Boom!!!!! Pppsssssssstt!
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2005
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My filter minder came apart just the other day. The body is still connected to the air box but the reset button was dangling on the wiring. I took it all off and taped up the wiring plug, Is there a replacement part for this since i lost the spring that was once inside?? Also was wondering if anyone runs an aftermarket filter with this still in use. Thanks for the info
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2002
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From: Paola, KS
Originally Posted by smokin_6.0
My filter minder came apart just the other day. The body is still connected to the air box but the reset button was dangling on the wiring. I took it all off and taped up the wiring plug, Is there a replacement part for this since i lost the spring that was once inside?? Also was wondering if anyone runs an aftermarket filter with this still in use. Thanks for the info
My airraid intake still uses the factory filter minder.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 1,785
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From: Paola, KS
Originally Posted by J.Lauer
Where is the CAC Tube ? I just posted my story on this.
Elder User
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 594
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I'm not going to argue which is better, obviously the PLASTIC part Ford chose to go with doesn't work too well. They have now chosen to go with a METAL tube, with silicon rubber hoses, and heavyduty turbocharger clamps.
Comparisons are senseless,this is a truck, not a Mustang, Camaro, etc.
Comparisons are senseless,this is a truck, not a Mustang, Camaro, etc.
Originally Posted by Crash687
plastic of any color is an insulator and does not hold heat
Mountain Pass
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 121
Likes: 0
From: Tally
Yeah, your right its not a mustang or camaro. You wouldn't see a mustang/camaro with 17:1 compression and 25+ psi of boost unless it was a race car. But they did go to the plastic tube for a reason. The diesel mech that I spoke to about it said that the metal tube after the IC was picking up too much heat from the engine. Hurting the cooler air coming from the IC. I'm hoping the Autotap will let me watch the Inlet air temp. I'm curious how hot that air is.
I don't believe the plastic pipe is to totally blame with them poping off. I think its the poor PCV design and all the oil that gets into the pipes. I bet if they fixed the PCV system, the pipe wouldn't blow off at all. 25 to 30 psi AFTER the IC is a lot of pressure to be holding. Add the nice layer of oil that seeps out and pop goes the pipe. I bet the reason the metal pipe holds, is they can crank the clamps down a lot harder on the metal then they can the plastic.
I don't believe the plastic pipe is to totally blame with them poping off. I think its the poor PCV design and all the oil that gets into the pipes. I bet if they fixed the PCV system, the pipe wouldn't blow off at all. 25 to 30 psi AFTER the IC is a lot of pressure to be holding. Add the nice layer of oil that seeps out and pop goes the pipe. I bet the reason the metal pipe holds, is they can crank the clamps down a lot harder on the metal then they can the plastic.
Posting Guru
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,016
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From: Lynden, WA.
Originally Posted by 3/4ER
They have now chosen to go with a METAL tube, with silicon rubber hoses, and heavyduty turbocharger clamps.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 19,098
Likes: 8
From: Great State of Texas
plastic of any color is an insulator and does not hold heat
Not really true. If plastic did not hold heat it wouldn't melt.
There are thousands of plastic and rubber compounds on the market today. Some reflect heat, some transfer heat, some conduct heat, some are heat resistant, some have very low heat tolerance, etc...no matter what the color is.
Two of my silicone products are rated very differently from one another yet look , feel, smell the same. One begins breaking down around 450 F and the other is good to over 800 F as an example.
The biggest problem, IMO, with these tubes and clamps is the varying degrees of expansion rates and how they relate to each other.
The silicone expands at different rate than the metal which expands at a different rate than the plastic. And lets not forget that the spring loaded clamps have different expansion properties as well. Throw a little lubricant into the mix and badda boom, badda bing....KaPOW!!! Thar she blows.
Not really true. If plastic did not hold heat it wouldn't melt.
There are thousands of plastic and rubber compounds on the market today. Some reflect heat, some transfer heat, some conduct heat, some are heat resistant, some have very low heat tolerance, etc...no matter what the color is.
Two of my silicone products are rated very differently from one another yet look , feel, smell the same. One begins breaking down around 450 F and the other is good to over 800 F as an example.
The biggest problem, IMO, with these tubes and clamps is the varying degrees of expansion rates and how they relate to each other.
The silicone expands at different rate than the metal which expands at a different rate than the plastic. And lets not forget that the spring loaded clamps have different expansion properties as well. Throw a little lubricant into the mix and badda boom, badda bing....KaPOW!!! Thar she blows.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 1,785
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From: Paola, KS
Originally Posted by Gt-358
I don't believe the plastic pipe is to totally blame with them poping off. I think its the poor PCV design and all the oil that gets into the pipes. I bet if they fixed the PCV system, the pipe wouldn't blow off at all. 25 to 30 psi AFTER the IC is a lot of pressure to be holding. Add the nice layer of oil that seeps out and pop goes the pipe. I bet the reason the metal pipe holds, is they can crank the clamps down a lot harder on the metal then they can the plastic.
The oil helps prevent corriosion in the CAC and related items.
Elder User
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 594
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CAC replacement done, looks real truck like now (metal tubes all over the place). My only disapointment is that the silicon sleaves are black.
This contrasts with the blue ones on the turbo outlet side.
I think they should at least be switched around, makes more sense, BLACK on the hot side, BLUE on the cold side.
This contrasts with the blue ones on the turbo outlet side.
I think they should at least be switched around, makes more sense, BLACK on the hot side, BLUE on the cold side.