Broke Down And Bought A Dodge
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From: Gillette, WY
Broke Down And Bought A Dodge
Hmmm....
I thought it was a good thing because No Mopar Powertrain/Drivetrain. I have a 5.9 12 Valve Cummins, New Venture (Previously New Process) NV4500, Dana 60 Front, Dana 80 Rear. Whoops Is A Driveline Included In Drivetrain???? One Part. Don't Get Picky and Say Wiring Harness... Thats not fair. Well it's a 1997 Dodge Ram 3500. It has the awesome Hydroboost system which I don't think any of the big three have in 1 ton chassis. The Cummins is an allright engine except for the fact it ins't a wastegated or VGT. Turbo lag in every gear sucks. Well time for powershifting. I hate Coil Springs. The make the ride too woman like. Well Thought I'd let you guys know that I am still a Ford Fan in Dodge Skin... LOL
I thought it was a good thing because No Mopar Powertrain/Drivetrain. I have a 5.9 12 Valve Cummins, New Venture (Previously New Process) NV4500, Dana 60 Front, Dana 80 Rear. Whoops Is A Driveline Included In Drivetrain???? One Part. Don't Get Picky and Say Wiring Harness... Thats not fair. Well it's a 1997 Dodge Ram 3500. It has the awesome Hydroboost system which I don't think any of the big three have in 1 ton chassis. The Cummins is an allright engine except for the fact it ins't a wastegated or VGT. Turbo lag in every gear sucks. Well time for powershifting. I hate Coil Springs. The make the ride too woman like. Well Thought I'd let you guys know that I am still a Ford Fan in Dodge Skin... LOL
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Joined: Jun 2002
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From: Atlanta GA
> a good thing because No Mopar Powertrain/Drivetrain
Well, not 100% true.
If you did a search here for "Dodge + fuel" or at least "Dodge" you would have seen a few posts from various people complaining about fuel pump injector problems and people being warned about not to buy the 1997-1999 models (from me). Guess it is too late for that now ;-)
1997-1999 (believe it is that year range) the fuel injector pump is sourced only from Dodge (basically an injector pump Dodge puts its OEM electronics on) and a rebuilt cost $1900+. A new one is over $3,000. When you call a Dodge parts department and ask how much for a rebuilt and he laughes at you you know you are in trouble... When it goes bad it probably will not even throw a code related to the pump. Luckily they usually do not die until after 200k miles.
I would change the fuel filter at a min. every 20K or so and I would change it right NOW if I were you. It is pretty easy, just follow the Haynes on bleeding and such.
Whatever you do, never use ether to start this truck (read the threads here). As with ANY diesel you buy, you should change the coolant and add a filter if someone has not done so already. Buy a Haynes repair manual, unlike most, it does break down the diesel engines stuff by various year ranges and I have found it worth the $16.
One thing I have noticed about these trucks is if you have excessive cranking to get the vehicle started and it does not fire right up when you turn the key, here is what you should do. Wait until both the WAIT and CHECK ENGINE light go off, count to five, and then start the truck. If the check engine light does not go off, wait five seconds after the WAIT light does. Why that works, I do not know, I suspect maybe a worn heater grid. Just a trick I learned.
If you have a DRW then go out and buy a flarenut crowsfoot wrench set that contains either a 22 mm or 7/8 socket. It will save a lot of time when changing rotors. You will need the hub nut. I think it is 1 7/16 or something like that. What I did is buy the big mm 3/4 socket set from Harbor Freight for $50 so I could do brake and hub jobs. I think the socket size you need from the set is 44 mm, I posted the info in the 4x4 forum a few months ago.
Excellent choice on the manual! The automatics are weak (as in they fail early) on these trucks and it really lowers the cost of ownership by having the manual transmission.
Even though the brake hoses and calipers are very easy and inexpensive to change in these trucks, I would bleed all the brakes to guarantee longer service life.
