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Those "Magnum Shooters" only work when the door is closed tho. For some wiring jobs I have used regular PVC jacketed electrical cable. I have used tubing and hose like the person in post #2. I have split the tubing on one end and used pop rivets or screws to secure it to the body then the other end slides thru a hole in the door. The wire goes thru the hose or tube and then loops inside the door to avoid too much flexing. The later model corrugated wiring conduits seem to split and crack pinching the wires and causing them to flex where they shouldn't, -part of planned obsolescence.
I used rubber grommets on the doors and vacuum hose that fits tight in them. There is a hole in the doorway that is about 1.5" diameter up by the the top of the fender. I ran the hose up to it and through to the underside of the dash. I used WD40 to lube the wires and thread them in the hose. This way there is no chafing and they end up high in the dash above everything so the wires aren't droopng down. The hose doesn't stretch or anything, and the bottom grommet keeps it held in place.
i've also been lookin into the power window kits from JCW, but on the door speaker thing, i kinda ghetto rigged mine, ran the speaker wire inside the rubber seal, and then in the door through a small slit that was in the bottom of the door, then put wire loom over it, doesn't look half bad, plus the speakers work , thats all that matters to me. Heh, with 4 6X9's and 2 10 inch subs behind the seat, front speakers are a must.
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