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Need help here, guys! Planned on vacay to see mom...TOMORROW. I got the 92' F150 in good shape and ready to go. Then I Blew it...Big Time...it appears.
Adjusted the steering gear box...it took two turns...I backed it off a quarter and locked down the nut. Now the steering sticks and won't return on its own...a real mother to drive. Took it to Les Schawb where they told me "there is no getting it back...once you drive that screw in...It's in".
They suggested I back out the screw and bang on it with a sand hammer. If that don't work...they said you have to replace the thing.
I have noticed a lot of people adjusting there boxes that way.One guy even raised the tires off the ground and adjusted while the wheel was 2 turns over center which I find is more correct for the preload adjustment.But,and I don't have my 88 F150 with me now, I used to get the slack out of a Chevy by tightening the gland nut around the input shaft. What that does is moves the input shaft{worm gear} closer to the output shaft {sector gear}.I was wondering if the FORD gear had such a gland nut around the input shaft,and if so,everyone needs to tighten that first before the preload screw but should loosen the screw 1 turn while tightening the gland nut,then return the screw to the original position before trying to adjust any further.I should have looked at my truck first to see the design of the input shaft before posting this, but, I needed to let someone know just incase.
Phillip
Teo, there is a detent (index) in the center of the travel so that the steering would return to neutral (center) when released. You tightened the bolt too tight and that's why it won't return. I have a Haynes manual that talks about how to adjust with a torque wrench on the input shaft. Take a look at a manual. I had to replace my steering box because I tried to adjust the play out and even I tightened it down to the point you are at now, still had >2" play at wheels!!!! Auto Zone sold me a rebuilt box with a lifetime guarantee for $149 after core return. Took about 1.5 hours to swap out. Be sure to have a good gear puller to remove the pitman arm.
Thanks Chris & Phillip. Well, it's live and learn on this one. We don't have an Autozone here in Bend, OR, but the way we are growing (way too fast) it won't be long. Paid $218.43 at NAPA ($222.22 core charge) for the box & $20 for the pitman arm puller (not likely to use that puppy again). Obviously, I only have myself to blame on this. But, we have had so many threads on that damn adjustment screw; all of which sounded pretty routine...it's not.
So...for other listeners out there...ALL AMATURES SHOULD LEAVE THE ADJUSTMENT SCREW ALONE! That's my take on it. The guys at Les Schwab said they have a corporate directive which forbids them from touching that screw (and these guys look very professional to me). Boy, do I now know why.
Bright side is the box was definately leaking PS fluid and since this rig is a keeper, well...its taken care of.
Teo, when I adjusted my 79 Bronco I adjusted it a little until it was tight again. I pulled in the drive way with the tires dead straight. Then I turned the screw in 1/2 turn and locked it down. Drove the truck to check play, and repeated until it was just right. That's the only way I know to adjust the steering box with out breaking out the torque wrench and doing it that way. And I don't think you could use that method with out removing the unit and doing it on the bench anyway.
Are you ready for the next project?! Leveling coils, seats, lund moon visor .....
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