Well after weeks, I now know I have to replace the whole wire harness. He Is unable to find the problem but he does know the problem Is In the harness.. This time I am going to be there and help so I know what Is done to my truck. The only question now Is can anyone suggest a good way to get a wire harness?? Should I go to a junk yard again?? Should I buy a new one? Which I know will cost me.. What Is the best way to get a hold of a part like this?? I don't think I can go down to my local Autozone and get It..

 

I'd start with the one he ripped out to begine with. Where di this one go and why was it ever replaced to begin with?

One thing for sure is you can't use one out of a California car - I assume since you're in Ohio that you don't have a CA car. The difference is multiport vs sequential fuel injection - injectors are wired differently. And it might also need to be out of the same transmission car - i.e. automatice to automatic. This really depends on how much of the harness is changed. Automatics have different sensors/connectors than the manuals do.

Junk yards, eBay...There are also many nation wide junk yard search engines on the web. You just type in what you are looking for and it sends an email to a hundred or so junk yards. just type in "explorer wiring harness" into google and you're bound to get a few of these junk yard search engines to come up.

Honestly, this guy you using must be a real moran - and sorry if he's a personal friend. But really, he's got probably less than 10 wires to trace out for ground or open loop. You know the problem is between the ICM/PCM and coil.

Another thing - go to the Autozone web site and look under chasis electrical and then wiring diagrams. They have a great listing of all the Explorer diagrams. You can look at this one for 5 minutes and understand how the entire ignition system works. Then you can probably find and fix the problem yourself.

 

First Off It Is not a CA car as far as I know. Ok, I don't know If this Is true or not but from what I was told. The original Engine that had to be replaced was a 93 model year Engine In a 94 Explorer. And the new engine that he got for me was a 94 model year Engine from a 94 Explorer. I am lost. The wire harnesses were different. So he had to change them out and he Is telling me that I can not use the original harness to fix my problem because It will not match up. As for tracing the short. He Is either unwilling or uncapable Of finding the problem but he Is willing to pull the Engine apart again to put In a new Harness as long as I buy It and help him. It don't make any since. Jharger you have helped me out so much and as always I thank you for all of your help. Yes this guy Is a moran but with all your help I hope to get this solved very soon..

 

James this guy is wrong, just wrong. There were no changes from 93 to 94 that would justify any changes to the engine wiring harness. Not even a single connector. Ask him what specifically would not fit up and ask him to show you the old one and the new one so you can physically see the difference. Then let me know if it is different and I'll eat the crow. It shouldn't be difficult to lie the old one right next to the new one since it was completely removed from a car - Humm..that is if he still has it. I wonder if he needed it for another project?

I've been looking at the 94 wiring diagrams lately to help some other folks out in here. Now I haven't done a line by line comparision but nothing glaringly different caught my eye. And another thing, there was a TSB from Ford in 94 that changed many of the PCM's to a 94 year. Mine was affected and the dealer did change it out. There was just a slight adjustment to the start up and cold run A/F tables to richen it up to prevent it from stalling - no big deal. But the point is that a lot of trucks were updated by only swiching the PCM, not a wiring harness. Thus it tells me that the PCM end of the harness is the same - all inputs/outputs are still on the same pins. So the function of the wiring harnesses in 93 and 94 is exactly the same. it just so happens that the 49 state automatics were not affected by this TSB - i.e. yours (I think you have an auto right?) But that's probably only because the manuals would be more prone to stalling when people can't drive a clutch right. I think all the CA Explorers and Rangers were changed but this is more likely to do with the SFI and CA emission requirements.

And please do yourself a favor, if have not already, and go to the autozone web site, print out the 93 and 94 wiring diagrams and see if they are different but more importantly get to understand the system. Then with this knowledge you can really get this guy to help you fix it or tell him to f off and get your old harness back and fix it yourself.

 

Oh crap - so i'll eat a little crow here. But even then I am not 100% sure. So the TSB to change the PCM's out for the 93 models changed a 93 year PCM out with a 94 year PCM. The part numbers start F4 for the new ones. F means 1990's, 4 means 04 so 1994.

OK, my car is a California car so it has sequential fuel injection, standard in 93+, for CA, maybe earlier years too. The TSB gave it a 94 PCM. I've seen the same part number for this PCM listed as coming off non-CA cars. And as I check the 94 wiring diagram, CA and non-CA are both wired with independent out puts off the PCM to each individual injector. This tells me that Ford went SFI on all Explorers in 1994. they could still program the PCM to fire 3 injectos at a time and run as MFI, but why change the pinouts in this way to enable SFI if you're not going to use SFI?

