Brakes
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Brakes
so i switched to disc brakes on my 64 f-100, but i am still running the stock master cylinder. any ideas on what i should put on to replace it with. any thoughts would be helpfull, thanks guys.
More Turbo
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 560
Likes: 0
From: Orange, CT
Hey, Kongslibakken:
Was that a power brakes M/C, or non-power? I know nothing about the Mustang brakes, but I figure if I'm going to upgrade, I might as well start looking for a M/C, and I'd like to know what I should be looking for.
Would just the installation of a "better" M/C help the braking on my F250?
Thanks!
Was that a power brakes M/C, or non-power? I know nothing about the Mustang brakes, but I figure if I'm going to upgrade, I might as well start looking for a M/C, and I'd like to know what I should be looking for.
Would just the installation of a "better" M/C help the braking on my F250?
Thanks!
Junior User
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 64
Likes: 1
From: Lake Wales, Fl.
64 disc conversion
A good site for all brake info is 911Brakes.com. They give you all the info on master cylinders, proportioning valves, residual valves, pedal ratio and other information that will make your brakes function properly.
I made the conversion on my 64 from single port master cylinder to dual port (drum/drum), to power drum and finally to power disc. The late 60's master cylinder (drum, drum) was a direct bolt in for the front and rear drums, but when you go to discs you have to contend with a proportioning valve, residual valve for the rear drums and a bunch of double flares that are challenging.
I went with an 88 Mustang power booster/master cylinder/proportioning valve combination....did have to fabricate my own mount but it gives me reliable, predictable braking on both wet and dry surfaces.
Take a few minutes and check out their site. I have some pix of my conversion in my gallery. The guys in front of you will appreciate it!!!
Dave
I made the conversion on my 64 from single port master cylinder to dual port (drum/drum), to power drum and finally to power disc. The late 60's master cylinder (drum, drum) was a direct bolt in for the front and rear drums, but when you go to discs you have to contend with a proportioning valve, residual valve for the rear drums and a bunch of double flares that are challenging.
I went with an 88 Mustang power booster/master cylinder/proportioning valve combination....did have to fabricate my own mount but it gives me reliable, predictable braking on both wet and dry surfaces.
Take a few minutes and check out their site. I have some pix of my conversion in my gallery. The guys in front of you will appreciate it!!!
Dave
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 257
Likes: 0
From: ND
I installed Manual brakes drove my truck tonight and there's no pumping it will lcok up all four wheels. The Master cylinder is from a 1969 Mustang I believe it was parts plus NAPA doesn't carry it. It was a drum drum. Looks like Dave has a great site to go to nice Conversion Dave
Last edited by Kongslibakken; Jun 28, 2005 at 09:52 PM.
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 233
Likes: 0
Trending Topics
More Turbo
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 560
Likes: 0
From: Orange, CT
Hey, Kongslibakken:
Not sure I understand you, are you saying the Mustang M/C was available at Parts Plus, and NOT NAPA?
Is it a dual-reservoir M/C?
If all this is true, that's the way I want to go.
brider
Not sure I understand you, are you saying the Mustang M/C was available at Parts Plus, and NOT NAPA?
Is it a dual-reservoir M/C?
If all this is true, that's the way I want to go.
brider
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
AEV FXL Super Duty - the Super Duty Raptor Ford Doesn't Make
Brett Foote
Lobo Vs Lobo: Proof the F-150 Lobo Should Be Even Lower!
Michael S. Palmer
Ford's 2001 Explorer Sportsman Concept Looks For a New Home
Verdad Gallardo
10 Best Ford Truck Engines We Miss the Most!
Joe Kucinski
2026 Shelby F-150 Off-Road: Better Than a Raptor R?
Brett Foote
2027 Super Duty Carhartt Package First Look: 12 Things You NEED to Know!
Michael S. Palmer
10 Most Surprising 2026 Ford Truck Features!
Joe Kucinski
Top 10 Ford Trucks Coming to Mecum Indy 2026
Brett Foote
5 Best / 5 Worst Ford Truck Wheels of All Time
Joe Kucinski
Junior User
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 64
Likes: 1
From: Lake Wales, Fl.
M/C upgrade
Don't know if anyone has answered your question so will chime in myself. I used a big block Ford (drum front,drum rear) 68-69 M/C from AutoZone on my 64...my old rod worked okay from it's original mounting bolt.
No proportioning valve needed with drum/drum conversion.
You'll need to seperate the rear brake line from the block where it ties in with the front brake lines (plug) and add a new longer line(pre-formed from AZ) from the junction block (rear brakes) to the M/C. You'll need to get a couple brass adaptors from AZ to tie the lines into the M/C.
If you decide to do your own flares use a double flare kit...AZ has them to loan....be careful and be sure to follow their flaring directions to the letter.
You'll have a struggle loosening the fitting on the junction block (under dr.side floor, bolted to frame)...use a fitting wrench...before the vise grips. This is the most challenging part of the upgrade.
