Ok I have figured out my cooling system problem. Now I need help with somthing else, I can start my 77 F-100 w/302 up no problem turn the key and vroom... but if I step on it a little it starts to go pu.........put..........put, and not constantly its just like every 2 seconds and if I really floor it bring the rpm's up high, it does it about every second.. and some. I replaved the plugs and wires, the cap and roter is in great shape so I didnt replace it. The plugs are all gaped at .044 what the manual and NAPA recomended. I checked them befor and took them out when this started and checked the gap again. What could it be? Also If anyone has a vacume diagram that I can understand for my 77 F-100 w/302 PLEASE send it or post it! The PO did some weird stuff with the hoses.. pluged some of them and all sorts of weird stuff... Thanks for any help you can give me.

 

Did you try removing the vacuum lines from the distributor, plugging them, and seeing if it still does it? Sometimes the little ground wire that goes from the distributor body to the breaker plate will break and when the vacuum advance moves the plate your points will momentarily loose ground. You may also want to pull the cap and see if the distributor shaft has play in it, side to side. You points may not be closing all the time if the bushings are worn. Another thing you may want to do is start the truck, remove the air cleaner and look down the throat of the carb while revving it slightly. If you see gas running down the carb in dribbles that will give you the putt-putt effect.

 

Check the firing order and inspect the cap for carbon tracking. Pinch the hoses with a needle nose pliers instead of pulling them off.
William in Atlanta

 

>Ok I have figured out my cooling system problem. Now I need
>help with somthing else, I can start my 77 F-100 w/302 up no
>problem turn the key and vroom... but if I step on it a
>little it starts to go pu.........put..........put, and not
>constantly its just like every 2 seconds and if I really
>floor it bring the rpm's up high, it does it about every
>second.. and some. I replaved the plugs and wires, the cap
>and roter is in great shape so I didnt replace it. The plugs
>are all gaped at .044 what the manual and NAPA recomended. I
>checked them befor and took them out when this started and
>checked the gap again. What could it be?

Sounds like the wires on your ignition pickup are bad. The vacuum advance cutting in and out will make the engine do that.

Also If anyone has
>a vacume diagram that I can understand for my 77 F-100 w/302
>PLEASE send it or post it! The PO did some weird stuff with
>the hoses.. pluged some of them and all sorts of weird
>stuff... Thanks for any help you can give me.

Use this link to find vacuum diagrams:
http://www1.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?UseCase=L001&UserAction=viewHomePage
You will have to "resubmit" your request. Then find "repair info"
then "emissions" then "vacuum diagrams". 1977 should be near the top of the list.



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Ok well I know its not spiting gobs of gas into my carb, the PO rebuildt the carb befor he sold it to me. And I checked. Took my distributor cap off and tryed to move my rotor side to side and there is no play in it. So ...Ok you all told me what seems to be the problem... You just didnt tell me how to fix this problem? I recently bought a vacume tester and I have no idea where to start testing or what to test?The Chilton manual I bought only has a vacume diagram for a 1977 351, and I have a 77 302... HELP, have to be driveing to keep a job...

 

Additional information posted by Racer:

I have a 77 F-100 with a 302. Stock everything, Motorcraft Carb.. And I am haveing problems with my engine missing all the time, I thought it was only at a high RPM but I figured out that I just couldnt hear it as much unless the engine was reving up. It misses about 1-2 times every 3 seconds. I have replaced my Spark plugs, checked the gaps about 5 times. I have replaced the sparkplug wires and made sure they are in the correct order. I recently bought a Vacume tester and dont know where to start. But first I want to know if I have all of the hoses hooked up correctly, and make sure that is not my problem.

PLEASE HELP!

I have already told you where to begin, see my post above.

Find the vacuum diagram at the links that were given to you.

We really are not set up here to give classes in basic auto mechanics. If you want to know how to use some of the specialized instruments that mechanics use you might want to investigate a course in auto mechanics at a local college. You may find that some of your friends know how to use these instruments. It takes time to understand and use these instruments effectively.