The coil spring set up is actually good, it makes a nice set of Michelin E rated tires last 60-80k miles. On my (former) boss's truck, he changed his automatic transmission more frequently then he did his tires
I have not seen any wiring problems (or computer) on that range (97-99) Dodge truck so I would consider that a non-issue and not worry about it. The only thing I have encountered is if you disable the doorlocks by pulling the fuse it also disables the automatic slack adjust so the seatbelt sticks in one position.
If you tow with the vehicle you will be very happy with it and your drivetrain combo, the truck pulls excellent.
Well, not 100% true.
If you did a search here for "Dodge + fuel" or at least "Dodge" you would have seen a few posts from various people complaining about fuel pump injector problems and people being warned about not to buy the 1997-1999 models (from me). Guess it is too late for that now ;-)
1997-1999 (believe it is that year range) the fuel injector pump is sourced only from Dodge (basically an injector pump Dodge puts its OEM electronics on) and a rebuilt cost $1900+. A new one is over $3,000. When you call a Dodge parts department and ask how much for a rebuilt and he laughes at you you know you are in trouble... When it goes bad it probably will not even throw a code related to the pump. Luckily they usually do not die until after 200k miles.
I would change the fuel filter at a min. every 20K or so and I would change it right NOW if I were you. It is pretty easy, just follow the Haynes on bleeding and such.
Whatever you do, never use ether to start this truck (read the threads here). As with ANY diesel you buy, you should change the coolant and add a filter if someone has not done so already. Buy a Haynes repair manual, unlike most, it does break down the diesel engines stuff by various year ranges and I have found it worth the $16.
One thing I have noticed about these trucks is if you have excessive cranking to get the vehicle started and it does not fire right up when you turn the key, here is what you should do. Wait until both the WAIT and CHECK ENGINE light go off, count to five, and then start the truck. If the check engine light does not go off, wait five seconds after the WAIT light does. Why that works, I do not know, I suspect maybe a worn heater grid. Just a trick I learned.
If you have a DRW then go out and buy a flarenut crowsfoot wrench set that contains either a 22 mm or 7/8 socket. It will save a lot of time when changing rotors. You will need the hub nut. I think it is 1 7/16 or something like that. What I did is buy the big mm 3/4 socket set from Harbor Freight for $50 so I could do brake and hub jobs. I think the socket size you need from the set is 44 mm, I posted the info in the 4x4 forum a few months ago.
Excellent choice on the manual! The automatics are weak (as in they fail early) on these trucks and it really lowers the cost of ownership by having the manual transmission.
Even though the brake hoses and calipers are very easy and inexpensive to change in these trucks, I would bleed all the brakes to guarantee longer service life.
The coil spring set up is actually good, it makes a nice set of Michelin E rated tires last 60-80k miles. On my (former) boss's truck, he changed his automatic transmission more frequently then he did his tires
I have not seen any wiring problems (or computer) on that range (97-99) Dodge truck so I would consider that a non-issue and not worry about it. The only thing I have encountered is if you disable the doorlocks by pulling the fuse it also disables the automatic slack adjust so the seatbelt sticks in one position.
If you tow with the vehicle you will be very happy with it and your drivetrain combo, the truck pulls excellent.
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From: Gillette, WY
Originally Posted by DT 466Man
No it will be, I bought a dodge, and the tranny blew up. But it's a hand shaker so i wouldn't worry. The front end is known for wearing out bushings and stuff.
DT
DT
Just Messing with you but It's the truth.
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Joined: Jun 2004
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From: Gillette, WY
Originally Posted by rebocardo
> a good thing because No Mopar Powertrain/Drivetrain
Well, not 100% true.
If you did a search here for "Dodge + fuel" or at least "Dodge" you would have seen a few posts from various people complaining about fuel pump injector problems and people being warned about not to buy the 1997-1999 models (from me). Guess it is too late for that now ;-)
1997-1999 (believe it is that year range) the fuel injector pump is sourced only from Dodge (basically an injector pump Dodge puts its OEM electronics on) and a rebuilt cost $1900+. A new one is over $3,000. When you call a Dodge parts department and ask how much for a rebuilt and he laughes at you you know you are in trouble... When it goes bad it probably will not even throw a code related to the pump. Luckily they usually do not die until after 200k miles.
