upgrading 79 fusebox
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Mountain Pass
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upgrading 79 fusebox
Hey all I am looking at upgrading my 79s fuse box since around here it is getting harder and harder to find the little short fuses on short notice the question I have i I am going to use my spare fusebox for my escort since most of the fuses are the same valuse just in blade type and the boxes are about the same size are therey any wiring considerations i need to look at other than making sure they are the same guage? any wigint you would recommend upgragint or anything like that?
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I know which fuse you speak of >
14 amp Blue Code fuse.
You're in luck < some aftermarket company has invented a buss fuse socket for blade style fuses.
I don't know the availablity of these or any other info.
You can of course just purchase a Blade style fuse box & re-circuit it to match the 79.
That's your other option.
In Canada we have Princess Auto for our needs like this
14 amp Blue Code fuse.
You're in luck < some aftermarket company has invented a buss fuse socket for blade style fuses.
I don't know the availablity of these or any other info.
You can of course just purchase a Blade style fuse box & re-circuit it to match the 79.
That's your other option.
In Canada we have Princess Auto for our needs like this
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Mountain Pass
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yeah the sockets would be cool but i was hoping to upgrade the box as i have added some extra stuff aftermarket stereo and amp and getting rdy to do locks and windows so i figured a upgrade would be a good thing just wasn't sure if anyone had anyupgrade suggestion on any existing wires
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The wiring can be disconnected off the back of the fuse box.
You will find more info in the electrical forum as swap is down with all sorts of years trucks.It isn't really specific to 73-79.
EDIT:
Drop by www.centechwire.com to see what they may have.
You will find more info in the electrical forum as swap is down with all sorts of years trucks.It isn't really specific to 73-79.
EDIT:
Drop by www.centechwire.com to see what they may have.
Last edited by Mil1ion; Jun 17, 2005 at 10:50 PM.
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Mountain Pass
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Hey all I am looking at upgrading my 79s fuse box since around here it is getting harder and harder to find the little short fuses on short notice the question I have i I am going to use my spare fusebox for my escort since most of the fuses are the same valuse just in blade type and the boxes are about the same size are therey any wiring considerations i need to look at other than making sure they are the same guage? any wigint you would recommend upgragint or anything like that?
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also one thing that is bothering me is if i want to put power to all the constant hot fuses on the fusebox should i run a consent wire for all of them or what? as the existing one only has 1 constant hot and the newone will have like 5
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also one thing that is bothering me is if i want to put power to all the constant hot fuses on the fusebox should i run a consent wire for all of them or what? as the existing one only has 1 constant hot and the newone will have like 5
Last edited by Mil1ion; Jun 19, 2005 at 06:43 PM.
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From: Virginia
also one thing that is bothering me is if i want to put power to all the constant hot fuses on the fusebox should i run a consent wire for all of them or what? as the existing one only has 1 constant hot and the newone will have like 5
If you are going to add more load, go ahead and run another about 10 gauge wire from the starter relay/bat + to the new section of the fuse box. You should also install a large circuit breaker or fuse out at the starter relay where the wire hooks to the bat +, to protect the new wire.
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Mountain Pass
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Mountain Pass
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I have a stupid question after i run the new 10 guage wire for the new constant fuses when connecting in the all the wires fome the fuse connextors should i just twist them all together and place them in the other end of the wire connector or is there a better way to do this?
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From: Virginia
I don't know if I am following what you are doing. I have never had a 79 fuse box apart, but usually the fuse boxes will have one connection for the constant hot. This one connection goes into the box and hooks to a "bar" that connects all the fuses together. This is the hot feed for the fuses. Then the other side of each fuse has a seperate wire that leaves the fuse, and serves whatever it is powering.
There are at least 2 bars(the correct term I guess is buss) in a fuse box. One is constant hot, and the other is from the keyswitch(hot in run). So you have two major divisions of fuses in the box. Plus you have some individual fuses fed from other things(like the instrument lighting fuse is fed from the headlight switch).
I am not sure if your box has another constant hot division or not. If it doesn't, you could just take your new wire and tie it to the constant hot you have now. This would essentially be just paralleling the original wire, making it able to handle more amperage.
What I would warn you though is, I would try to stay with the original size fuses that the box had. I would not exchange a lot of the 10, 15, 5, etc. fuses for say 25 or 30 amps, and then run a lot of load through the fuse box. It may not be able to handle it.
There are at least 2 bars(the correct term I guess is buss) in a fuse box. One is constant hot, and the other is from the keyswitch(hot in run). So you have two major divisions of fuses in the box. Plus you have some individual fuses fed from other things(like the instrument lighting fuse is fed from the headlight switch).
I am not sure if your box has another constant hot division or not. If it doesn't, you could just take your new wire and tie it to the constant hot you have now. This would essentially be just paralleling the original wire, making it able to handle more amperage.
What I would warn you though is, I would try to stay with the original size fuses that the box had. I would not exchange a lot of the 10, 15, 5, etc. fuses for say 25 or 30 amps, and then run a lot of load through the fuse box. It may not be able to handle it.
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From: Virginia
Pull all the fuses out of the new box, and pick some that you think are hot all the time, and others that were hot in run. Take a meter, put it on ohms, and read the fuse blades in the box, to see if any of them are connected internally. Like I said, I haven't taken apart a 79 fuse box, so I don't know how they did it, but the same bar set-up in the old box was re-created somehow in the new box. It's the way it's done, but I don't know exactly how they did it for your particular box.
Your house fuse box is the same. Power comes in from the power company, and is hooked to bars or what they call buss bars that run the length of the fuse panel. Then the individual fuses or breakers mount to the bars and then the power is distributed out to the individual wires to the different rooms.
Your house fuse box is the same. Power comes in from the power company, and is hooked to bars or what they call buss bars that run the length of the fuse panel. Then the individual fuses or breakers mount to the bars and then the power is distributed out to the individual wires to the different rooms.