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[updated:LAST EDITED ON 10-Jan-03 AT 02:33 PM (EST)]>I have already told you where to begin, see my post above.
>
>Find the vacuum diagram at the links that were given to you.
>
>We really are not set up here to give classes in basic auto
>mechanics. If you want to know how to use some of the
>specialized instruments that mechanics use you might want to
>investigate a course in auto mechanics at a local college.
>You may find that some of your friends know how to use these
>instruments. It takes time to understand and use these
>instruments effectively.

I know how to use the vacume guage, What I wanted to know was where to hook it up, I am also asking for another person who posted a question like this but noone replyed to his question. I know basic auto mechanics, I went to the website you gave me and they did not have a "77" 302 they did have one for a 79 but they also had about 10 different ones.. how do I know which one I can use?

 

Dave,
You can hook it up to any vacuum port that has constant vacuum at idle. Look near the base of the carb or on the back of the intake. If you have an automatic tranny you could disconnect the line that goes to the modulator.
Just my $.02
Greg

'77 F-250 Camper Special 400ci driver
'76 F-250 Supercab 360ci current project
'71 Mach I 429CJ in storage
'79 F-150 for parts
HONK if you like peace and quiet!

 

Try the full size car section, Fig #4 for a vacuum diagram for a 302.

How is it you know how to use a vacuum gauge but don't know how to hook it up? That does not make sense...


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To the Contrary , It was my assumption that "Basic Diagnosis" of ALL problems relating to Fords were fair game for any and ALL of the Participants here on the website to Take a shot at offering a Solution to the problem. That is, in my opinion , THE MAIN reason that Most folks who HAVE problems POST on this website!!!!! If ALL old ford trucks never needed too be worked on and all the owners KNEW how to fix the Ones that DID break , this website would be a very Lonely place and Definitely wouldn't need any Moderators..... fd

 

I agree. sometimes people here seem to forget what this website is really about. if you ask a question twice or use the wrong term they jump all over you. if you dont want to offer helpful information i feel its better to not reply at all. in my past experiences a bad pickup coil reacted that way. good luck

 

So many people so many things to do, thank you! And by the way Ford trucks are simple... But somtimes when you are trying to find a problem you can search and search and not find it by yourself.. That is why I am asking so many simple questions - I just want to make sure I am not doing somthing "simple" the wrong way. I know how to use and hook up the vacume tester I just didnt know where to hook it up, or if I was suposed to hook it up while the engine is warm or cold. Needed to know the things that the piece of paper did not tell me "which the piece of paper hardly explains anything". And as for makeing sure the vacume diagram is corret... I took off my EGR valve and there was alot of black dry crud buildt up in the passenger side hole? Also the male connection to the EGR valve is not connected to anything. Would this cause my problem?

 

Fat and Rusty-

If you will check out post #3 you will see that I told him to check his pickup coil. I asked him to read the post again later. Rusty, I am glad you agree with that assesment. I also told him to check the ignition module since it is easy to do and may catch a problem also. People do not seem to read all of the replies in a topic before they post either.

Fatdaddy- I NEVER said this forum was not open to everyone to offer solutions, and I don't know where you would get an idea like that or get so aggravated about a non existant issue. Moderators are here to answer questions and help users as much as possible. We are also charged with enforcing some administrative rules the owner of the site has set. I have also asked many questions on this site as well as answered many. Check my post totals and ratings, I think they speak for themselves.

I will say that we can not provide basic auto mechanics training. That requires hands on instruction and experience with instructors, friends, parents etc. People also need to buy basic repair manuals so they can look at the pictures, diagrams, tables, specs, and read thru the explanations and repair proceedures. Remember, pictures are worth a thousand words. Repair manuals are the absolute first thing a person should buy for their old truck. Reading the instructions on a vacuum tester will not teach a user the required engine theory that will allow him/her to use that diagnostic tool effectively. If someone actually knows how to use a vacuum tester they will not need to ask where or how to hook one up. If they do not know the theory behind how an engine operates, and have experience, the how and why of needle wiggles and vacuum levels will generally be incomprehensible to them. Mechanics have learned their craft thru many years of experience and many hours/years of schooling, training, and study. If someone thinks they can read a few posts, an article in a magazine, or a few sheets of instructions to become an expert they are sadly mistaken.

