When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
The Door Rubbers for my '53 Slant Cab seem TOO Big.
These are brand New Dennis Carpenter products.
I've trial fitted them on two different occassions, the last time this week with a second set of eyes and most importantly hands! They seem too long or large... mostly at the bottom.
1.> Has anyone else had this problem or am I doing something wrong?
2.> If I do cut them to fit I was thinking of doing it at the bottom.
3.> Would you cut before or after you glue?
4.> What kind of glue did you use?
Thanks Guys
I have a 56 and haven't fit new weatherstrip yet. But, yes, I would cut at the bottom to make it fit. I would fit it BEFORE I glued it. There is a weatherstrip adhesive (Permatex, I think) that is made just for that. Just be sure you use it sparingly and clean it up immediately, as it is impossible to get off later.
I installed DC rubbers on my 54. They fit correctly. I would bet that you will have a good fit once you actually start gluing them in place. Start at the top and work down both sides of the window. If it is too long, then like Randy says, just cut out the extra. Good luck, Jag
I am STILL in the process of installing the DC ones on my 55.Lengthwise,they are perfect,but thickness is something that needs to be trimmed to fit your particular truck/door.
I have the smaller door seals from mid-fifty and I will be installing them next week, I'll let you guys know how it fits, I know there has been a lot of discussion on this topic in the past. Wayne
If it is a one-piece rubber, do the corners line up? You might be pulling it too tight, hence the left over. That 3M weatherstrip adhesive really holds rubber on well; as long as you properly clean the door up.
I just installed new DC seals on my 60. I used plain old contact cement. Be sure to wash the rubber sealing surfaces in laquer thinner and let dry before gluing. There's a residue from the casting process on there and will give trouble when using weatherstrip adhesive. Made this mistake on a 58 retactable hardtop recently.
I did not trim the thickness on my truck seals and only had a short piece to cutoff. The doors were very tight at first and had to slam hard to shut them. After sitting for a few weeks with doors shut, the rubber settled down. I did have to adjust the striker on my left door a bit but I think this was due to previous misadjustment.
jt
I bought my door weather stripping from Mac's it was the solid type. Once installed I couldn't close the doors. The previous owner had tack welded the hinge brackets to the pillar so adjustment was out. I cut a piece and took it to a local antique Ford swapmeet. There was a vendor there that had the same diameter and thickness material, but his had a hollow core. I purchased that material at a fraction of what the reproduction stuff cost and It works great.
3M has some great "Super Weatherstrip Adhesive," black = #8008 yellow 8002 I think.
Long way from using it on the F-100, but just put new weatherstrips on the '56 'bird and it worked great and made the job easy.
It sticks instantly but will peel off for a few seconds before it sets up if you get it in the wrong place and if you just use it on the rubber, not the metal.
I installed my D.C. weatherstrips this week on my 56 F100, trimed 1 1/2 inches from the left and 2 1/2 from the right I also had to trim 1 inch from each vent window seal.
I made the mistake of making my doors fit and installed Maverick door latches, so far I have had to shave so much off of the left door seal I'm wondering why I even put it on .
Well get to do the right one in the morning.
One other thing, found out I should never pick up a paint gun blew the paint job and even screwed up the primer but I will be driving it next summer. It'll look good at 20 feet and 50 MPH.
I think I liked it better in bare metal with a few primer spots.
Unless the DC weatherstrip is much thinner than the rest the doors will not close flush with the cab opening without trimming them. I tore off the first set and bought the Midfifty "smaller" ones. Still had to trim and I'm not completely satisfied with them. I will look into other vendors who have the hollow style. I don't recommend them to anyone, especially at what they cost and the grief they cause. Can you tell I'm happy about this subject???
I have the one piece weatherstripping which the PO gave me. They look like they would line up and fit, but look thick. I recently got to put door stripping on my friends Tucker (worth some serious bucks) He found a company that made weatherstrip in various sizes and simply purchased a roll of it. We used 3M black weatherstrip (he said he's never use anything but) He applied it to the contact side and the door side and simple started at one corner, went around the door and made one cut at the bottom. Came out beautiful. Of course the doors were removed when we did it also.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.