I would change the fuel filter at a min. every 20K or so and I would change it right NOW if I were you. It is pretty easy, just follow the Haynes on bleeding and such.
Whatever you do, never use ether to start this truck (read the threads here). As with ANY diesel you buy, you should change the coolant and add a filter if someone has not done so already. Buy a Haynes repair manual, unlike most, it does break down the diesel engines stuff by various year ranges and I have found it worth the $16.
One thing I have noticed about these trucks is if you have excessive cranking to get the vehicle started and it does not fire right up when you turn the key, here is what you should do. Wait until both the WAIT and CHECK ENGINE light go off, count to five, and then start the truck. If the check engine light does not go off, wait five seconds after the WAIT light does. Why that works, I do not know, I suspect maybe a worn heater grid. Just a trick I learned.
If you have a DRW then go out and buy a flarenut crowsfoot wrench set that contains either a 22 mm or 7/8 socket. It will save a lot of time when changing rotors. You will need the hub nut. I think it is 1 7/16 or something like that. What I did is buy the big mm 3/4 socket set from Harbor Freight for $50 so I could do brake and hub jobs. I think the socket size you need from the set is 44 mm, I posted the info in the 4x4 forum a few months ago.
Excellent choice on the manual! The automatics are weak (as in they fail early) on these trucks and it really lowers the cost of ownership by having the manual transmission.
Even though the brake hoses and calipers are very easy and inexpensive to change in these trucks, I would bleed all the brakes to guarantee longer service life.
The coil spring set up is actually good, it makes a nice set of Michelin E rated tires last 60-80k miles. On my (former) boss's truck, he changed his automatic transmission more frequently then he did his tires
I have not seen any wiring problems (or computer) on that range (97-99) Dodge truck so I would consider that a non-issue and not worry about it. The only thing I have encountered is if you disable the doorlocks by pulling the fuse it also disables the automatic slack adjust so the seatbelt sticks in one position.
If you tow with the vehicle you will be very happy with it and your drivetrain combo, the truck pulls excellent.
Well, not 100% true.
If you did a search here for "Dodge + fuel" or at least "Dodge" you would have seen a few posts from various people complaining about fuel pump injector problems and people being warned about not to buy the 1997-1999 models (from me). Guess it is too late for that now ;-)
1997-1999 (believe it is that year range) the fuel injector pump is sourced only from Dodge (basically an injector pump Dodge puts its OEM electronics on) and a rebuilt cost $1900+. A new one is over $3,000. When you call a Dodge parts department and ask how much for a rebuilt and he laughes at you you know you are in trouble... When it goes bad it probably will not even throw a code related to the pump. Luckily they usually do not die until after 200k miles.
I would change the fuel filter at a min. every 20K or so and I would change it right NOW if I were you. It is pretty easy, just follow the Haynes on bleeding and such.
Whatever you do, never use ether to start this truck (read the threads here). As with ANY diesel you buy, you should change the coolant and add a filter if someone has not done so already. Buy a Haynes repair manual, unlike most, it does break down the diesel engines stuff by various year ranges and I have found it worth the $16.
One thing I have noticed about these trucks is if you have excessive cranking to get the vehicle started and it does not fire right up when you turn the key, here is what you should do. Wait until both the WAIT and CHECK ENGINE light go off, count to five, and then start the truck. If the check engine light does not go off, wait five seconds after the WAIT light does. Why that works, I do not know, I suspect maybe a worn heater grid. Just a trick I learned.
If you have a DRW then go out and buy a flarenut crowsfoot wrench set that contains either a 22 mm or 7/8 socket. It will save a lot of time when changing rotors. You will need the hub nut. I think it is 1 7/16 or something like that. What I did is buy the big mm 3/4 socket set from Harbor Freight for $50 so I could do brake and hub jobs. I think the socket size you need from the set is 44 mm, I posted the info in the 4x4 forum a few months ago.
Excellent choice on the manual! The automatics are weak (as in they fail early) on these trucks and it really lowers the cost of ownership by having the manual transmission.
Even though the brake hoses and calipers are very easy and inexpensive to change in these trucks, I would bleed all the brakes to guarantee longer service life.
