Tach not working properly
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New User
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 16
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Tach not working properly
Sometimes my tach doesnt work at all and other times it works fine and yesterday it started reading 1000rpms lower than it should be at times. Is there a wire that isnt grounded out properly or not hookedup correctly that I can take a look at and fix???? Where is it located???
Driving a 5 speed without a working tach gets annoying .
Driving a 5 speed without a working tach gets annoying .
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 5,638
Likes: 1
From: Manitoba
Well assuming you have an IDI as there is no info in your signature.......
The tach is on the timing gear housing next to the oil filler port, it a 1" nut.
Replace the tach sender on the oil fill housing a big 1" nut with 2 wires. Ford only part Engine RPM sensor E5TZ-17B384-A about $50. You can remove and clean it but usually changed later too. You can test it too, hold it in the air away from ferrous metal, using an ohm meter lead on each wire you need DC resistance between 2000-3000 ohms.
Also the wires will short out if the wire cover has pulled out of the sender, not much chance to seal it off as oil seeps out from the sender where the wires exit and destroyed any top grade sillycone seal I used.
The tach is on the timing gear housing next to the oil filler port, it a 1" nut.
Replace the tach sender on the oil fill housing a big 1" nut with 2 wires. Ford only part Engine RPM sensor E5TZ-17B384-A about $50. You can remove and clean it but usually changed later too. You can test it too, hold it in the air away from ferrous metal, using an ohm meter lead on each wire you need DC resistance between 2000-3000 ohms.
Also the wires will short out if the wire cover has pulled out of the sender, not much chance to seal it off as oil seeps out from the sender where the wires exit and destroyed any top grade sillycone seal I used.
Last edited by PLC7.3; Jun 23, 2005 at 11:36 PM.
Posting Guru
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 2,161
Likes: 1
From: Prince George, B.C.
I have one that will drop from 750 RPM to like 300 but only if there is any kind of drain on the batteries. Like when the heater (on high) and highbeams are on at idle. But it is fine as long as there is no drain. I think I have alot more wrong than meets the eye though, almost all the wiring on the drivers side fender is taped up because the insulation cracked right at the plugs. One time it would engage the starter when I hit the brakes!!! I think its time to strip it and make a new trailer to go behind the camper hauler.
