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I have a 302 from a 74 van with a rough idle. I noticed after installing new headers that the paint on cylinders number 2 and 7 is not burned off like the rest of the pipes. I have changed plugs and plug wires but the problem persists.
With it at idle I can pull the number 7 wire from the dist. cap and nothing changes. Also I have no vacume at the hose to the distributor advance can.
Next step is a new dist. cap and take it from there. Could it be a bad carb. making the 2 and 7 cylinders not run right Also the lable on the valve cover says to run at 6 degrees advance? I thought it was supposed to be ten degrees. HELP
Yes,checking the cap and rotor is a good idea,but what did the plugs in those two cylinders look like when you removed them? Also,when you pulled the wire off, did you hear {or feel-ouch!}the spark jumping the gap,indicating spark was available? Finally,you should have a compression check done on all 8 for the sake of it.Sometimes it might just be stuck rings that can be loosened up by an overnight soaking with a product like B-12 Liquid Carb Clean poured down the cylinder.Be sure to crank the engine with the plug[s] removed to blowout any liquid left over in the morning.Here are 2 off the wall things I have seen that will drive you crazy; broken reluctor teeth & a module that had a mind of it's own,effectively taking out a cylinder in the firing order at random!Good luck.
Phillip
Hey folks if you have these symptoms before you go through a lot of trouble looking for an electrical problem CHECK THE EGR VALVE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I recently rebuilt a 302 and had a rough idle & could pull the #7 wire off with no change, the EGR valve was stuck open, tapped the vale to get it to shut and the problem went away!
Hey folks if you have these symptoms before you go through a lot of trouble looking for an electrical problem CHECK THE EGR VALVE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I recently rebuilt a 302 and had a rough idle & could pull the #7 wire off with no change, the EGR valve was stuck open, tapped the vale to get it to shut and the problem went away!
Nothing like a massive vacuum leak to **** off the nearest cylinder. Might want to check the PVC valve and the vacuum line to the brake booster also.
But like someone else mentioned, do a compression check and read the plugs.