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Old Dec 4, 2005 | 12:01 PM
  #16  
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Talking Truck?

Well I tried spraying silicone up into the tower area and anywhere else I could see where it would possibly help, but to no avail. Took it back to car max and they discovered it was a tie rod end, and they made the repair under the warranty.

But, Tony, with all due respect...calling this Escape a truck falls along the same lines as calling a moped a motorcycle...it just doesn't compute.
 
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Old Dec 4, 2005 | 12:31 PM
  #17  
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The famous creaking... Me too at 65K The problem for me is the table bushings after lookinging all over the suspension. I spray them with silicone spray ant its good for a few days or maybe 10 days. I haven't found any aftermarket bushings or kits anywhere and I hate the idea of spending $300. for replace the tables since they appear to be fine and mimimum wear. But i guess in spring I will because its very aggravating. But if anyone knows a place to get just the rubber bushings I would love the source... Tks
 
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Old Dec 4, 2005 | 02:39 PM
  #18  
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Old Dec 4, 2005 | 04:04 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by Tomm
Well I tried spraying silicone up into the tower area and anywhere else I could see where it would possibly help, but to no avail. Took it back to car max and they discovered it was a tie rod end, and they made the repair under the warranty.

But, Tony, with all due respect...calling this Escape a truck falls along the same lines as calling a moped a motorcycle...it just doesn't compute.
You may or may not be right...All I know in the State of New Jersey when I pay for my registration I pay the rate of a TRUCK....The Ford Escape and any SUV in New Jersey are classified as trucks...in other words your registration fee is based on the weight of the vehicle, like trucks...How many times did I use the word "truck" in my reply?
 
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Old Dec 4, 2005 | 05:20 PM
  #20  
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If you go searching through the EPA website, a truck designation is met by having a "flat load floor". Manufacturers prefer the truck designation since they can meet lower MPG numbers.

I pay truck taxes in Texas (less expensive) but in all honesty, it's closer to the dreaded "station wagon" design.
 
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Old Dec 7, 2005 | 06:55 AM
  #21  
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In Indiana, we have a bit more room to choose. You can plate even a station wagon as a truck. I'm under the impression the state figures if it doesn't have a locking trunk, it can be called a truck. In retrospect; you can plate an SUV, a station wagon, or even a full sized window van as a car. One would do this to be able to drive these vehicles on roads that do not allow vehicles on them with truck plates. An example of this would be Lake Shore Drive in Chicago.
 
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Old Dec 7, 2005 | 09:01 AM
  #22  
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The creaking on my 2005 Mazda Tribute (Escape twin) sounds like the same problem VBCWIZARD is having. It started at 5k and is still happening at 15k. One dealer I brought it to said they heard it, but since there was no Technical Service Bulletin about this problem they didn't know what to fix.

When I first start moving from a stop it makes a creaking/rattling right when the torque converter engages. It's much worse when it is cold outside and goes away after 10-15 minutes. Mine is at the dealer today and they think it's the front right suspension. I'll let you know after I try it out in the cold tomorrow morning.
 
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Old Dec 7, 2005 | 09:19 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by ScottS
The creaking on my 2005 Mazda Tribute (Escape twin) sounds like the same problem VBCWIZARD is having. It started at 5k and is still happening at 15k. One dealer I brought it to said they heard it, but since there was no Technical Service Bulletin about this problem they didn't know what to fix.

When I first start moving from a stop it makes a creaking/rattling right when the torque converter engages. It's much worse when it is cold outside and goes away after 10-15 minutes. Mine is at the dealer today and they think it's the front right suspension. I'll let you know after I try it out in the cold tomorrow morning.
Thanks! I still have this creaking noise. The last time I was at dealer they told me that it would take almost a week for the to diagnose the noise. I get the feeling that they may fix one problem and at the same time cause another. I will take it in after the holidays.
 
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Old Dec 27, 2005 | 09:30 AM
  #24  
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Creaking noise NOT fixed

Noise not fixed! My dealer replaced the front right bushings and the wheel bearing, but the creaking/rattling is still there. The most annoying part is they didn't bother to test drive it after replacing these parts to see if it fixed the noise. When I questioned the dealer I was told "the Mazda technician is hard of hearing, so he probably couldn't hear anything anyway." Great answer.

So, the noise is still there. When I start moving from a stop it makes a creaking/rattling right when the torque converter engages. It's worse when it's cold outside and goes away after 10-15 minutes. It's less noticable in reverse.<!-- / message --><!-- no sigs except when logged in -->
 
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Old Dec 27, 2005 | 09:53 AM
  #25  
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My creaking has gone away. I think that it had something to do with the break pads. Anyway Scott, keep us informed.
 
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Old Dec 27, 2005 | 06:28 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by ScottS
The most annoying part is they didn't bother to test drive it after replacing these parts to see if it fixed the noise. When I questioned the dealer I was told "the Mazda technician is hard of hearing, so he probably couldn't hear anything anyway." Great answer.
Great! You've got a parts replacer and not a mechanic. Ask them if the kid that gets paid $8 an hour in the oil bay can ride along with Mr. Deaf.
 
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Old Dec 27, 2005 | 06:49 PM
  #27  
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I took my car to the dealership and they said it was the lower ball joints. Car is squeak free now. Also the noise when turning the steering wheel had to do with power steering. They flushed the line and that did the trick
 
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Old Jan 27, 2006 | 04:42 PM
  #28  
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Creaking noise continues + new noises

The creaking noise that happens when I first start to move is still here. It started at 5,200 miles and I now have 16,000 miles (15 months). Dealer reset transmission and replaced front bushings and bearing, but the sound is still there. In fact, it's getting worse and lasting longer. The dealer keeps promising to get a Mazda regional rep to come look at my car, but I've been waiting 1-1/2 months for that step to happen.

Will I get any response if I call the customer assistance line or write a letter to the CEO? What methods can I use besides talking to the dealer who forgets about my problem as soon as I walk out the door?

I've also got some new noises...

The second noise is a knocking/creaking in the driver's side A pillar. It happens when the body flexes on bumps or in turns. I'm going to try to rub silicone on the weather stripping as suggested by others on this board.

The third noise is an occasional power steering whine during slow speed turns. Should I worry about this?

I'm about ready to try Honda or Toyota.

ScottS
 
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Old Jan 27, 2006 | 08:26 PM
  #29  
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Writing the CEO won't help but I'd contact regional. Provide a copy of all paperwork and tell them they're just blowing you off. Keep ALL paperwork in case you need to fall back on the lemon laws.

Honda or Toy? We just dumped the wife's 02 Accord (30k miles) last summer. It's water pump died at 1k miles, the moonroof would never stop rattling and their 3.0 V6 could never get near the MPGs of my 02 3.0 V6 Escape. I could also tell you horror stories about Toy's 22R engine that would sling oil by 80k miles. Every manufacturer has issues.
 
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Old Jan 27, 2006 | 11:15 PM
  #30  
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I presume you bought or leased this car new? If you paid cash, can't help you. If you took out a loan or leased it, STOP MAKING PAYMENTS IMMEDIATELY! If the bank or leasing company wants to know where your payments are, tell them as soon as my car is fixed the right way I will start paying for it again...see how fast they make the necessary repairs..
 
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