Really an ameter (ammeter means 'a minute' or did you intend amp meter)? Either way a minute or two is all you will actually spend in the test. The rest of the time will be preparation and clean up. To utilize an amp meter you will need to apply a controlled power and then and controlled load on the coax to evaluate loss.

Sorry for the rant, I just get a little miffed when a prospective DIY'er is advised to back off and let the professionals handle it.

If you want to learn some basics in electronics then Radio Shack sells some books that will lead you. There are better books at better places, but you get what you pay for most of the time.

My advice is the same as already been given. Short out one side of the cable run and test for continuity. Should be near zero ohms or dead short. Remove the short and it should read infinite ohms or complete open. Do not have splitters in the test segment or your readings will not be as described. You can disconnect any splitters and test the cable runs accordingly. These tests require no more power than what the ohmmeter supplies. Test the splitters is easiest by swapping them out if the cables are good and you have problems with them in.
Take note that long cable runs may require a signal amplifier to get a strong RF level at the distant end once you start hooking them up to your TV. If splitters are used in your system, then the aggregate length of the cable is added to all segments and if you do not terminate the open runs then they act an antenna and may cause interference.

 

I meant a meter. A mispell.

Now back to the problem. Unless your house is more than 100 feet long, or the drop from the pole to your house is more than 150', then there is no need for a signal amp. It is absolutly bull**** that a signal amp will improve p/q if the strength is within 15 to -15DbMv. Now, if you are outside these readings, then you have a problem. Either the drop is of the wrong size ( RG6 when you need RG11) ,the wiring in your house is the old 59, or you have a lack of maintainence issue. It could be something else, but these are the most common. If you need a signal amp, then basically you are just "band-aiding" the problem. Find out why your signal levels are what they are. That is like having an oil leak, and using JB Weld to stop it. I give the link to the meter on Ebay, because that is what I feel is the absolute minimum if you want to DIY.


But, if you dont know the DbMV losses for the fittings, 2,3,4,5 way splitters, barrels, and loss per foor of RG6 and RG11, and how to configure them optimally in your application, then I'll say it again: LEAVE IT TO THE PRO's.

Just like if you don't know Ohm's Law, you shouldn't be messing with your home wiring.