Ok....new question concerning my ongoing fixing up my '82 E100 I-6/300. No, it's not a moneypit...just some good TLC has been needed for a long time.

This about the Transmission oil pan/area area and oil drippage.

I have been noticing a short drip line in my dirt driveway and it at first, thought it was a friend's 70s Ford Maverick as he pulls in next to my van.
Nope.

I checked my transmission oil while in neutral (blocked wheels, of course) and it looked like it needed some as this had not been done in a while. I used the Dercon III like my husband uses in his 83 as this was all I had. The Chilton is confusing as it says ATF for this year van in one line and then it says the Dercon can be used in another.

The transmission does not shift hard....you cannot really feel it shift into any of the gears. It's that smooth. Only it has a slight delay when first going out in "drive" and give it a slight more gas to engage. Just have not been driving it much for awhile because of rewiring and brakework to be done first.

Hate to think I put in a wee bit too much....but the stick looked right. Anyway, I took it out to check out something else (wheelbearing noises). Came back, turned it off and looked at any indication of a drip on the road. Well, there was...and abit more of it. I looked underneath (for the first time) and saw a slow intermittant drip in front of the transmission oil pan which did eventually stop. There was some transmission oil beads on the underside of the pan where the any droplets would have been blown back while driving. The rear seal looked ok.

Now, the gasket is new as the former mechanic owner went through the transmission as well as the engine before I got it. But I have read that Fords do have a problem with some oil leakage? Especially a van this old. The transmission is in very good condition and shifts fine otherwise.

I am wary of anything like this after a similar problem we had with my son's 79 Cordoba and a transmission leak that we thought was from a rear seal that needed replacing. (turned out whomever had the car before him did not smooth the edges of a broken transmission line before slipping a rubber over it. The rough cut edges wore a hole through the rubber and neither of us thought this would be the cause.)

Why I went under to check any transmission lines just in case for the same reason. The line is fine (thank goodness) Am I looking at needing to replace the gasket? (argh) Or just to tighten the bolts

Just bought new front wheel bearings as the passenger front tire is making noise and feels loose. Have a set for the Driver's side which is not as bad ....but best to replace both while at it. (Had a passenger front wheel bearing go out on my own 79 Cordoba a couple of years ago and knew the sound)

Appreciate any comments.

 

My '86 dipstick tube didn't seal correctly at the tranny when I reinstalled it. Had a little leak from there until I changed the o-ring at the bottom of the tube. Hopefully yours is that easy.
Munrow

 

In '82 its probably got a C6 auto in it. Do you have the owners manual for it? I'm wondering if the spec isn't really Type F ATF instead of the MERCON...

 

No, it did not come with an owner's manual, unfortunately. For that matter neither did my husband's 83 E150.

I just looked the Chilton's and this is what it says

Ford C4 3speed 1975-81 E100, E150 w/6 cyl.
Ford C6 3 speed 1975-87 All models
Ford AOD 4 speed 1983-87 All W/6-300, 8-302
(My husband's 83 E150 8-302 has AOD)

Oil specs
C4: Type F
C6: Mercon 1977 and later
All Models: Mercon

(It also says to check the Transmission oil while running in "Park"?! I was always told to check it while in "Neutral")

See what I mean?

I bought the Mercon from a local store as that was all they had. They were out of Type F. I believe this is used when my mechanic friend used when filling the transmission after checking it. He uses this for his 96 Truck that is also a I-6/300. Any Fords I had in the past we used Type F in (76 Granada, 71 LTD) although my son's 94 Ford Tempo uses Mercon. My husband generally carries Type F for his van although he has had to to use Mercon.

Confusing.

Will be replacing the wheelbearings tomorrow and check the pan bolts at the same time.

 

Usually the fluid spec is on the dipstick as well.

 

You should be using type Mercon Automatic Transmission Fluid. Type F was phased out of Ford Transmissions during the 70's. Automatic Transmission fluids are the most highly specialized of lubricants and different types should not be substituted. One big difference in the different types of trans fluid is the addition (or not) of friction modifiers. Type F automatic transmission fluid is still recommended for many power steering units.

Last word of caution, you cant go entirely by product name or description. For example in my owners manual it says to use Premium Power Steering Fluid (ESW-M2C33-F) in my 95E150 power steering unit. Well I would be screwed if I went to the store looking for high quality premium power steering fluid. The spec (ESW-M2C33-F) is what we all know as Type ATF transmission fluid.

So anyway, you don't need type ATF except for your power steering fluid. Don't use any products that say all purpose transmission fluid. Go with MERCON on the label.

There is a wealth of information on these topics all over the web.

Just do a search from google on automatic transmission fluid Mercon ford C6 and you will find some great reading.

 

pfogle....this is nothing on the dipstick except the holes, an arrow and "Add". The stick is original and only a couple from other vehicles, I've had, had any specs stamped on them.

Well, I will stick with the Mercon as that is what I can generally get anymore. Except for the Cordobas, all I have ever used for powersteering was transmission fluid. Learned that from my father in law after I got married 33 years ago. He was a master mechanic and I used to watch him. Most of what our son has learned about older autos was working with "Grandpa".