Either way, the wiring harnesses would be different at the injector area for a 1993 fed car and any 1994 car. You said the 94 car had a 93 engine. It now has a 94 engine. If so, the 93 engine would still run off a 94 wiring harness and PCM - it would just be running SFI - no big deal. And then when the new 94 engine went itno it, the wiring harness would be transparent and it would hook up just fine.

The ignition side of the house would be the same. I checked the pinouts for PIP and SPOUT on both are the same PCM pinout for CA and Fed and 93 to 94. So this enitre post has no affect on your coil issue.

Now if whoever put in the 93 engine into the 94 car, also changed out the wiring harness to a 93, (many people do this out of compatiability fears) then he would also have to change the PCM to a 93 because the way that the 93 harness wires all 3 injectors on one bank together and that 93 PCM only has 2 outputs to fire the injectors.

If the 94 PCM was not changed but the wiring harness was changed to a 93, then only 2 injectors and cylinders would have ever gotten gas and the 93 motor would have never run. I'm not sure if you ever had the old 93 engine running or not.

Likewise, if the 93 harness and PCM were in place with your new 94 engine, it would run fine but in MFI mode no SFI mode.

Now let's say the 93 engine, wirning harness and PCM were all put in before you got it. Now you just put in the 94 motor and the mechanic, for lake of better word, is paranoid and doesn't know about compatibility, and swaps in the 94 wiring harness, then your back to having just 2 cylinders/injectors every getting any gas. Then you new 94 motor would not have run at all, regarless of your coil problems.

You can check the year of your PCM by looking at it and reading the part number. If it starts out F3 it is 1993, if it starts out F4, it is 1994.

You best bet is to make sure you have a match PCM/wiring harness by year. That is first priority. Then if something is wrong in the harness, find it and fix it.

 

Well I got the truck back but It still does not run.. I also got the originial wire harness back.. But I don't know were to start. He never did any work on It and I am unable to find another wire harness for It. So I am going to start from square one and try to track It down. I know the problem has to do with my coil and the ignition system so I am going to start there. I have never done this before and for some reason I can't find anyone up here that I can trust to work on It for me so I am going to have to fix It myself.. You guys have been alot of help and I thank you and I will use all the Information you have given me to try and fix this as soon as I once and for all find out the true problem..

 

Start with the wiring diagrams. They list the wire color and Autozone's web site gives a good description of all the color codes and components. Check the PCM too like I mentioned to make sure if you are working a SFI of MFI ystem as you need the right harness for the PCM. PCM is located behind the right, passenger side, kick panel under the dash/glove box. Let's us now of any questions.

 

Ok I finally found someone that somewhat knows what they are doing and after over a week the truck Is running again. The short In the wire harness has been found and fixed. It will run and not burn up coils. Now for a new problem. It will not run right. It seems to be starving for gas. If I give It gas It will bog down and try to die. What could cause this?? I have replaced the coil, spark plugs, plug wires, and changed the oil. So what could be causing this problem?? I have also noticed when test driving It that I am still having a tranmission problem.. When it is cold it shifts fine when it gets up to operating temp it over revs when shifting from 1st to 2nd and from 2nd to 3rd, I am going to try to change the fluid and filter this weekend. any Ideas appreciated. Is there an adjustment I can do when I change the filter?
Thanks

 

There are band torque specs you can adjust. Unfortunately, I am not close to being even a novice on auto trans. I've always had manuals. Speaking of which, by now you should have purchased a repair manual. This will help a lot for all you questions.

As far as the engine, well you don't give it gas. You give it air when you hit the gas pedal. The engine management system gives it fuel. It's difficult to tell you what's going on without any CEL codes or being there to see it. May want to try with the fuel pressure regulator on the intake manifold.

Could still be electrical if the timing is way off. Hard to tell without more info.

What was shorted in the wiring harness, what line? Something from the EIC I suspect. And I guess Dialtone and I wer right with that one.

 

Well, I am still unsure what Is wrong with my truck. I have now had all 6 Injectors replaced which was why It was starving for gas, I was told the Injectors were not working right and needed to be replaced. I replaced the spark plugs and wires also.

