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I have a chance to get a 1984 F-150 4x4. It has an 8 inch suspension lift, 3 inch body lift 38x15.50x15 inch Gumbo Monster Mudders on 15x12 inch aluminum wheels. The tires are almost brand new. The body is perfect, other than needing a good pressure washing. It has a 351 windsor with a 4 spd manual tranny with granny 1st. The rear end has a detroit locker in it. The guy told me $2400. The motor is not in the truck. He is also going to include a 289 HiPo V8, a 36x14.50 Grand Prix Spare, a set of 289 headers and a few carbs. My question is, is it worth $2400 or not.
i think so. I'm dropping about $1200 in regearing and rebuilding my axles and a locker. Plus those big tires are expensive, and the lift is $1000 bucks, so I think you are money ahead.
Jump on it.
Questions I would ask. Were the lift kits(suspension and body) installed professionally?
What's wrong with the engine?
What is the gear ratio of the differentials?
I find 11 total combined inches of lift on a truck that was notorious for cracking the frame around the steering box, and buckling in others, to be a tad on the extreme side of things without some frame modifications(bracing).
Let's add the stress that a set of 38 inch rubber is going to put on stock braking and steering parts. If the axles have not been re-geared to somewhere around 4.56:1, your performance is going to suffer, and so is your fuel mileage.
You could buy it. The gentleman obviously has some money sunk into it.
What I've found over the years, with projects like this. People often give up, after finding out what kind of a real night-mare they've really created.
So often people spend money on the cosmetics..the flashy paint, the tires, the lift...and forget about the important aspect. Does it actually work? Speaking from a mechanical point of view. The early 80's Fords were known for having a "swiss-cheese frame". They buckle and fold when un-due stress is put on them. Un-due stress would equate to the extreme amount of lift, the large tires, etc.
If the stock brakes were not upgraded, you'll be going through rotors, drums, pads and shoes...left right and center. A 38 inch tire is a large amount of un-sprung weight to be bringing to a dead stop.
If the gearing in the diff's was not lowered(higher, numerically) the over-all performance of the rig will leave a lot to be desired. You need to compensate for bigger tires by lowering the gearing. The only time this might not apply, is when a truck was bought with low rear gears, and a mildly bigger than stock tire was installed.
I'm not trying to dis-suade you from buying the truck. I would, how-ever, like to see you ask some more questions, and give us a heads up on what was all involved in the build-up of this rig. Otherwise, you might just be buying someone else's head-ache.
RR4E makes many good points, and all of them should be considered. I also agree that you should find out what stage of completion or frustration the project was in before the guy gave up. It sounds like a decent deal, but I'm sure there's a lot of work left to finish the truck.
However, I disagree with the following.
Originally Posted by RR4E
The early 80's Fords were known for having a "swiss-cheese frame". They buckle and fold when un-due stress is put on them. Un-due stress would equate to the extreme amount of lift, the large tires, etc.
Ford only used these frames in 80 and 81, then changed over to the unslotted frame that was used until 1996. These frames do not just buckle and fold at will, but are in fact less strong than their later counterparts. Look at the truck in my gallery - it does have a swiss cheese frame. This truck has been lifted and beat to hell and back since it was new in 1980, no frame damage. I just changed over to a straight axle two years ago. You biggest concern will be whether or not the lift is professionally built and installed. Your front crossmember is far more likely to crack than your frame is to bend. When you go to look at the truck, check the crossmember next to the axle pivot drop bracket. If there is no drop bracket, or the x-member is cracked, don't buy the truck.
I have seen the reciepts or the lift. It was professionally installed by the owner before him. Mybuddy's uncle had the truck and sold it to the guy who has it now.
If you want a lifted truck, buy it, but consider limitations as listed by others. You could pay that much just for the lift and tires, so a good looking/working truck is a bonus for the money spent. What are you wanting to do with it? Mileage, practical uses are limited, but then, it does sound cool to have a big honkin truck that can go anywhere!!
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