Door Wiring
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Door Wiring
Has anyone out there ever discovered an aftermarket rubber door boot to run the speaker wiring to the doors?
I hate looking at exposed wiring running through the doors and I'm not sure if I'm willing to cut holes in the truck to install Jamb-Tacs.
Since I'm considering keyless entry and possibly power windows, I'm not sure if Jamb-Tacs would offer enough circuits anyway.
I've seen a few possible options at the wrecking yard, but I'm wondering what the installation looked like back in 78.
My truck has been in the family since new and never came with any speakers in the door when it was new.
I hate looking at exposed wiring running through the doors and I'm not sure if I'm willing to cut holes in the truck to install Jamb-Tacs.
Since I'm considering keyless entry and possibly power windows, I'm not sure if Jamb-Tacs would offer enough circuits anyway.
I've seen a few possible options at the wrecking yard, but I'm wondering what the installation looked like back in 78.
My truck has been in the family since new and never came with any speakers in the door when it was new.
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Joined: Jan 2005
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From: Visalia, California
My '77 has a piece of hose -- actually looks like gas or vacuum hose -- running from the jam to the door. It's mounted to the jam and slides through a hole in the door. You might consider the same set-up.
Last edited by Mil1ion; Jun 16, 2005 at 10:46 PM. Reason: Removed unnecessary quote
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How does it collapse inside the door?
Does it slide inside the hole in the door, or does it just collapse when the door closes? That might give me an option of running convoluted tubing inside the door.
Does it slide inside the hole in the door, or does it just collapse when the door closes? That might give me an option of running convoluted tubing inside the door.
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From: Great NW
I have seen some guy here called "Hawkrod," who has done a power-window retrofit in his '70's truck use mid-80's Bronco door-wire covers to complete his install. It looks nice in the pix but he sez you need to remove the door in order to install them effectively...
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From: waco
Mil1ion's idea sounds pretty inexpensive yet effective to me. I think that's the way I'll go. I'm not in to body panel removal if I can help it. I always have such a difficult time getting things lined back up perfectly, even when I mark the panels before removal. The only time I am usualy successful at this is with the hood for motor swaps. However I've had lot's of practice with it. lol
Doc
Doc
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I may look into the Bronco idea. As much as I hate the thought of removing the doors, I will be removing them anyway so I can paint them properly.
I want to do everything all at once (seals, keyless, etc.) so I won't have to remove them again.
I want to do everything all at once (seals, keyless, etc.) so I won't have to remove them again.
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From: waco
Wkeller, I think you have the right idea. I think it should be done right, but I also think if your going to add all that stuff then it would be good to do it all at once. I know that if I took my doors off to repaint them, sure as the world if I took them off again to add something, I would most likely accidently scratch one trying to get it back on. Then I'd have to cry like a 2 year old.
Doc
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I'm a bit of a perfectionist and after being an aircraft electrician in the Air Force I can't stand slopping wiring. I like doing things right, but because of circumstances, I'm sort of doing a "poor man's" restoration. I don't have the room to completely tear the truck down all at once so I'm pulling the doors first, doing all the mods and getting them painted inside and out.
Then I'll take the fenders and hood off and have them painted separately. That way I know that the parts of the fenders that wrap around and go under the hood will be painted properly and I know that the inside of the hood will be painted too.
After that I will pull the bed and work it separately. That will give me the chance to do a little cleanup on the back half of the frame.
Then I will get the entire truck painted again with the cab off and then reinstall the bed.
I know that when I get it painted again, it may not match "exactly" with the other parts that I had painted earlier, but I would hope with today's painting technology it won't be terribly noticeable. It will probably cost more in the long run, but at least I will know for sure that everything will be painted proplerly and I won't have any hidden rust.
Then I'll take the fenders and hood off and have them painted separately. That way I know that the parts of the fenders that wrap around and go under the hood will be painted properly and I know that the inside of the hood will be painted too.
After that I will pull the bed and work it separately. That will give me the chance to do a little cleanup on the back half of the frame.
Then I will get the entire truck painted again with the cab off and then reinstall the bed.
I know that when I get it painted again, it may not match "exactly" with the other parts that I had painted earlier, but I would hope with today's painting technology it won't be terribly noticeable. It will probably cost more in the long run, but at least I will know for sure that everything will be painted proplerly and I won't have any hidden rust.
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From: Visalia, California
Originally Posted by wkeller
How does it collapse inside the door?
Does it slide inside the hole in the door, or does it just collapse when the door closes? That might give me an option of running convoluted tubing inside the door.
Does it slide inside the hole in the door, or does it just collapse when the door closes? That might give me an option of running convoluted tubing inside the door.
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Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 389
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From: Visalia, California
Originally Posted by Mil1ion
I've never seen a set or original door speakers.
You need to have had a stereo installed for those.
Most Trucks had AM radios.
I put Sony 615's in my doors.
You need to have had a stereo installed for those.
Most Trucks had AM radios.
I put Sony 615's in my doors.
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The door panels come with plastic grills.
They also have a tendency to get broken by some people.
I installed the 615's due to them being a slimline design and capable of handling 100 W continuous. That was years ago though
They also have a tendency to get broken by some people.
I installed the 615's due to them being a slimline design and capable of handling 100 W continuous. That was years ago though