After all of this I am still having problems.
It Is running good but with a miss and It Idles rough as If It wants to die but does not. What could be causing this ?? I haved replaced the coil, spark plugs and wires..

It Is still hard to start after It has been running a while and has gotten hot and I replaced the starter thinking that It was the problem but It Is still doing It. What could be causing this ??

And when I do drive It My Oil pressure gauge sits on high all the time now. Is that good ?? Also My alternator gauge will slowly start to go down as I drive the truck and I have replaced the Alternator and the battery. What am I missing here ??

Most of all It still overheats. I have flushed It and replaced the thermostat.. Could I have any more problems?? I have replaced and checked almost everything and I just don't know were to go from here but I can say It Is running again I just need to nail down these other problems..

 

Did you check the fuel pressure regulator on the intake manifold? 35-40 PSI is needed. I would have changed this before any injectors. If you have low pressure, you'll run lean and could overheat. But you should also be getting CEL and lean codes.

 

First off I am going to cure the overheating problem once and for all I hope by replacing the radiator. Because as I said before It did not start overheating until I put some stop leak In the radiator to seal a leak and that Is the only thing left to try..

The thing I need the help with the most Is my starting problem. Now that I have It running..

When the engine Is cold It will start fine but after I let It run for a while and then shut It off It will not restart until the engine has cooled down.

When the engine Is hot and I try to start It, It acts like I have a dead battery. The starter will turn very slow or not at all but once It cools down the battery will have all of Its power back and the starter will work fine.. What Is causing this to happen??

I have read through alot of these post today looking for a answer and the only thing that I came across Is to change the starter. Is the starter the problem ?? How can I find out If It Is ??

I thank you guys for any help you can give me on this problem..

 

If the fuel regulator was bad it would difficult to start no matter what the engine temp was. You have already replaced the starter so that's obviously not it. A bad battery would be bad cold or hot but when hot it would be even more bad. I can't recall if you ever changed the battery cables. Electricity doesn't like to flow when hot heat up a bad cable and you don't get enough current through to turn the motor. Did you check your timing? Should be a 10 BTDC witht the the octane short bar removed. If it is too advanced, it will be slow to turn over when hot. This last one is not likely but worth inspection since your rig has been through so much already.

When you get it all fixed,look what you can do - see my pics below I took this week in Sedona, AZ.

 

first off you have a beautiful truck and I would love to do that with my truck but not yet.. And I am not sure If the starter has been replaced or not. The guy that has been working on It for me has already shown me that he does not always replace what he says he does. Thats why I think It Is the starter. I have no proof that It has ever been replaced..

 

Well after all this time I finally got my Truck running and running good..It was the Flex plate that broke on my Flywheel thats why It would not start.

The shop dropped the transmission, replaced the Flywheel and Flex Plate and put It all back together. It cost me $1700 when It was all said and done.
They also had to replace my Catalytic converter (It was completely clogged)
the Neutral Start Switch and the vacuum diaphragm.

Now as I said after all of this for those of you that have been helping me with all the problems with this Truck, It Is running great. It does not miss anymore, It does not overheat and the transmission does not slip anymore, I can now start It after It has been running for a while and I am no longer losing battery or alternater power.

Now for the problems that are left.

First and most Important. I have a transmission leak. I am losing transmission fluid right were the transmission and engine come together. I took It back to the shop and they told me they checked the pump and the front seal when they had the transmission off and everything looked good so they did not replace anything so I would have to pay to get the transmission dropped again to check and fix the front seal..

What should I do? Is there anything I can use to seal the leak or should I drop the transmission and replace the seal?? I have read alot on here how the seal can be replaced and then go out a few months later, how should I handle this problem??

Second.. It Is still running rough. It Is not missing. It Is just not running right. I was told that my entire EGR system has been removed. Could that be causing the problem?
The shop told me not to worry about the EGR system. What do you guys think??

Third.. My 4x4 does not work. The shop told me that the transfer case and the 4x4 system were fine but that the motor that engages the 4x4 Is out. What motor Is this? were Is It and how hard Is It to replace?

And Last.. Is there any way of fixing my gas gauge without replacing my hole pump and sending unit?? I was told I could just replace the float but I have called almost every Ford dealer In my area and they will not just sell me the float and I have been told by more than a few people on here that I can just by the float and replace It. Can someone please tell me were I can buy just the float??? Please..

Let me know what you guys think. I could really use your opinions and suggestions..
It Is almost all fixed..