We can and do answer many questions here but the user must take that information and apply it to the problem. His brain, eyes, ears, and hands are the only ones that can work on his/her truck.


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>So many people so many things to do, thank you! And by the
>way Ford trucks are simple... But somtimes when you are
>trying to find a problem you can search and search and not
>find it by yourself.. That is why I am asking so many simple
>questions - I just want to make sure I am not doing somthing
>"simple" the wrong way. I know how to use and hook up the
>vacume tester I just didnt know where to hook it up, or if I
>was suposed to hook it up while the engine is warm or cold.
>Needed to know the things that the piece of paper did not
>tell me "which the piece of paper hardly explains anything".
>And as for makeing sure the vacume diagram is corret...



>I took off my EGR valve and there was alot of black dry crud
>buildt up in the passenger side hole? Also the male
>connection to the EGR valve is not connected to anything.
>Would this cause my problem?

And As for Torque- I know you are just doing your job, and I am sorry if I dont know much about vaccume, since I always thought iw was a pain in the ***, as for wireing. People have had the same problems as I and dont get bashed by everyone, they get answer. I am just doing what I was told to do by the administrator. "Ask the questions at the ford-truck.com website forum under the 73-79 forum and they will help you out." And honestly I have goten more help from you than I have from NAPA. This is why I ask these questions in this ford truck 73-79 forum, if I posted this question .. lets say in the gengeral conversation forum they would tell me to post it here.

 

Everyone here tries to answer questions as best we can... You need to do your part and check out what everyone says, you never know who will hit upon the answer for your problem. You must understand that we are doing some educated guessing here based upon your perceptions of the "problem".

Vacuum systems ARE a pain!!! -hehe

For the most part the vacuum operated systems in your vehicle are fairly simple. You look for bad hoses, leaky vacuum motors, and bad switches. Engine vacuum as in the type used for various engine diagnostic proceedures is an art that you learn from experience. You have to have a picture in your mind of what is going on inside an engine and the relationships of all the parts and systems to use a vacuum gage as one of your diagnostic tools. It is only one tool tho. A simple use that many people use a vacuum gage for is tuning the idle mixture on a carb. You can look for vacuum leaks in some components with a vacuum gage but the specialized little hand pumps work best for that.

Most of the guys at napa know parts but few of them know anything about vehicle mechanics. Many of the guys here work on these old trucks daily (sometimes we have to). My 78 is dying but it still keeps on running. I know it has a terminal condition, -low oil pressure due to worn bearings, a common condition in 351M/400's.

As far as your EGR valve is concerned... How big is the male connector? -You know that sounds bad... -hehe
If it is the vacuum hose connection it just means that the EGR has been disconnected so it is inoperable. This will make your engine ping a little at part throttle cruise unless the distributor advance curve has been modified. I am not certain what system your 302 uses for conducting the exhaust gasses into the EGR valve. If the male connection is a large one and it is open it can cause problems if the EGR is operational. If the EGR is leaking because of a buildup of crud it can cause a problem. Did your engine speed change when propane gas was directed at the EGR or the connector?

Did you find your vacuum diagram? It will be very difficult to find all of the components to put the emissions system back together if it is missing parts.

If you posted in the Garage forum I would tell you to post it here also... You have found the right forum. The people here will tell you many things to check, your job is to check them out...

Do you have a repair manual for your truck? What kind do you have? I have Haynes, Chilton's, and an OEM for almost every vehicle I have. The only ones I am missing is an OEM for my 90 Isuzu Trooper and a Haynes or Chilton's (only one makes it) for my son's newly aquired 86 Mitsubishi Starion.

Check out what we have told you and get back to us with the results.


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