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Im not exactly sure what is so funny asavage...is 6.7 not considered fast to ya??? Yeah I know its a minivan but it doesnt have to be a dog. When it was clocked i had two captains chairs in the back with full interior....now its completely stripped. Im running the 3.0 with 4.10 gears with traclok. The engine has a completely redone exhaust system, an aftermarket intake, electric fan, shortened kick down cable, and adjustable modulator. Im going to go with an aftermarket ignition system and build a megasquirt fuel injection controller so i can run dual o2's and 24lb injectors for when i get my turboed engine done. When that's done I'll have it dynoed and see what im pushing...for now i just have the satisfaction of driving one of the quickest minivans on the road.
Glad you like your rig. Everyone should have something they're proud of. Don't want to PO you, just suggesting that perhaps your timing methodology should be reviewed -- do you beat SVO Mustangs to 60, for example?
Regards,
Al S.
('89 shorty 3.0 4.10 Trak-Lok, 22 MPG box-stock with resonator intact and towing like this.)
Starting with the least expensive to most expensive, could someone tell me some ways to give my 1996 Aerostar 3.0 a little more pep, at what cost and what it might do to my gas mileage? Thanks guru's...
Tim
On my 1992 3.0 I have advanced the ignition timing by 4 degrees. I use 89 octane gasoline and there is no pinging. There is slight ping under heavy load using 87 octane. The advance at which pinging occurs can vary by several degrees on different examples of the same engine, depending upon the condition of the combustion chambers, among other things. You really don't want any pinging under any conditions as it can seriously damage the engine. The 3.0 does not have a knock sensor so it cannot compensate for this.
When I made this change, years' ago, I especially noticed the increase of power on freeway grades such that it didn't drop out of TC lockup or needed to be moved out of overdrive as frequently. Don't think it affected the mpg much. Didn't affect the CA emissions test.
The bottles of octane booster are a waste of money. They claim that a bottle of it will increase a tank of gasoline by 6 octane points. That may well be true, but remember that 10 octane points = 1 octane number, so your 87 gasoline is now 87.6, not 93.
In the old days mechanics would slowly advance the timing until there was a trace of ping then back it off by one degree, in order to get the most power out of the grade of gasoline they were using.
air horn (resonator) what does this thing look like??
Take the top off your air filter box, and look for a funnel shaped piece of plastic attached to the opening in the front of the box. Take that piece of plastic out, and put the filter and the box back together.
I think it makes a little bit of difference. Seems to run a bit better at highway speeds. Haven't measured the MPG yet.
Removeing the plastic resonater won't do anything for your fuel economy, because the fuel air mixture never leans out substantially on a FI vehicle, however, it will increasee your high end power, and removeing it is free, and if you don't like the effect, just pop it back in.
still like the idea of the 6.0L Ferd Power Stroke in the back with twin 8L CAT turbo's, max boost and 6 inch stacks out the roof with alcohol flame stack injection.
about 600 shp into the new 6 speed manual, drop the clutch at 4k, a Viper and Lightning eater.
wear hearing protectors, the grin is free and acceleration induced.
Removeing the plastic resonater won't do anything for your fuel economy, because the fuel air mixture never leans out substantially on a FI vehicle, however, it will increasee your high end power, and removeing it is free, and if you don't like the effect, just pop it back in.
I did that and it really helped a bit. A 3.0 owner is grateful for any help in OD above 60 mph.
No negative sound effects. MPG increased a bit but that may be due to the O2 sensor which is not working properly anymore (check engine light) and is due for a change tomorrow.
Actually removing the resinator should increase Hp and MPG a little bit because it is a choke point and it will allow more cool air in = more HP. It is common practice on all Fords and it is FREE!
Also replace that O2 ASAP! Otherwise you will be replacing a lot more!
Now there is a common misconception. Many people belive they can get more horsepower by removing their converter. Truth is, on all vehicle made after '93, and most vehicle after '85, removeing the converter causes a torque penalty, and only high end performance could be noted, and even then, gains would be marginal. However, if the vehicle is poorly maintained, and the converter begins to plug, now you will pay a power penalty. At this point, yeah, removeing the converter would cause a power boost, but only because the vehicle is screwed up already. Far more power can be gained, by simple tune up (The O2 sensor is a tune up item), than haveing an out of tune vehicle without a converter. All vehicle made today run better and have more power with the converter in place. But only if it is tuned, which really is true of vehicles without converters too. Also, I don't believe in global warming, but any idiot can see that petroleum is a limited resource and that we consume it far faster than nature can produce it. Lets all do our part to conserve.