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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

302 rough idle

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Old Sep 24, 1999 | 08:31 PM
  #1  
Dave Legg's Avatar
Dave Legg
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302 rough idle

I have a 302 from a 74 van with a rough idle. I noticed after installing new headers that the paint on cylinders number 2 and 7 is not burned off like the rest of the pipes. I have changed plugs and plug wires but the problem persists.
With it at idle I can pull the number 7 wire from the dist. cap and nothing changes. Also I have no vacume at the hose to the distributor advance can.
Next step is a new dist. cap and take it from there. Could it be a bad carb. making the 2 and 7 cylinders not run right Also the lable on the valve cover says to run at 6 degrees advance? I thought it was supposed to be ten degrees. HELP
 
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Old Sep 27, 1999 | 07:28 AM
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302 rough idle

Yes,checking the cap and rotor is a good idea,but what did the plugs in those two cylinders look like when you removed them? Also,when you pulled the wire off, did you hear {or feel-ouch!}the spark jumping the gap,indicating spark was available? Finally,you should have a compression check done on all 8 for the sake of it.Sometimes it might just be stuck rings that can be loosened up by an overnight soaking with a product like B-12 Liquid Carb Clean poured down the cylinder.Be sure to crank the engine with the plug[s] removed to blowout any liquid left over in the morning.Here are 2 off the wall things I have seen that will drive you crazy; broken reluctor teeth & a module that had a mind of it's own,effectively taking out a cylinder in the firing order at random!Good luck.
Phillip
 
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Old Sep 27, 1999 | 02:59 PM
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302 rough idle

 
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Old Aug 17, 2008 | 10:35 AM
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Rough idle solution

Hey folks if you have these symptoms before you go through a lot of trouble looking for an electrical problem CHECK THE EGR VALVE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I recently rebuilt a 302 and had a rough idle & could pull the #7 wire off with no change, the EGR valve was stuck open, tapped the vale to get it to shut and the problem went away!
 
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Old Aug 24, 2008 | 03:20 AM
  #5  
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Originally Posted by Half-Fast Racer
Hey folks if you have these symptoms before you go through a lot of trouble looking for an electrical problem CHECK THE EGR VALVE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I recently rebuilt a 302 and had a rough idle & could pull the #7 wire off with no change, the EGR valve was stuck open, tapped the vale to get it to shut and the problem went away!
Nothing like a massive vacuum leak to **** off the nearest cylinder. Might want to check the PVC valve and the vacuum line to the brake booster also.
But like someone else mentioned, do a compression check and read the plugs.
 
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