weatherford Texas.
[QUOTE=GT350Mike]I've had my 05 for 1 1/2 weeks and I already have 1440 miles. I read all of the info regarding break-in procedures and I was able to put about 600 city/highway miles on the truck before we drove 350 interstate miles (each way) for the long July 4th weekend. During the past week, I've checked the oil every other fill-up and the oil looks brand new.
Last edited by wb6anp; Jul 6, 2005 at 11:20 PM.