My husband will work on his own vehicles if he has to but not happy unless he is bladesmithing.

 

The pan seems to be ok. Will just have to keep an eye on it for now because of other concerns that need taking care of.

Had to replace the Passenger side inner wheelbearing.....all the needle bearings had dropped out of it a long time ago. It's a wonder it lasted so long...for that matter that it didnt make noise when my friends drove it out from Phoenix six months ago. But it didnt. The sound only started up a few days ago when I drove it a couple of times to Bouse and back (13 miles round trip each time). But they had only checked out the engine/transmission and did mention they had not had a chance to do much else before the wife went in for surgery last year. The guy they got it from just said it drove fine.

Well it did despite missing some parts in both rear brakes that I found and had replaced recently. Amazing what some of the older trucks/cars will get by with. Nowadays, a piddley minor thing will cause a new car to shut down completely....and cost an arm/leg to have fixed.

The spindel was still in good shape, not roughed up nor bent (thank goodness) Dont have a junk yard in my area anymore if I had to replace it and I hate to think how much a new one would cost. The outer bearing was ok, though. So my hunch about the sound was right. Strange, usually it's the outer bearing needing replacement. In any case, we replaced both inner and outer. Will be working on the Driver's side tomorrow (if it doesnt rain).

Replaced the Passenger side brake hose at the same time as the rubbercovering was rotten and cracked over the fiber. Nothing wrong with the fiber hose but..... Went ahead and bought a new Driver's side brake hose as I figure it may need replacing too. Best to have both these new while changing the wheelbearings.

Passenger side control arm bushing is worn but still serviceable. Will get both sides replaced shortly....if one is worn, you can bet the Driver's side needs it too.

Next will be the radiator. It has started to leak through a couple of holes even after Bars Leak was put in. Not too bad and only after the engine is shut off...even if you idle it before doing so. But enough to consider replacing it with a new one if my husband cannot rod it out/repair it. Our Arizona Summer is just really starting and I just as soon get an new OEM radiator for it. A local autoparts shop has one for $150.

Like I said, just some good TLC as this thing was a worktruck before my friends found it. They told me what they did and what was not done. So all this was not unexpected and still driveable now as it stands. I just want to get all the dollar stuff done now so I do not get "nickel and dimed" to death later.

 

Did you find the tranny leak? As to the radiator, if it is leaking a tiny bit after you shut it down, then it is leaking while you are driving, after it comes to full pressure. While you are driving, the tiny bit of leakage it being blasted by the fan and doesn't show on the engine. I experienced the same situation after making contact with an obstruction in the road, and bending my radiator enough for this effect to occur.
Munrow

 

I figure radiator is leaking a little while driving. I can see the two spots on the engine side midway where the water has been coming out. Just after the initial pressure leakage when turning off, it stops. but that leakage is not as bad as before I put in the bars leak though. I am still going to replace the radiator after my next payment decorating a couple of daggers. This way there is no worry about any more leakage.

As for the tranny leak, yeah I saw where it was coming from. A spot on the front edge of the pan.

Replaced both Driver's side wheelbearings. There was nothing left of the inner one although the outer was ok. Fortunately, the spindal was still in good shape.

I finally got a Haynes book on older Ford Vans to keep with mine. (what I called the "control arm" is actually called the "reflex arm"...just used to car nomanclature)
Some of the explanations and diagrams are better than my husband Chilton's on the same subject. Between the two, should have most things covered on any repairs/maintance.

The "customizing" inside the "box" can wait until all the important stuff is attended to in driving it. I have met people who have bought vehicles where the bodies look good but the engine and undercarriage is not. Some people's priorities are misplaced.

The couple I traded mine from, recently found another van... a 72 Dodge Conversion with a new engine. I told them what I found and suggested checking out the bearings if havent already. They hadn't yet as everything sounded ok when they got it. Well, last week they went to take it in for emissions testing when a wheelbearing noise cropped up. Good thing as they planned to go on a long trip this weekend with their 4 year old son.

I learned long ago not to take anything for granted with used vehicles. But sometimes you do get lucky.

 

According to the autozone website mercon is the correct fluid.

 

I thought 1972 was too old to have to do emissions testing?
If you have a few extra bucks, Helms, Inc. reprints old factory Ford repair literature. I got the complete service manual (three books and about 7 or 8 inches thick) for mine for about $160.00. It has part numbers for every single item on the vehicle. Has helped me a more than a few times when Haynes has just skimmed over a point or procedure.

 

I guess Maricopa County is different or the Greater Phoenix area rules otherwise. Dont know, as I do not live there.

I live in La Paz County and it does not have any emisssions testing. Pretty sparsely populated as it is to call for it.

Yes, I noticed Haynes does not go into detail in areas the Chilton's does. While in others, the Chiltons does similar.

pfolge...yes, I will stick to the Mercon.

 

No more leaks or weepage. Everything tight. Case solved.