The coil spring set up is actually good, it makes a nice set of Michelin E rated tires last 60-80k miles. On my (former) boss's truck, he changed his automatic transmission more frequently then he did his tires
I have not seen any wiring problems (or computer) on that range (97-99) Dodge truck so I would consider that a non-issue and not worry about it. The only thing I have encountered is if you disable the doorlocks by pulling the fuse it also disables the automatic slack adjust so the seatbelt sticks in one position.
If you tow with the vehicle you will be very happy with it and your drivetrain combo, the truck pulls excellent.
Yeah I know that Dodge derates their autos about 5K Lbs. I got that 1 7/8 socket in Crapsman set as I do alot on bigger diesels (Class 6-8). I got this truck for the power/drivetrain. I still dislike Dodge and hope Dodge brings down Mercedes with it. Cummins, New Venture, Dana can't beat them join them.... LOL
Kenneth
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From: Gillette, WY
Originally Posted by F2504x4
ConGrats Tim , the cummins is a good engine and we all know that you still have blue blood, it must have been a heck of a deal, post a link to a pic of it.
Thats actually 13.25K with the taxes and extras....
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 2,454
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From: Adams TN
I know the NV tranny's are good. I was just joking about the dodge auto's.
My mom's Ram just got out of the shop for warranty work. Had to put a new tranny in it. 75,000 miles and a 318 killed it???
Wonder how those auto boy's are holding up.
McGraw man you got it right. Sticks are the best. The only one my dad has ever owned just got out of the shop.
It's my mom's though. This is funny. He is so used to driving a stick. He hopped in it Pulled it down to 1st. And you know how the auto's have the long brake pedal. Well he took off when it was time to shift to 2nd he subconsiously rammed his left foot down and where the clutch would of been he caught the brake.
that was funny. since he was raised driving 3 on the tree. He drives a 5spd now.
But you got a good truck. It's a P7100 right?? 12V
So no electronics. Just keep an eye on the lift pump.
Something that cheap gives out and it will take the 1K plus injector pump out.
If i couldn't buy a ford. Like if there were no forsale in my area. I would jump on a 2nd Gen 1ton 4X4. Damn good trucks. Dodge stopped making good in 93'* exception through early 98 they had good diesels.
I gotta see this truck.
Is it a Cab& Chassie? or a pickup?
DT
My mom's Ram just got out of the shop for warranty work. Had to put a new tranny in it. 75,000 miles and a 318 killed it???
Wonder how those auto boy's are holding up.
McGraw man you got it right. Sticks are the best. The only one my dad has ever owned just got out of the shop.
It's my mom's though. This is funny. He is so used to driving a stick. He hopped in it Pulled it down to 1st. And you know how the auto's have the long brake pedal. Well he took off when it was time to shift to 2nd he subconsiously rammed his left foot down and where the clutch would of been he caught the brake.
that was funny. since he was raised driving 3 on the tree. He drives a 5spd now.
But you got a good truck. It's a P7100 right?? 12V
So no electronics. Just keep an eye on the lift pump.
Something that cheap gives out and it will take the 1K plus injector pump out.
If i couldn't buy a ford. Like if there were no forsale in my area. I would jump on a 2nd Gen 1ton 4X4. Damn good trucks. Dodge stopped making good in 93'* exception through early 98 they had good diesels.
I gotta see this truck.
Is it a Cab& Chassie? or a pickup?
DT
Senior User
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 495
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You bought a Dodge? The firing squad will meet at dawn tomorrow. Be there!! Just teasing. 
I heared that the brakes on Dodge Pickups don't grab too well. Other than that I would have been tempted to get one myself, well, almost. I've owned Dodge cars and alway's liked them. Never had a problem. But Chevys? Well...
Hope it work's out for you.
-1bigsteve (o:
I heared that the brakes on Dodge Pickups don't grab too well. Other than that I would have been tempted to get one myself, well, almost. I've owned Dodge cars and alway's liked them. Never had a problem. But Chevys? Well...
Hope it work's out for you.
