help deciding on system
hello,
i am now looking for a new HU, 2 subs(12-15 in),1 amp, and 4 door replacement of stock speakers. my previous system was stolen from my car last week on vacation, which included...
ALPINE...
9835 HU
(2) 1241D subs (12 in)
m501 AMP
(which was about $700 total on ebay,about half the retail value then)
First i must say i fell in love with this system (and i will put a security system in it this time) from the first time i heard/felt it. however, since insurance will pay me about 3k (100 cds were stolen and other stuff too) because they cover the replacement cost, i plan to use a lot of it to upgrade my previous system because money is no longer as much of a problem...(although i am about to enter college, so nothing too expensive
i loved my old all alpine system, but is there any other specific models/company's that may serve me better in my new system?i am looking for suggestions on an amp mostly, because i am about set to get the 9835 HU again(loved it)
-im between the 1242D X or D series subs (is the x worth the extra money?) any other good quality subs that would work better?or should i go 15 inch?
-i guess the alpine 5x7 type s and 6x9 type s for the front and rear, but really don't know much about what to get here because i had left them stock before. would other company's mix well with my HU, and what specific models would you recommend if not these?
-AMP-
if i go alpine, maybe m1005 or m605? i don't think they make the m501 anymore, and honestly i can say i know what the advantages are of having multi channel amps (or is it used to add other amps or something)?these are mono that i listed, and i guess thats all i would need ...i know little about amps.
if you have any suggestions please let me know, again im looking for improvements on everything, many times people want specifically loud music or quality, but i want both, extremely loud music that vibrates from a mile away, but at the same time, amazing quality that wont crack when its cranked up (or turned low for my mother.) id prefer to keep the 9835 HU, and i seem to hear the best things about alpine products, so i may want to stick with them. and btw, i listen to just about all types of music, but mostly rap (50 cent...), alt.(greenday and stuff), and country....(im still a red neck in heart)
or maybe i should get a DVD player as my HU so i can watch seinfeld while i drive, that will be safe...lol...
-dan
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http://www.cadencestore.com/ProductC...p?idCategory=3
xcellent brand ,and top specs.
where are you planing on putting subs, and what kind of mounting depth are you looking at? Also are you wanting to put amp on door speakers? And where did your truck get broken into so i knoiw where not to go J/K.
For a fraction of the cost of what you'd expect to dish out for the flashy mass-marketed components (the ones that all the major stores like Best Buy and Circuit City carry), Cadence is in a class of it's own. Let me break it down into the core elements of sound reproduction to help you better understand the complexity of the car audio world...
Sensitivity - This is the clarity (and more specifically, accuracy) at which sound is reproduced. Sensitivity is measured in dB. Most brands like Alpine, Kicker, Eclipse, ect. run anywhere from 81dB to 89db. This might not sound like a big difference, but remember, every + or - 3dB is twice or half as loud. Cadence runs NO LOWER than 91dB and usually over 95dB. Their mids and highs are at 99dB-102dB. This is all measured at 1 watt of power at 1 meter. So, per 1 watt of power, my speaker will run x dB at 1 meter. (This is sensitivity)
Power - This is what raises your hair, Tickles your chest, and even possibly breaks your windows. Now... here's where most speaker companies try to jack up their ratings to sell more speakers. High power ratings are not what determines the quality of a driver (speaker). That's clarity. Power Handling basically is a statement of the internals of the speaker. High numbers USUALLY means a quality product (but if the sensitivity is low, it will sound like crap). Don't expect a "1,500 watt" sub to sound even half as loud as a 600 watt sub. It's all a matter of how well it can reproduce sound.
Size - Yeah, it matters.
8 - Rarely used by themselves... for the super high-end bass frequencies (500 Hz)
10 - Used for the high-end bass frequencies (300-500 Hz)
12 - Most common. Awesome response from (20-400+ Hz)
15 - Deep Bass (15 - 200 Hz)
18 - Rare... DEEP Bass (10 - 150 Hz) These eat power like no tomorrow
32 - Only one company makes them... It's a big air conditioner (sounds like ****)
Frequency - The "pitch" of the sound. This is measured in Hz (hertz). What is a Hz? A "hertz" is a frequency that is more of a time scale. take 1 Hz for example, all it means is per second, the speaker is fully going through its full motion (excursion) one time. for 60 Hz, it moves through it's full excursion 60 times per second. (30 times in, 30 times out.) In normal music (even the deepest bass songs you hear) the lowest bass you will experience is about 22-25 Hz. You cannot hear anything below 15 i believe.
That is pretty much the core elements of sound reproduction. Now, as far as Cadence goes... I have yet to see a brand of speakers top anything they have, except their head units. For those, stick with Alpine. Cadence rocks MBQuartz and Focal in mids and highs (and I run Focal in my truck), Cadence POUNDS Eclipse Titanium’s and JL w7's in bass, and electrifies everything but Zapco when it comes to amps.
I've done my research, and I promise you Cadence is the best out there as of now. Show me something better, and I'll do the same thing I did with this company. And dont even get me started on the marketing of speaker companies... that's a whole different rant.
Hope this helps. PM me with your specific application and I'll tell you EXACTLY what you need
Last edited by _eazy_; Jun 20, 2005 at 12:06 AM.
Subs.....
http://www.cadencestore.com/ProductC...5&idproduct=68
door speakers..
http://www.cadencestore.com/ProductC...&idproduct=116
amp for door speakers..
http://www.cadencestore.com/ProductC...9&idproduct=31
amp for subs...
http://www.cadencestore.com/ProductC...7&idproduct=10
That would be PERFECT in explorer.
I would recommend that setup over ANY . Xcellent SPL and SQ.
what you think?
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also if i did decide to go with cadence, what type of prices are we talken here, just so i have a rough idea, i dont see any on their site...and can someone explain the whole channel thing in the amps to me, still alittle confused with that part of them.
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I am about to switch my Focal mids and highs out with all Cadence CVL series. The stats are AMAZING on the CVL's and I had the chance to hear them for the first time a week ago. I can't wait to get it all hooked up. Again, the difference will be night and day.
You will get 75 watts to each speaker in your doors. You HU is only pushing about 20 if that RMS to speakers. And the ZRS-9 at 1 ohm will give you 1000 watts per sub.. which at 95 db will be plenty. you WONT want anymore lol.
also if i did decide to go with cadence, what type of prices are we talken here, just so i have a rough idea, i dont see any on their site...and can someone explain the whole channel thing in the amps to me, still alittle confused with that part of them.
1 Channel Amp is usually called a Class D Mono Block Sub Amp. Reason being is that 1 Channel means 1 speaker.
2 Channel amp is again usually for subs, but CAN be used for one set of mids and highs.
4 Channel amps are for 2 sets (front/rear) or mids and highs
5 Channel amps are for 2 sets of mids and highs plus a sub. These are used primarily to save money due to the fact that they usually don't supply enough power to each speaker, and mainly the sub.
Go with a 1 Channel Amp for 2 subs (you bridge the subs so the amp thinks it's one speaker)
Go with a 4 Channel Amp for your mids and highs.
email me for prices. starns70(at symbol)hotmail.com
what the best setup for the money you want to spend.






