Starting with the least expensive to most expensive, could someone tell me some ways to give my 1996 Aerostar 3.0 a little more pep, at what cost and what it might do to my gas mileage? Thanks guru's...
Tim

 

WEll, heres one, and it is free. open the air filter box, and you will see a small plastic resonator where the air flows into the box. Remove that resonator. Next, install a K&N Filter, so that the engine can take advantage of the increased flow. After that, upgrade the exhaust system. About 20- 40 HP is tied up by these things. Next, get a genuine SpiralMax and install it right in front of the TB. I own and use one, and was very inpressed by its effect. Also, our Aerostar gets 22 MPH, and about half of our driving is on city streets, stop and go. It can do 0-60 in 13 seconds. It is a '92 3.0 Extended. Ohh, and that 0-60 time was with 5 people inside. Hope this helps. About the SpiralMax, I am not a dealer, nor do I intend to be, but if you sent me a picture of your intake, where it goes into the TB, I could tell you if it is likely to work on your year. Our Aerostar needs to be dyno tested, but it figures out to be about 178 hp, and 190 ft/lbs torque.

 

Stupid question here, Khan. What's a SpiralMax? It's not one of those "feminine hygiene" things, is it? Also, what do you mean by "upgrading the exhaust?"

Thanks

 

When I say upgradeing the exhaust, I mean a higher flow muffler, and a larger pipe size. You can also have high flow cats installed. Visit www.spiralmax.com for info on the SpiralMax. Our Aerostar has 2" pipe all the way back, but we are going to have it redone soon, since it is rusting through, and upgrade it to either 2 1/4 or 2 1/2 pipe. And a modified OEM converter. The system thats one there now is just pretty much an upgraded muffler.

 

The 3.0 is very restricted from the factory airflow wise. First off, upgrade the air intake system be it with a cone filter or otherwise..The stock airbox and plumbing are junk. Second, a high flow cat will help alot...if you really want you can redo the entire exhaust but if you do make sure to put in a new Y pipe that's not as restrictive...cause that's where most of the restriction is in the exhaust. Dont even bother with the spiralmax or whatever its called, they do not work. All they do is restrict airflow even more. Take the money that you would have wasted on it and buy yourself some good quality plugs and an oem wireset. Ive done plenty of mods to mine that you cannot do because of your OBD-II so I really cant tell you much more. And as long as were talking 0-60 times, ive been clocked at 6.7...it averages around 6.9 though.. and that's with my '90 3.0 XLT shorty.

 

I have a '92 3.0 and would like to do some cheap mods. Already pulled the air horn out of the air box, and cut an extra hole in the box. Main noticable difference is it is a lot louder. Guess the exhaust is the real problem, but I thought the 4.0 had the same exhaust piping, so it must be really bad.

 

Thanks for input...really appreciate it. K&N filters are a bit pricey..anyone know best source. Also in looking around on the internet I didn't find exhaust upgrades that were specifically for the Aerostar. Will I have to have that done in a shop??
Tim

 

I think the 4.0 does have the same exhaust piping, etc...that being the case, if exhaust and intake make such a difference on the 3.0, what does it do for a 4.0?

 

The intake system on the 3.0 is actually more than adequate once the air horn (resonator) is removed and a K&N box filter installed. A cone filter would be good, except it is going to be louder than the stock airbox. From what I gather, you would rather have just better performance, without the "rice burner" loudness. For the exhaust, have a muffler should build a new cat system, with a larger diameter Y-pipe that goes into a 2" or larger high flow cat. Follow that up with whatever muffler you like, though I must say, that from experience in the market, the Flowmaster is not what it is cracked up to be. The 40 series is all right, but there are better mufflers, and better mufflers for the price. If you want loudness, and the best possible performance, go Magnaflow, if you want to be as quiet as possible, Dynomax makes a good muffler.

One more thing about the Spiralmax, which I mentioned earlier. Whether or not they work depends on the design of the intake system. The stock intake hose on a 3.0 aerostar is a little over 3". which is actually abundantly large for that size engine. Secondly, you have an Aerostar shorty, which is much lighter and lastly, does your Aerostar get 22 MPG city? Ours does, consistently. And believe you me, I'm not exactly light on the throttle, I like to go.

 

Would a freer flowing muffler alone help. I doubt I will go the whole exhaust as I don't want to replace the cat (unless it needs it), but maybe can do cat back. Mine (actually wife's) is a shorty with automatic. With wife's van, quieter is better, but not too too quiet. Get 17.5 mpg now and has heavy carbon buildup in tailpipe with bad knock that makes me have to run premium all the time. Runs good, pretty peppy (for a 3.0 that is). Besides the opened up air box (paper filter as not keen on K&N) I modded the shift modulator with a tiny leak (like the $45 B&M kit, but only $5 in materials for me) that gives it nice positive shifts. I am running Redline D4 ATF in the tranny.

 

CAt back will work, but consider that the Y-pipe going into the cat is a bit smallish. A muffler alonew will help, but not much, and redoing the whole system will unlock more power. A good high flow cat is not expensive from a parts standpoint, although a custom made y pipe may be. I am inclined to think that it is worth it, because the stock pipe is just painfully samll. Any questions as to why a 4.0 has only 10 more HP than a 3.0? On a ranger, the 4.0 has a lot more power than the 3.0. The reason is the Ranger has a better exhaust system. As to the knock, I'd say you need to clean your engine. The engine will not run well on anything higher than 85. It is knocking because ther eis carbon buildup inside the combustion chamber. This carbon increases the temperature, and compression beyond what the engine is designed for. Remember, that carbon is an insulator, and its high temperture doesn't mean it will burn, unless there is sufficient air to burn it. If it deposited there in the first place< then it is not likely to come off by itself.

 

air horn (resonator) what does this thing look like??

 

khantyranitar: Got you on the exhaust. For the carbon I am running Schaeffers Schaeffers Neutra #131 Been running at it at one ounce per gallon since about Dec 04 or for about 3500 miles.

 

What about using Seafoam to help clear out the carbon?

It's been reported to do a good job of decarbonizing engines...

 

Seafoam and Techron are the 2 leading carbon removers, but the Seafoam is better by a little. B-12 is good too. With the Techron, you fill up with Chevron brand gas, and add a bottle of Techron concentrate, and over the course of 1-3 tanks of gas it removes the deposits. The Seafoam works much faster, but you have to try not to smoke the neighbors out while you use it.