AC leak
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New User
Joined: Nov 2004
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AC leak
Ok, I did the r134 retrofit on my 86 F150 this weekend, and before I get flamed I know that most people don't like the kits but it was the only way I could make sure I had everything. My issue is that whenever release te hose from the fill valve the freon would shoot out. Does this mean I need a new condensor or did I make a mistake? Any help would be appreciated.
Hotshot
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 11,697
Likes: 3
From: Marengo, Iowa
somehow the valve is sticking, you will likely need to replace it, or find out why it is staying open. I have used those kits with success, so don't feel bad about using it, I have many that cause no problems. I have yet to experience the problems that many talk about, I feel that most of those problems were from the early days before they got the additives figured out to get R-12 and 134 to work together...
Freshman User
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 32
Likes: 0
From: West Lafayette, IN
Same Problem
I tried doing my A?C recharge this past weekend and i have the exact same problem. Once i run the R-134 into the system, i turn off the engine and try and disconnect the hose/guage and all the freon/pressure just comes shooting back out of the port.
If you find a solution to this problem let me know.
I have a thread on here labeled "A/C conversion help". Hopefully we can get this figured out quickly, it is getting mighty hot.
If you find a solution to this problem let me know.
I have a thread on here labeled "A/C conversion help". Hopefully we can get this figured out quickly, it is getting mighty hot.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 1,635
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From: Niceville, FL.
Most likely a bad Shraeder valve, its probably why you lost your R12 to start with. While you're at it, replace the high pressure valve also. Get ones compatible with R134A and especially not a tire valve core. A complete conversion done right will last and cool as well as R12. The "kits" have cost several of my acquaintances much grief and $ over the years. I can assure you "Black Death" is not fiction and it's not cheap to recover from. If it's worth doing then it's worth doing right. Google "R134A Conversion" and/or "R12 Retrofit" there is lots of good info out there. I retrofitted my '83 F350 about 4 years ago and it cools as well as my wife's '03 Taurus.
Freshman User
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 32
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From: West Lafayette, IN
Possible Valve Solution
After reviewing my procedure and trying to find out where i messed up I have this small suggestion.
The kit i used had me install a 2 inch or so aluminum fitting onto the low side, which is the fill port for lack of better terms. The aluminum fitting, in my case, was to long and would depress the shreader valve as soon as i put it on the old system. It should be able to thread all the way down to a nice firm point, without depressing the shreader pin and evacuating all of the refrigerant. I have yet to come up with a solution to this problem. I am going to try and replace the scheader valve with a shorter one and hope that solves the problem.
Let me know if this sheds any light on your problem. Thanks.
The kit i used had me install a 2 inch or so aluminum fitting onto the low side, which is the fill port for lack of better terms. The aluminum fitting, in my case, was to long and would depress the shreader valve as soon as i put it on the old system. It should be able to thread all the way down to a nice firm point, without depressing the shreader pin and evacuating all of the refrigerant. I have yet to come up with a solution to this problem. I am going to try and replace the scheader valve with a shorter one and hope that solves the problem.
Let me know if this sheds any light on your problem. Thanks.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 1,635
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From: Niceville, FL.
For info on "black death" see: http://www.ackits.com/index.cfm?fuse...=black%20death . The case I'm personally familiar with, a friend of mine used "kit" of PAG oil and R134 in an '87 Taurus without removing the old mineral refrigerant oil, flushing the system or any of the other things it's really necessary to do for a sucessful conversion.
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Posting Guru
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 1,635
Likes: 0
From: Niceville, FL.
I use the Castrol R134A Retrofit kit P/N 26242 for '80 & up Fords. Comes with 8 oz. Polyolester (POE) oil, proper o-rings, new springs for the snap together fittings, etc.
Refrigerant, orfice tube and new accumulator is separate. I drain as much of the old mineral oil as possibe (especially compressor and condenser) and flush with mineral spirits if it looks contaminated. For '80-'86 trucks, I also add 2 oz. more of the oil when charging since the original oil capacity is 10 oz.
Refrigerant, orfice tube and new accumulator is separate. I drain as much of the old mineral oil as possibe (especially compressor and condenser) and flush with mineral spirits if it looks contaminated. For '80-'86 trucks, I also add 2 oz. more of the oil when charging since the original oil capacity is 10 oz.
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Elder User
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 633
Likes: 1
Does sound like the schrader valve is stuck open. My son's Mazda has the same issue.... most likely why his AC quit working as well. I have had success if the old system is evacuated manually ( open the line ) and then put in PAG oil and refill with 134A. A total "purge by the dealer" hasn't been needed... although that is just my experience..... seems like "it doesn't have to be PERFECT, but it does have to be good". From what I've heard, those who just try to top if off with 134A pretty much always have the "black death".
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