390 Wont Start
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390 Wont Start
I have a 390 in my 1969 F-250. It started and ran fine a year ago when it was parked. The lights, blinker and such all work but the motor wont turn over. I do not believe there is anything wrong with the starter as it is fairly new. Is there anything else that may be causing the motor to sit there and not do nothing when the key is turned?
Thanks,
Rick
Thanks,
Rick
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From: UTI student
A bad solanoid (sp?) would do it. Turn the key to the run position. Then hop out and go under the hood. Take an old screw driver and touch the post on the solinoid that has the + battery cable to the small post next to it. if the truck tries to start then you have a bad solinoid. Try that and let us know what happens.
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From: Colville, Washington
Originally Posted by hatemakings/n
A bad solanoid (sp?) would do it. Turn the key to the run position. Then hop out and go under the hood. Take an old screw driver and touch the post on the solinoid that has the + battery cable to the small post next to it. if the truck tries to start then you have a bad solinoid. Try that and let us know what happens.
Does it click at all when you hit start position? If not then you are getting no power to the small terminal closest to the battery side of the solenoid, try hatemakings suggestion. If it cranks then you have bad wiring from the ignition "start" position or bad ignition switch. If it still won't crank, the solenoid is bad.
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The solenoid is brand new, just put it on. It does make a clicking sound when the key is turned. Where would I find the ground cable off the motor? If the problem is the ground then what is the best way to go about fixing it? The inner fender where the solenoid is, is rust free so I know the solenoid has a good ground. I do not believe the solenoid is the problem but I will try the jumper cables just to see for sure.
Thanks for the input,
Rick
Thanks for the input,
Rick
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From: UTI student
Most of the time when I have a clicking at startup it means I have a dead battery. As far as ground cables go. You should have one that runs from battery to maybe the alt bracket (thats is where mine goes not sure if thats correct though) then you should have a ground strap from the motor to the body. It may be in the back area of the motor going to the firewall. My ground strap was missing so I bought a Taylor steel braid ground strap and bolted it to the back of my block and ran it to the firewall after cleaning off the paint around the bolt hole.
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From: Union, Washington
Actually the ground cable normally goes to the head or the block. Sounds like a started problem to me. Electric motors do not like to sit a long time with out being run. The brushes stick, get corroded and, gee that damn thing won't work. Sometime tapping the frame with a plastic mallet will knock things loose. If nothing else, when you pull it, that banging around will loosen things up and then it will work, sometimes.
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I tried the screw driver idea today still got the same chatter. I didn't take time to remove the ground wire from the battery to the motor block because it looked in good shape. If I take the starter off is there any to tell if it is any good still? With the second ground strap should I just clean under it (when I find it lol) or if its not in very good shape how hard to install and how much would new ones cost? We tried using jumper cables to start it to make sure the problem wasn't the battery and we still got the same results. The battery just came off the charger so its good and full of juice, the solenoid is brand new, so all that leaves is the groud wire and possibly a starter problem correct?
Rick
Rick
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From: UTI student
If you take the starter off you can take it to any parts store and they can check it. Do not pay to have it checked. Every place in town does it for free. You can also look at ground straps at that time. You shouldn't have to pay more then $8 for the strap from the block to the body. I have heard of corrosion forming under the protective coating on battery cables. It doesn't happen often here but it does happen.
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From: Union, Washington
Originally Posted by Gregorri
I tried the screw driver idea today still got the same chatter. I didn't take time to remove the ground wire from the battery to the motor block because it looked in good shape. If I take the starter off is there any to tell if it is any good still? With the second ground strap should I just clean under it (when I find it lol) or if its not in very good shape how hard to install and how much would new ones cost? We tried using jumper cables to start it to make sure the problem wasn't the battery and we still got the same results. The battery just came off the charger so its good and full of juice, the solenoid is brand new, so all that leaves is the groud wire and possibly a starter problem correct?
Rick
Rick
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Got the old girl to fire up today. Seemed that there was a minor problem with the grounds. Cleaned the cables that hook around the battery post, the ground to the block and Dad cleaned the ground from the block to the body. Gave the key a turn and heard the great sounds of a big block ford with lots of mods. All I need is a new carb kit for the holley 650, some brake lines and I'll be good to go (hopefully).
Thanks for all your help,
Rick
Thanks for all your help,
Rick
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Just did the same thing to my '71 F100. Lights worked, but I'd turn the ignition and nothing. I wire brushed the battery cables until shiny, and it fixed it. Interesting thing is you'd never guess the cables were corroded that bad just by looking at them.
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You wouldn't think so but but after 30 plus years, who knows what can happen. I just came back from taking my 69 out for a spin on the farm, it's only run 1 since 99 until this past week when I started to play with it. If I didn't know better I would have thought the motor was brand new out of the speed shop all over again. The brake fluid was empty but the lines look good. The trans was low on fluid and the gas wasn't the best. With all new plugs, fluids, and some all small stuff she'll be back to smoking those tires in no time.
Rick
Rick
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