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1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks

'91 F150 is getting MOD's

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Old Jun 24, 2005 | 11:24 PM
  #1  
clark714x4's Avatar
clark714x4
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From: Hillsboro, OR
Talking '91 F150 is getting MOD's

Let's start off with the specs. 91 F150, I rebuilt the 302 2500 miles ago with a new exhaust. Runs great if I change the plugs every 1000 miles. I don't know why it's fouling plugs the way it is but hopfully I can fix it. And yes I've routed the wires about 50 times now. Still getting code 11 KOEO and KOER and no continous codes.

Here is what I'm doing:
Replacing the stock coil with a MSD blaster coil.
New 8.5 MSD Plug wires
Accel header plugs
MSD 6AL
BBK Ceramic headers
BBK 61MM Thottle body
Richmond 4:10 gears package Front and rear
Just put on 32 Wild country tires, Damn, they look good.
4" lift kit. (I haven't made up my mind if I want Rough country or a Superlift kit). Any suggestions would be great!!!
Paint the hood.

I plan on taking my time and documenting everything as I go. I have pictures at http://photos.yahoo.com/clark714x4

PS my Wife gave me the money for my fathers day present. She said to go buy a new truck or fix the one I got! Guess what I'm doing?

Jim
 
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Old Jun 24, 2005 | 11:28 PM
  #2  
Spaznaut's Avatar
Spaznaut
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From: NE Tennessee
Fuel pressure regulator? Sounds like your flooding out.
 
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Old Jun 24, 2005 | 11:34 PM
  #3  
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clark714x4
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BTW here is what I've already done to try and fix the fouling problem.

new FPR, complete EGR system including the Vac switches, Fuel injectors, checked all the vac system, new plug wires, $350 at the ford dealer for 3 days of work and the tech shrugging his shoulders and saying, just put new plugs in it.

Jim
 
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Old Jun 25, 2005 | 05:23 PM
  #4  
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clark714x4
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From: Hillsboro, OR
I've been busy today.

1st I installed the new MSD Blaster coil. The only noticable difference I noticed was that the idle smoothed out a little bit and the old truck seem to have a little more power when I got on it.

My MSD 8.5 Plug wires came in today so I picked them up along with new plugs, cap and rotor. I installed the plugs, routed the wire, put on the new cap and rotor, and went for a drive. MAJOR difference in performance. Idle is much smoother, better pick up off the line. I gapped the plugs at .05 instead of the normal .042-.046 the manufactor recommends. I think this is an improvement. I will take pictures of my old plugs and put them with the other picks. Still have a feeling that one of the other plugs is fouling. I'll ohm them out tonight.

I don't have anything going on tonight so I think I might install the MSD box tonight. I'll let you all know how it goes. I'm trying to figure out where to mount the box.

Jim
 
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Old Jun 26, 2005 | 05:20 PM
  #5  
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Need help figuring out where to mount this MSD box. I might build a shielf out of some stainless steel I have. Any more idles...

Jim
 
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Old Jun 26, 2005 | 06:43 PM
  #6  
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You can mount the 6aL box in the glove box, but it makes a clicking noise all the time. Just one place I've seen it done.

Benji
 
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Old Jun 26, 2005 | 07:12 PM
  #7  
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95 F150
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Don't change the throttle body unless you have good heads and a cam or you will kill your low end torque and throttle response. I put a BBK 56mm throttle body on my bolt on only truck and lost alot of low end power from it, and this is with headers, exhaust and an Edelbrock truck intake. I put the stock one back on and instantly noticed more power, I'd being willing to part with it pretty cheap lol.
 
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Old Jun 26, 2005 | 09:43 PM
  #8  
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Thanks for the info on the TB. I haven't purchased it yet. I need a TB because mine has developed a coolent leak on the lower coolent line. i did order the headers and K&N air intake last friday. Hopfully I'll get them this week. I haven't ordered my lift kit or my gear set yet. Anyone got opinions on either????

Jim
 
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Old Jun 26, 2005 | 10:09 PM
  #9  
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Do a throttle body bypass. Re-route the coolant where it doesn't pass through the throttle body. I'm new at this Ford thing, so if that isn't possible, don't give me too much *****. I know it's done on lots of other vehicles and you actually gain horsepower from it because it doesn't make the air coming in as hot as the coolant.

Benji
 
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Old Jun 27, 2005 | 09:39 AM
  #10  
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The coolant bypass on the throttle body is very easy to do, save your money and don't buy a new throttle body.
 
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Old Jun 27, 2005 | 07:41 PM
  #11  
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From: B/CS, Texas!!
Coolant bypass? Whats involved in that?

Since this is a Mod's thread, I got a couple questions...

UnderDrive Pulleys...Where can I get a set for a 5.0?
E-Fan conversion... Whats the HP gain on that? Can you feel it?
Shorty headers... Is this a 'feel it in your seat' mod?

Any of those give you better mileage? I get almost 13MPG with some exhaust mods and a k&n drop in.

clark, i've heard good things about rough country lifts.
 
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Old Jun 27, 2005 | 08:24 PM
  #12  
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Just take the coolant-in hose off of your throttle body, and connect it to the coolant-out hose. Then put caps on the throttle body openings. Costs less than $5. A plastic connector and some caps. Maybe some hose clamps if there aren't any on the throttle body already.
 
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Old Jun 27, 2005 | 08:33 PM
  #13  
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Sounds easy enough. Do i have to reconnect them when winter comes around though? It doesnt get cold here where I live....Maybe down to 30.
 
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Old Jun 27, 2005 | 09:58 PM
  #14  
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Thanks for the posts. I've all ready by passed the coolant lines a while back. It doesn't get bellow 30 around here so I don't need them. I wanted to put on a 61mm TB because I'm putting on 1 5/8 BBK headers. More air out, why not let more air in. The computer should be able to compensate.

I installed the MSD box today. I made a bracket out of .05" aluminum sheet metal and mounted it just above the jack next to the AC housing. It looks great. I'll put pics up tomorrow. I took it for a quick ride and I can differently till a difference. Top end performance is much improved. Idle is much smoother.

4wheel parts is having a huge sale for military members. I stopped by today on my way home and got a smoking deal on a Rancho 4" lift kit with RS5000 shocks and radius arms for $825. Ya I couldn't believe it myself. I also ordered Genuine 4:10 gears for the front and rear. The complete kit with front carrier cost $475. All the parts should be here by Friday. I can't wait to get working on the lift.

Jim
 
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Old Jun 27, 2005 | 11:57 PM
  #15  
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Do not buy the Edelbrock TB. The 61mm is ment for a much more powerful motor. The 56mm is also too small for you're application. I've got a 56mm on my 400 horse 393. Stick with the stock TB man, don't waste your money. Save it for a better performance mod. Hell, you could get a camshaft for that money and get way better results.

Everyone....remember we have different forums for different topics. Please read all the "read first" threads stuck at the tops of forums. Make sure we keep topics in the correct subject forum for organization.
 
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