Hopefully, you've rebuilt your wheel cylinders up front. I went through all you're doing, went to pwr drum, and finally to the pwr disc conversion. Good luck.
Dave
No proportioning valve needed with drum/drum conversion.
You'll need to seperate the rear brake line from the block where it ties in with the front brake lines (plug) and add a new longer line(pre-formed from AZ) from the junction block (rear brakes) to the M/C. You'll need to get a couple brass adaptors from AZ to tie the lines into the M/C.
If you decide to do your own flares use a double flare kit...AZ has them to loan....be careful and be sure to follow their flaring directions to the letter.
You'll have a struggle loosening the fitting on the junction block (under dr.side floor, bolted to frame)...use a fitting wrench...before the vise grips. This is the most challenging part of the upgrade.
Hopefully, you've rebuilt your wheel cylinders up front. I went through all you're doing, went to pwr drum, and finally to the pwr disc conversion. Good luck.
Dave
More Turbo
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 560
Likes: 0
From: Orange, CT
Thanks a bunch for the info. Was that M/C from a big-block TRUCK, or sedan? Does it matter as long as the bore dia is the same as stock(wouldn't want to install a smaller bore dia than stock, you'd LOSE braking power then)?
You mentioned a pre-formed "longer" line from the junction block to the M/C; why is this necessary, and what model is this pre-formed line from?
I assumed that if you disconnect the rear from the junction block, then plug those holes, you'd need to splice a union to the rear line end and run new line up to the M/C. Isn't that basically it?
You mentioned a pre-formed "longer" line from the junction block to the M/C; why is this necessary, and what model is this pre-formed line from?
I assumed that if you disconnect the rear from the junction block, then plug those holes, you'd need to splice a union to the rear line end and run new line up to the M/C. Isn't that basically it?
Laughing Gas
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 957
Likes: 3
From: Winchendon MA
If your running the original drums in the rear and 72-78 disks up front and don't want to use the 72-78 power booster then use a 72-76 bronco master Cly. Theses are manual brake twin line master with disk front and drum rear with same size wheel Cly and calipers so the flows and pressures match up. No mods needed bolt in and bleed it.
On the plus side the bronco master has the lines on the fender side so there not near the header.
As for prop valve. it's up to you! with the proper master you don't really need on the stock one is more of an idiot light switch. if theres an imbalance in line pressure the spool slides over and light the dash light "BRAKES".
You may wish to get a cheap one from summit or jegs.
44dwarf
On the plus side the bronco master has the lines on the fender side so there not near the header.
As for prop valve. it's up to you! with the proper master you don't really need on the stock one is more of an idiot light switch. if theres an imbalance in line pressure the spool slides over and light the dash light "BRAKES".
You may wish to get a cheap one from summit or jegs.
44dwarf
More Turbo
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 560
Likes: 0
From: Orange, CT
Okaaaaaaayyyy...
Um, 44Dwarf:
Thanks for the additional info-but now you've thrown a Bronco M/C into the mix!
Back to basics: I am running the original drum brakes all around on my '66 F250.
I will deduce now that I DON'T need a proportioning valve.
But which is the preferred M/C? I've heard '69 Mustang, late 60's truck, and now '72-'76 Bronco. Are they all the same assuming they are two-chamber?
Thanks for the additional info-but now you've thrown a Bronco M/C into the mix!
Back to basics: I am running the original drum brakes all around on my '66 F250.
I will deduce now that I DON'T need a proportioning valve.
But which is the preferred M/C? I've heard '69 Mustang, late 60's truck, and now '72-'76 Bronco. Are they all the same assuming they are two-chamber?
Junior User
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 64
Likes: 1
From: Lake Wales, Fl.
m/c info.....
Hey Brider,
I think we're all giving you a bit too much info!!! Mine is based on m/c upgrade on 64 F100, 2wd....uses 68-69 Big Block M/C with dual chambers and line hookup for rear brakes as well as seperate line for front brakes. This is the upgrade from a single line, single resevoir master cylinder.
If you already have a dual chamber than you can disregard my post and follow the upgrade info from someone who is familiar with the 66 setup. Sorry if I confused the issue. The last thing you need is me giving you confusing or bad advice....even if it is well intentioned!!!
Dave
BTW, check out 911brakes.com and you should be able to answer all your basic questions about brakes.
I think we're all giving you a bit too much info!!! Mine is based on m/c upgrade on 64 F100, 2wd....uses 68-69 Big Block M/C with dual chambers and line hookup for rear brakes as well as seperate line for front brakes. This is the upgrade from a single line, single resevoir master cylinder.
If you already have a dual chamber than you can disregard my post and follow the upgrade info from someone who is familiar with the 66 setup. Sorry if I confused the issue. The last thing you need is me giving you confusing or bad advice....even if it is well intentioned!!!
Dave
BTW, check out 911brakes.com and you should be able to answer all your basic questions about brakes.
Last edited by FlaF100/460; Jun 30, 2005 at 02:00 PM. Reason: afterthought!