rusty tools
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Joined: Jun 2005
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rusty tools
I have several tools (sockets, screwdrivers) that have quite a bit of rust on them. They were my Father's so I don't want to throw them away. Any suggestions on getting them clean again? I have tried naval jelly but that didn't work very well.
Thanks
Thanks
Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 4,004
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From: North of Boston MA
Wire brush the loose rust off and try soaking them in kerosene or penetrating oil. Or, unless they have moving parts like ratchets or pliers or something, leave them rusty, gives them character.
My parents just moved out of their home of 60 or so years so I acquired a basement full of tools, so I know how you feel. I took everything, even the ones I know I'll never use. One day I'll give them to my son I guess.
My parents just moved out of their home of 60 or so years so I acquired a basement full of tools, so I know how you feel. I took everything, even the ones I know I'll never use. One day I'll give them to my son I guess.
Postmaster
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 3,439
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From: Spokane WA
Originally Posted by bluffdalian
I have several tools (sockets, screwdrivers) that have quite a bit of rust on them. They were my Father's so I don't want to throw them away. Any suggestions on getting them clean again? I have tried naval jelly but that didn't work very well.
Thanks
Thanks
green scratch pads and WD-40 works for light rust.
wire brush and oil for heavier rust.
Elder User
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 941
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This would be a perfect application for electrolytic derusting. Get a plastic bucket, some lye from the grocery store, a chunk of rebar, and your battey charger. Fill the bucket with water, toss in a few tablespoons of lye, attach the tool to the negative lead, the positive lead to the rebar. Dunk the tool and the rebar into the bucket. Keep them separated from each other by a couple of inches. Flip the battery charger on to 12 volts, low charge (1 or 2 amps). Let the whole works sit overnight.
You can read more about this here:
http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/ru..._derusting.htm
You can read more about this here:
http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/ru..._derusting.htm
Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 4,004
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From: North of Boston MA
Originally Posted by beeboy
I have done the electrolysis method, it works well. I used Arm & Hammer "Super Washing Soda" in the solution. Just make sure you got the positive and negative correct!
Since I have a bunch of rusty stuff around the house I guess I am going to have to try. Not sure where I can get lye around here though.....
Seriously, great tip. Never heard of this method before despite all the darned chemistry classes I was forced to endure.
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Elder User
Joined: Sep 2004
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If you hook it up backwards, steel gets etched away from the tool, and any rust on the "sacrificial" piece of rebar gets cleaned up. Probably not what you had in mind.
If the method is working, you will see fine bubbles emerging from both parts and the rust on the tool gets turned black. Iron ions from the sacrificial electrode get reacted with rust Fe(2)O(3) to turn it into black magnetite Fe(3) O(4) or into black elemental iron (Fe). Oxygen ions are driven off the rusty part, helping to reduce the Fe(2)O(3) to a lower oxidation number.
You will need to wipe off the black deposits after a while, if the surface started out really rusted. The deposits won't be difficult to remove -- a light rub with a Scotch-Brite pad will do it.
You will start to see significant results after an hour or so. Leaving it overnight is only necessary on a really rusty or really big piece.
Here is another good reference site:
http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/andyspatch/rust.htm
If the method is working, you will see fine bubbles emerging from both parts and the rust on the tool gets turned black. Iron ions from the sacrificial electrode get reacted with rust Fe(2)O(3) to turn it into black magnetite Fe(3) O(4) or into black elemental iron (Fe). Oxygen ions are driven off the rusty part, helping to reduce the Fe(2)O(3) to a lower oxidation number.
You will need to wipe off the black deposits after a while, if the surface started out really rusted. The deposits won't be difficult to remove -- a light rub with a Scotch-Brite pad will do it.
You will start to see significant results after an hour or so. Leaving it overnight is only necessary on a really rusty or really big piece.
Here is another good reference site:
http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/andyspatch/rust.htm
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Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 4,004
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From: North of Boston MA
Originally Posted by fefarms
If the method is working, you will see fine bubbles emerging from both parts and the rust on the tool gets turned black. Iron ions from the sacrificial electrode get reacted with rust Fe(2)O(3) to turn it into black magnetite Fe(3) O(4) or into black elemental iron (Fe). Oxygen ions are driven off the rusty part, helping to reduce the Fe(2)O(3) to a lower oxidation number.
Seriously though, I deal way to much with cathodic reactions. You should see what happens to railroad tracks embedded in asphalt, using 600 VDC power, negative return through the rail and tons of salt dumped on in the winter. Our rail becomes the sacrificial anode. The rail is gone within 10 years.
Thanks for the chem lesson - interesting stuff.
Postmaster
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 4,191
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From: WA
Originally Posted by Nitramjr
Now you have me very curious as to what happens if I wire this contraption bass-ackwards.
Since I have a bunch of rusty stuff around the house I guess I am going to have to try. Not sure where I can get lye around here though.....
Seriously, great tip. Never heard of this method before despite all the darned chemistry classes I was forced to endure.
Since I have a bunch of rusty stuff around the house I guess I am going to have to try. Not sure where I can get lye around here though.....
Seriously, great tip. Never heard of this method before despite all the darned chemistry classes I was forced to endure.
Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 3,587
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From: Virginia Beach
I ran 6 amps through a baking soda solution. Has ran for 48 hours, I just flipped my little test object (heavily corroded shock tower). The side in solution is nearly clean as new Niffty trick, though time consuming.
Niffty trick, though time consuming.
The baking soda is working fine for me so far, and it was only 65 cents