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A lot of people say twin I beams aren't very good either, but I guarantee a twin I beam set up will ride and steer just as good if not better than A frames. I've ridden hundreds of thousands of miles on straight I beams and twin I beams. I can promise you this....there is a reason why 12 hours went by with no responses to that statement. Whether you buy it or not is up to you, but I would seriously re-evaluate your shopping practices.
The single I beam is not what causes poor ride and handeling....if you re read the statement you your self quoted you will clearly see what causes poor ride and handeling. Bad springs and bushings will cause another design of front end to ride just as poorly if not worse than an I beam with bad components. One last thing....I have never seen an A frame type set up that would last as long as any I beam set up.
Doc
Thanks Doc.
No, it won't handle as well as a Corvette or Ferrari or my Miata but with the right alignment and a few relatively inexpensive off the shelf bolt on parts it can be made to ride and handle as well as any 4000# nose heavy vehicle, short of possibly the Lightning (not sure of what it weighs?) with any of the commonly used suspension swaps. Yes I could build a custom full tube chassis with purpose designed 4W double wishbone independent suspension and road race it, but there are few others here with the skills to pull it off. See my ride and handling thread for more details.
Doc, I never said anything about Twin-I-Beams, in fact I like them so much, my 55 is sitting on a Twin-I-Beam frame, strong, a good ride and bullet proof, just like you said. But every straight axle I ever owned, were well maitained and still rode rough and FORD had the 'better idea' to change them.
A 55 on a twin I beam...Now that sounds like a cool ride.
As far as a single I beam riding rough....I think a lot of that has to do with the springs and shocks that it's attached to.
Doc.
I started a 1956 body on a 1968 frame and i know if i ever get this thing finished i will not try to change another frame with out having alot more money and equipment.
You will have to custom make everything. It has been fun to me but it is to much work. I have got a FE motor and a 4 speed tranny and it does not look like it is going to work. The tranny shifter is not going to line up in the right place, the motor looks like it might bump into the front of the cab. hmmmm what to do and how to do it.
i might just scrap this entire deal and go back to my orignal 1956 frame and try to fix the damage on it.
I put a 5.0 from an 89 in mine with the AOD and it fit with no problems. I did have to move the motor mounts about an inch forward from the stock 302 location, but the holes were already in the frame for the shift. At present, my only problem is the front tract width, which is wider than the stock 55. I'm hoping a positive offset and narrower rim will help. Presently running 31.5X 10.5 X 15's all around.
As Ax stated ...any frame change is not easy and without plenty of challenges, a lot of head scratching and wasted time is part of the job. A front clip is most likely the easiest fix especially if you want to drop the truck into the grass.
Huntsman, The curiosity is killing me....what frame did you use? I saw an article a while back about taking that big wide crossmember that the twins mount to from a 65 to 79 model truck and putting it on a 53 and up to use the twin I beams, and later model motor stands, but I don't remember the details. I know that in my 73 and both of my 75's, that big cross member is not only riveted, it is also welded. I t would be a big chore to get it out with out ruining it.
Doc.
I'm running a 69 F-100 frame, with the I-beams from a 75 and it IS a massive cross member and also welded in. I don't see how you could take one out without buggering in up.
Yep that's what I was thinking too. 69 F100 frame with 75 model I beams? GOOD choice. Stout frame with later model beams. The king pins are a shade bigger in the 75, plus it has the disk breaks. I like your thinking! With using that frame....do you think you would have room for one of the narrow big blocks.....like say an FE?
Doc.
I don't think it would be a problem, there seems to be enough room for any size engine under the hood. I had a 360 in a 73, which I bought new and it is basically the same set up.
I did increase my wheel base from the 110" to 110 3/4" to center the front wheels in the opening, which did cause the firewall to move rearward by that amount.
I wonder how it would work...just out of curiosity....to mount the 73 spindels on a 55 straight axle? It seems to me....if that were possible, it would be a dirt cheap way of having the bullet proof straight I beam, with modern disk brakes. A person could replace the king pins during that swap, then make necessary spring modifications, and bushing replacements to have a realy good and low buck front end.
Doc
Doc, There are several adapter kits available to upgrade the original spindles to accept later model (74-90) Ford rotors. They typically come with the caliper bracket and an inner bearing adapter. I got a kit from ECI, the bracketry uses full sized GM calipers, Ford rotors, inner bearings, and seals and GM mid-sized outer bearings. Basically its a quick and painless way to upgrade to disc brakes on these old trucks
Not sure, but it seems like on the ends of the 55 straight axle, where the king pin passes through, that part is shorter than on the ends of a twin-i-beam.
You would have to make sure the kingpin inclination is the same on both spindles as well??? Spacers could be fabricated to take up the space, but like the frame swap there are a lot easier and cheaper ways to get disc brakes as Bobby pointed out.
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