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I definately checked the detergent aisle before I went and asked the kid at the front desk. They had Borax, and Colgate "Octagon Soap". . . no washing soda. O well, what I got works. To bad it is really slow
I use Red Devil lye for electrolytic de-rusting. You can buy it in almost any supermarket -- it's in the aisle with the drain cleaners (e.g. Drano).
Lye is sodium hydroxide. NaOH
Washing soda is Sodium Carbonate Na(2)CO(3)
Baking soda is Sodium BiCaronate NaHCO(3)
Lye is more hazardous to handle than washing soda or baking soda. But you don't need all that much -- maybe half a cup in a bucket full of water. The resulting solution is dilute enough that you can stick your hand in it -- though Safety Sam reminds us that it is better to wear rubber gloves and some form of eye (splash) protection.
Lye plus hot water in a plastic tub makes a reasonably effective "hot tank" for degreasing parts. That's why I tend to have a can of it sitting around.
I used this method today an some old Ford script wrenches and it really worked, I used some lye and a 6 amp charger I didnt have a 2 amp but it worked great, thanks for the tips ......Harry
So, you guys that are using the rebar, or other chunk of metal, as the sacrificial anode (SA), are you rotating the tool very often? (I mean rotating the part already in the solution, not flipping it to get the other end in there.) The article in the link said that if the SA doesn't surround the tool then only the side facing the SA it cleaned.
To keep from having to rotate very often, I would bet you could make a pretty cool cleaning station by cutting up a steel bucket (if you can find one) and using that as the SA. Just slide it into the plastic bucket, put your tool inside it, and hook up the leads. Or you could get some steel plate and bend it to fit inside the plastic bucket.
I have a set of box wrenches that were mildly rusted. I made a soaking chamber with 2" PVC and used muriatic acid. It only took 10 minutes per wrench to clean them nicely. Muriatic acid is very nasty stuff, so a lot of care is needed when using; gloves, outdoor use only, etc.
yeah, I rotated my parts in the solution. The side closest to the SA gets most of the action.
I did see an article that did it in a bucket, with metal on all the sides.
I use Red Devil lye for electrolytic de-rusting. You can buy it in almost any supermarket -- it's in the aisle with the drain cleaners (e.g. Drano).
I don't know that you can buy lye here in The People's Republic of Massachusetts. I have never seen it in the grocery store or even in the Home Improvement Stores. I may go look today. Might have to settle for a somewhat weaker caustic. Drain cleaner may have a diluted NaOH in it.
Someone mentioned using muriatic acid - how does that reaction work with acid being at the opposite end of the pH scale from the lye? Does it even matter or do you just need something that will make an electrolytic solution? If that were the case, would rock salt create the same reaction? Got plenty of that around here...
Muriatic acid is hydrochloric acid, HCl. It reacts with iron oxide. Basically dissolves it. We used it quite a bit where I used to work. Muriatic is pretty dilute HCl, not nearly as strong as the industrial grade we used, so it's easier to work with but will take longer to do anything.
Nitramjr, I don't think he was using the muriatic acid in the electrolysis process, just soaking the tools in acid to eat the rust away. Frank can correct me if I'm wrong.
Nitramjr, I don't think he was using the muriatic acid in the electrolysis process, just soaking the tools in acid to eat the rust away. Frank can correct me if I'm wrong.
You are probably right about that. I have to quit reading these posts when I am half alseep.
Still curious as to whether other electrolytic solutions besides caustics will work. Especially since I have no lye and about 300 pounds of rock salt in the garage. Maybe I will just "conduct" an experiment. i've got plenty of rusty tools......
I used the lye and the battery charger last night and was generally pleased with the results. However, the tool is now a dull grey instead of shiny silver. Would another "dose" in the solution work? I've buffed it, scrubbed it, and steel wooled it to try to get the grey off, but to no end.
Also, in the vein of American impatience, would it work faster with more electricity (evil laugh!)?
Ever tried "Ospho" (active ingredient ortho-phosphoric acid)? Wire brush to remove heavy deposits first, then paint on. Turns rust to iron phosphate, a black protective coating. It will also brighten dull aluminum running boards, tool boxes and the like but should be diluted. "Ospho" used to be available a hardware stores, but I haven't tried to buy any in a long time.
A lot of things are inconvenient to wire brush, but pretty easy to hold up to the wire wheel of the bench grinder. Takes the bulk of the rust and gunk off in a matter of a minute or two. Probably reduce your electrolysis soak time by quite a bit.
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