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Type in a search for "headers" here and in the exhaust forum also, that will be a big help to you also. Lot of opinions as to which is best, and will vary. Hedman and Sanderson rate high here. If you have a 2wd drive , headers are easy to get and install. A 4wd is a pain in the keester, because other than shorties, I found they all hit right in to the crossmember of the transfer case. And my experience has been, they are so hard to get on and off, I would not pay LESS than 200 bucks for a pair. The cheaper ones will burn out faster and leak WAY too soon. YGWYPF applies well on exhaust items, jmo
Last edited by Greg 79 f150; Jun 30, 2005 at 04:35 AM.
I'm just wondering, because I saw a set a Dynomax headers for $105, aren't they a good exhaust comany? Why so cheap? But for their cyramic coated ones, $350+. Does it seem like they would work fine???
I have dynomax headers on my truck. They seem fine. the only thing is within a couple months all the paint burned off so they are rusty now. Get the ceramic coated ones you'll be much happier. and like Greg 79 F150 said the collectors land right in front of the tranny crossmember. Fender exit headers wouldnt do that though.
I have had Dynomax headers on my 77 460 2wd for about 4 yrs now. Not problems other than paint never sticks to headers due to the heat. If you can afford coated headers, they will last alot longer.
I would use cast manifolds with a dual exhaust kit, headers leak, melt stuff like steering box seals if 2 wd, ,,, they can be anoying for a street truck
personaly i dont like headers for the following reasons headers will eventually warp from excessive heat, you may run into problems with crossmembers ect, you need to cover your starter with heat shield, if your going to use headers you should at least have you exhaust pipe close to the size of the collector. Lets say if your headers have a 3 inch collector and your exhaust is 2in or 2.5in you got restriction right there. My favorite thing to do is to leave your stock exhaust manifolds and put a mr. gasket cable operated cut out right before the muffler of glass pack. close em up in town, open em up on the highway.
well im just saying that when you have a 3 inch collector and go to 2inch pipe your going to have restriction. if you have a header with a 3inch or 2inch collector and put them on a 2 inch pipe you will have the same restriction.
my Hedmans have a 3" collector, and came with 2.5 and 2" reducers. Header collectors by nature are large, as you have the 4 pipes coming together, and that takes up space.
Mine use weld in collectors. No bolt on collectors to leak, the pipes weld right into the headers. After 4 years, they have never blown a gasket or melted anything. If you follow the proper tightening sequence in the instructions, they will seal fine. I have a set of MAC headers on my 5.0 Mustang that have been on there over 10 years and have never blown a gasket. Even with loose bolts.
dynomx headers are what i have on my truck they do come close trans crossmember but meh a good exhaust shop can work around it. if u want them to stay painted sandblast them and spray on exhaust paint i think its made by vht or somthing like that it wont burn off its good till 1500* which is hotter than ur exhaust temps should be. and about them warping if u do the proper torque procedures they shouldnt warp just like nething else if u dont do it the right way it will break plain and simple. i think they are the best buy for what u get. and an extra plus they go on with out haveing to pull the motor or nething like that