-1bigsteve (o:
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 14,947
Likes: 6
From: Topsfield, MA
I've gotta say that I don't blame ya for buying what you bought. Having the cummins, NV, dana axles is a really nice combo. Plus the dodge has a decent suspension and can easily be upgraded. They built a sweet one on Extreme 4x4 (Spike TV).
Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 13,873
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From: Atlanta GA
> I heared that the brakes on Dodge Pickups don't grab too well.
Not to defend Dodge, but, that is not true. The brakes on Dodges work fine and are fairly beefy and long lasting. I know, I have changed a few sets on my boss's work truck and driven a few Dodges. On the above mentioned 3500 the rotors and pistons are hefty.
The ABS works fine too, unlike the few Chevies I have driven, nothing is scarier then being in a Chevy off-road in mud downhill with ABS. One of the scariest rides I had was in snow driving a Chevy FWD car, hit the brakes and you get what feels like no braking and you "glide" with no stopping.
Not to defend Dodge, but, that is not true. The brakes on Dodges work fine and are fairly beefy and long lasting. I know, I have changed a few sets on my boss's work truck and driven a few Dodges. On the above mentioned 3500 the rotors and pistons are hefty.
The ABS works fine too, unlike the few Chevies I have driven, nothing is scarier then being in a Chevy off-road in mud downhill with ABS. One of the scariest rides I had was in snow driving a Chevy FWD car, hit the brakes and you get what feels like no braking and you "glide" with no stopping.
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Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 677
Likes: 0
From: Shawnee, Ks
I had a 96 1500 4x4 5.9 auto and the brakes grab and work fine on the Dodge's but the peddle is alot softer, at least on the 1500's I have driven. I had one of the rare ones though, 140,000 miles on it when I just sold it, ZERO tranny problems. I could have made it on some Ripleys Beleive it or Not for trucks thing.
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Senior User
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 156
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From: Gillette, WY
Originally Posted by DT 466Man
I know the NV tranny's are good. I was just joking about the dodge auto's.
My mom's Ram just got out of the shop for warranty work. Had to put a new tranny in it. 75,000 miles and a 318 killed it???
Wonder how those auto boy's are holding up.
McGraw man you got it right. Sticks are the best. The only one my dad has ever owned just got out of the shop.
It's my mom's though. This is funny. He is so used to driving a stick. He hopped in it Pulled it down to 1st. And you know how the auto's have the long brake pedal. Well he took off when it was time to shift to 2nd he subconsiously rammed his left foot down and where the clutch would of been he caught the brake.
that was funny. since he was raised driving 3 on the tree. He drives a 5spd now.
But you got a good truck. It's a P7100 right?? 12V
So no electronics. Just keep an eye on the lift pump.
Something that cheap gives out and it will take the 1K plus injector pump out.
If i couldn't buy a ford. Like if there were no forsale in my area. I would jump on a 2nd Gen 1ton 4X4. Damn good trucks. Dodge stopped making good in 93'* exception through early 98 they had good diesels.
I gotta see this truck.
Is it a Cab& Chassie? or a pickup?
DT
My mom's Ram just got out of the shop for warranty work. Had to put a new tranny in it. 75,000 miles and a 318 killed it???
Wonder how those auto boy's are holding up.
McGraw man you got it right. Sticks are the best. The only one my dad has ever owned just got out of the shop.
It's my mom's though. This is funny. He is so used to driving a stick. He hopped in it Pulled it down to 1st. And you know how the auto's have the long brake pedal. Well he took off when it was time to shift to 2nd he subconsiously rammed his left foot down and where the clutch would of been he caught the brake.
that was funny. since he was raised driving 3 on the tree. He drives a 5spd now.
But you got a good truck. It's a P7100 right?? 12V
So no electronics. Just keep an eye on the lift pump.
Something that cheap gives out and it will take the 1K plus injector pump out.
If i couldn't buy a ford. Like if there were no forsale in my area. I would jump on a 2nd Gen 1ton 4X4. Damn good trucks. Dodge stopped making good in 93'* exception through early 98 they had good diesels.
I gotta see this truck.
Is it a Cab& Chassie? or a pickup?
DT