Dead as a rock.
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Freshman User
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From: Temecula, CA
Dead as a rock.
93 f250 IDI diesel
Took my lovely wife out to lunch yesterday, after a fine chili burger we went out to the truck and turned the key to heat up the glow plugs, turned her over a couple revs (the truck, not my wife...lol) and she went dead. No interior lights, radio, door buzzer, clock no nuthin'. Opended the hood and saw that the cable between the 2 batteries is shot, gave it a twist and it completely seperated, arrgh. So using a little anglo engineering I clamped the frayed cable end to the terminal, I needed a jump to fire it up, and we were off the part store for the new cable. When I got back to the garage, I stripped the old cable(s) off, cleaned the terminals and put the new cable on, and charged the batteries. I turn the key, nuthin. Dead as a rock. Batteries meter at 12v but no power is getting to the chassis or engine.
My ignition switch on the steering column has been a bit sloppy lately, but that shouldn't effect the dome lights and all the other "always hot" electrical components, right?
Help!
In His grips,
The Angry Viking
Took my lovely wife out to lunch yesterday, after a fine chili burger we went out to the truck and turned the key to heat up the glow plugs, turned her over a couple revs (the truck, not my wife...lol) and she went dead. No interior lights, radio, door buzzer, clock no nuthin'. Opended the hood and saw that the cable between the 2 batteries is shot, gave it a twist and it completely seperated, arrgh. So using a little anglo engineering I clamped the frayed cable end to the terminal, I needed a jump to fire it up, and we were off the part store for the new cable. When I got back to the garage, I stripped the old cable(s) off, cleaned the terminals and put the new cable on, and charged the batteries. I turn the key, nuthin. Dead as a rock. Batteries meter at 12v but no power is getting to the chassis or engine.
My ignition switch on the steering column has been a bit sloppy lately, but that shouldn't effect the dome lights and all the other "always hot" electrical components, right?
Help!
In His grips,
The Angry Viking
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From: Temecula, CA
The fuses, all good. The 2 fuesable links I know of are right there on the starter relay (pass. side on fender) and they look OK.
Do you know the wire layout for that relay? Which wire goes where, maybe I hooked it up wrong.
Thanks a million,
Vike
Do you know the wire layout for that relay? Which wire goes where, maybe I hooked it up wrong.
Thanks a million,
Vike
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From: Temecula, CA
From the pass side battery I have 3 cables off the + terminal: 1) goes to other battery. 2) goes to starter 3) goes to the forward pole on the relay located just to the left of the pass. side battery on the inside fender panel.
Then there is a jumper wire that runs from the rear pole of the relay all the way down to the starter. All of them are red. Then, there are 3 or 4 more wires attached to the rear pole of the relay, 2 with fusable links.
Thats the gereral layout, I bought a full harness from NAPA and replaced that whole monster battery cable rig to the 2 batteries...
The only thing I coulda messed up was where the 2 red wires that attach to the relay....
Thanks,
Vike
Then there is a jumper wire that runs from the rear pole of the relay all the way down to the starter. All of them are red. Then, there are 3 or 4 more wires attached to the rear pole of the relay, 2 with fusable links.
Thats the gereral layout, I bought a full harness from NAPA and replaced that whole monster battery cable rig to the 2 batteries...
The only thing I coulda messed up was where the 2 red wires that attach to the relay....
Thanks,
Vike
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From: Adams TN
there should be a little wire on the starter solinoid that gives power to the cab when the engine is not running. If you forgot to hook that up then you would have no power to the Ign switch an no start and every thing would be dead.
DT
DT
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From: Temecula, CA
Are you talking about the little plug that goes to the small threaded stud between the 2 poles? It's hooked up.
Thanks'
Vike
Thanks'
Vike
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From: Adams TN
the one on the fender. No that's the signal wire fromt the ignition switch.
This one should be on the Batt. side of the solinoid. it slides on the pole and then the cable goes over it.
That's the way it is on my truck.
DT
This one should be on the Batt. side of the solinoid. it slides on the pole and then the cable goes over it.
That's the way it is on my truck.
DT
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From: Temecula, CA
On the front post of the selonoid theres one wire that goes to the battery, on the other post there's one red wire that goes to the starter, and three others that go to the alt. and to the glow plugs I think...
The ground goes to the block.
The ground goes to the block.
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From: Adams TN
i'd double check where those 3 wires go. do you have a wiring diagram in your haynes manual?
I think once you find the proper place for those 3 wires you'll get it. I'll try to look it up in my book though.
DT
I think once you find the proper place for those 3 wires you'll get it. I'll try to look it up in my book though.
DT
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From: Adams TN
Ok the in my diagram: 3 grounds off the batts. one to Lower Left Front of engine, one to the upper rad support, one to the starter on the block. 2 wires comming off the right + terminal one goes to the starter relay on the fender the other directly to the starter.
Then the rest comes off at the starter. 2 Dk Green's to the Glowplug controller with fuseable links,and a DK Gray to the Alt with a fuseable link.
Then at the Glowplug Contr. The one from the starter has a fuseable link and a Red-Lt green one to Fuse K in the engine Compt. with a fuseable link.
I have a couple pages of diagrams if you want me to post them
And there are a couple of fuses in the under hood Fuse box that control the main power to the cab and ign. Might just want to double check those any way to be sure.
DT
Then the rest comes off at the starter. 2 Dk Green's to the Glowplug controller with fuseable links,and a DK Gray to the Alt with a fuseable link.
Then at the Glowplug Contr. The one from the starter has a fuseable link and a Red-Lt green one to Fuse K in the engine Compt. with a fuseable link.
I have a couple pages of diagrams if you want me to post them
And there are a couple of fuses in the under hood Fuse box that control the main power to the cab and ign. Might just want to double check those any way to be sure.
DT
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From: Temecula, CA
Wow thanks WT, your my new Ford hero...
However, still no go.
Checked all fuzes, links and grounds, negatory.
I jumped the two poles on the selinoid for a sec and the motor turnsover, so we do indeed have volts.
Now about that extra wire at the selinoid you mentioned was the cab power, mine has a rubber boot like a spark plug and it plugs into 3/16" threaded stud coming out of the selenoid body. it then disappears into a big harness that heads to the firewall...
Did the selenoid go bad?
If it is, should I be able to jump that booted wire direct to the + on the battery?
However, still no go.
Checked all fuzes, links and grounds, negatory.
I jumped the two poles on the selinoid for a sec and the motor turnsover, so we do indeed have volts.
Now about that extra wire at the selinoid you mentioned was the cab power, mine has a rubber boot like a spark plug and it plugs into 3/16" threaded stud coming out of the selenoid body. it then disappears into a big harness that heads to the firewall...
Did the selenoid go bad?
If it is, should I be able to jump that booted wire direct to the + on the battery?
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From: Adams TN
The wire your talking about is the signal wire =12V from ign.
So, yes you can jump the booted wire that's how to test if the Solinoid is any good.
So you still have no power to even the Dome lights? What about Brake lights?
DT
So, yes you can jump the booted wire that's how to test if the Solinoid is any good.
So you still have no power to even the Dome lights? What about Brake lights?
DT