4x4 rotating while in 2WD
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Mike, did you replace the dust seal on the back of the knuckle? Or was it still intact?
Rich, good advice about the dust seal. Do you have ESOF? Not that it matters about the axles turning, I think...
Rich, good advice about the dust seal. Do you have ESOF? Not that it matters about the axles turning, I think...
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From: The Republic of Texas
No,
I did not replace the seal. When the pads wear out, I'll pull both hubs off, grease the needle bearing and replace the dust seals.
The bearing was a Federal Mogul B-2110 if anyone else needs it.
Mike
I did not replace the seal. When the pads wear out, I'll pull both hubs off, grease the needle bearing and replace the dust seals.
The bearing was a Federal Mogul B-2110 if anyone else needs it.
Mike
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I would not rule out bad Ford locking hubs as the culprit for axles turning when they shouldn't. Sometimes my '05 hubs will not unlock even when manually locking and unlocking. I never use the Auto feature. Occcasionally I have to jack an axle to take weight off a hub before I can get it unlocked. I'm not even going to bother with warranty issues with these hubs. Everyone knows Ford locking hubs are crap. My last Ford truck has the same problem. Personally, I am going to throw away the Ford hubs and bolt on a set of Warns.
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Sorry to hear that you've had trouble with the auto locking hubs. Other than a vacuum line being off when it was bought used, mine have worked great. The 4WD is used about twice a month, and works every time.
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Again, the original author of this thread stated the axles turned SLOWLY - that is not an ESOF lock-up problem, that's just plain small amounts of drag, like thick grease, in the hubs. In a way, it means the front diff and u-joints are good because they move with so little effort...
Just trying to keep everyone from running off in different directions and confusing the issue
Just trying to keep everyone from running off in different directions and confusing the issue
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Mike, I also had the same problem you are having. I removed the hub assy and found I had contamination in the roller bearings from water and dirt. You can replace just the roller bearings only if your primary bearing is ok. It costs around 15 dollars and it is easily punched out from the reverse side. I also greased the outer o ring with a boat axle grease to seal out any water. Inspect the shaft for any wear, regrease or replace the bearing and reassemble. good luck.
Mike
Mike
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Hello mike ,read your posts on replacing bearings in the front hubs on your truck, which bearing did you replace? The inner needle bearing inside the spindle or the large needle bearing which ford says is nonserviceable on the back of the spindle surrounded by the four mounting studs to the steering knuckle, sorry i am little confused. thanks
Last edited by Langford Ford; Jul 14, 2005 at 12:32 PM.
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Sorry it took me so long to get back to ya. I was refering to the little roller bearing in the middle that the shaft goes through. Even though I have heavy duty warns, the drivers side bearing is making that dreaded grind @ 46 MPH. Hope this helps.
Mike
Mike
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From: The Republic of Texas
Originally Posted by Langford Ford
Hello mike ,read your posts on replacing bearings in the front hubs on your truck, which bearing did you replace? The inner needle bearing inside the spindle or the large needle bearing which ford says is nonserviceable on the back of the spindle surrounded by the four mounting studs to the steering knuckle, sorry i am little confused. thanks
Mike
Last edited by Mike Johnston; Jul 14, 2005 at 08:28 PM.
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Removed my hubs the other day, one was full of water!
Now I need a B-2110 bearing
Come to find out, they are very commonly used for Dana 44 inner spindle bearings.
I wonder if even the Dana 60 front end uses the B-2110 bearing? If so, doesn't that mean the axles are really Dana 44 axles (or at least the same diameter)?
Now I need a B-2110 bearing
Come to find out, they are very commonly used for Dana 44 inner spindle bearings.
I wonder if even the Dana 60 front end uses the B-2110 bearing? If so, doesn't that mean the axles are really Dana 44 axles (or at least the same diameter)?
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My '02 F-250 was doing the same thing as Mike Johnston's and I even took the locking hubs out to eliminate the chance of them trying to lock. It still makes the vibration that goes away when I switch the transfer case in. My question is, Will making a 6 hour trip going speeds of 70 and 80 MPH with 1 hub locked in, cause a bearing failure?
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This is a VERY old thread - like three years
You shouldn't have a problem with locking one hub for a while... it won't hurt anything.
The needle bearings we were talking about are NOT turning when the hubs are locked, they ARE turning when the hubs are UNLOCKED.
Reach around back of the wheel and try to turn the u-joint by hand with the hubs unlocked. It should be somewhat hard to get moving, but then be smooth and not gritty or ratchety. I think you have a bad needle bearing.
You shouldn't have a problem with locking one hub for a while... it won't hurt anything.
The needle bearings we were talking about are NOT turning when the hubs are locked, they ARE turning when the hubs are UNLOCKED.
Reach around back of the wheel and try to turn the u-joint by hand with the hubs unlocked. It should be somewhat hard to get moving, but then be smooth and not gritty or ratchety. I think you have a bad needle bearing.