removing oxidation from anodized
The best truck show on the net.May I suggest Googleing anodizing and you doing a little boning up on what it is. Ya gotta remove it with a caustic substance like lye, then you can polish the trim to it's original luster. There are a couple good comercial products out too.
Anyways, polishing the anodizing aint going anywhere.
John
I bought a grille from Ebay that was oxidized pretty bad and it wouldn't polish out either. I actualy used a horizontal grinder with a 3M polishing wheel and removed the anodized coating. I than had to use a rouge wheel and rouge to polish it out. I than used a high quality clear coat from Eastwood to cover it and protect it.
You can see the results in my gallery. The grill took me about 40 hours because of learning mistakes. POR-15 prep coat when applied will oxidize the surface again so don't go there.
jd
dave
Last edited by daveengelson; Jun 20, 2005 at 09:28 AM.
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It's a chemical solution that looks like powdered detergent. ( Sodium
Hydroxide ) You mix a small amount with water and then soak your aluminum
part in it for about 10 - 15 minutes, sometimes longer. During that time
the part will start to react with the solution and the hard anodized
surface on the part will dissolve into the solution. (the solution starts
to fizz and bubble)
After you feel it's all gone, you rinse the part off with clean
water and the part will have a very dull, but smooth appearance. Then you
polish it just like you would any other piece of aluminum that you'd want
a nice finish on. This is also a good time to work out any dents or
scratches you need to fix. You can use buffing compounds, Wenol, Mothers,
etc. Then you have the option of either applying some kind of clear to
protect it, like POR-15's "Glisten PC". Eastwood has a clear also, but
it didn't hold up well when I tried it on some trim for another project.
Some people opt to just keep the aluminum shinned up and waxed
periodically, with Mothers, Eagle wadding polish, semichrome polish,
Wenol, Zoops, etc. If your car's not out in the weather all the time that may be
OK. If it's going to see weather it might be best to cover it.
This little jar will make several gallons of solution. If you
save it in jugs you can keep it for years. I have some several years old
that is still strong.
Good luck, Phil
( 63 1/2 Galaxie - 64F-100 4x4 )
Village Buffing Supplies
Boyd & Reba Hardin
902 East 22nd. St.
Kannapolis, NC 28083
Phone - 704-933-0084
Fax - 704-933-4180
E-mail - villbuff@vnet.net
Link - www.Villagebuffing.com
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Clear is the hardest to do right thats why most shops charge so much.
Theres been several articles in car craft about five years or so ago on how to do it your self. I did a ton of bike parts back then.
44dwarf
Another method is build a box and line it with a heavy plastic to hold the liquid.
CAUTION: Read all labels on the product container. You will be dealing with a dangerious compound, that can cause burns to living tissue both human & or animal. Eye protection & rubber gloves are a must. I would recommend that you do it outside with a charged water hose close by. Water will dilute the mixed material should you get it on you. Keep pets and small children out of the work area.
Be careful & safe
John
The local sounds like a good idea, but start with a sample piece first to see how it comes out.
You can build a box for the grill pretty easily. Should you have a table that you aren't using, make a frame from 1X4s 4-6" larger than the grill and lay in a piece of 4-6mil poly. The plastic is your bowl/box.
Stay in touch with your outcome and the method that you used.
John
Handx please let us know how it turns out, and post some pictures of the finished product.
jd







