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Old Jun 10, 2005 | 09:53 AM
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1-Wire Alternator Problem

I have a 289 V-8 in my 1954 Ford F100. The engine is rebuilt and originally came from a 1967 Mustang. I bought a chrome 1-wire Ford alternator from the local performance shop. It is rated at 70 amps. When I started the truck up, the voltage was about 12.3 That is with the electric fan and the electric fuel pump running. Then, when I turned the A/C on, the engine died. I tried it twice with the same results. Has anybody had any good luck with the 1-wire alternator? Thanks, Jag
 
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Old Jun 10, 2005 | 02:16 PM
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They are not as good as a factory high output system, but they are easy to hook up. Where do you have the one wire hooked up, and what size wire did you use?
 
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Old Jun 10, 2005 | 04:28 PM
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I went back to the supplier. Her said that they had accidentally given me the wrong model. He gave me another that has a small regulator and wires on the back of the case. The first one was bare. The primary wire I hooked up is very thick. (maybe a size 10?) The first unit as well as the second has a thick threaded post on the back with a red ring around it. This is where I had it hooked up. Maybe the new one will work better. Thanks, Jag
 
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Old Jun 10, 2005 | 06:47 PM
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you do know with a one-wire you have to energize it by reving up the motor a couple grand to get it to turn on. If not it never starts charging.
 
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Old Jun 11, 2005 | 10:58 AM
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Originally Posted by classic79
you do know with a one-wire you have to energize it by reving up the motor a couple grand to get it to turn on. If not it never starts charging.
I was reading an article someone had a link to, where the guy said some of these one-wire alternators sense the dip in voltage when you crank the engine. So that's how the internal regulator knows to bring the alt online. But there can be problems associated with that too.

These one-wire alt's seem to be good for hobby and show vehicles, but I don't know if they are worth the trouble on a daily driver.
 
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Old Jun 15, 2005 | 02:09 PM
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the one-wire should be just fine for a daily driver.

it's true it will need to get to a certain rpm to be able to excite itself, but that isn't going to be several thousand, mine kicks in with start-up (EFI)

the real drawback is monitoring if it's really working. switched voltmeter or ammeter is the only way.

one more thing, it will constantly pull a very small current from the battery. if it sits for a month it may not start.

i believe the one-wires are all gm units, but i could be wrong.
 
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Old Jun 16, 2005 | 05:19 PM
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Ummm......I run a one wire 100 amp alt on my daily driver with no problem and I have a volt gauge wired to monitor it. Mine is a GM unit from proform. I had a 120 amp in-line breaker from summit but my alt would trip the breaker at idle after 4 minutes or as soon as I hit the gas which ever came first. My truck runs about 14.X volts when running and 12.X when I crank it over. I really don't know much about electrical so I had the gauge professionally wired. I did hook the alt up myself which was a PITA because I have a 76 with the external voltage regulator. I had to re-wire the eletrical system so I got power to the dash.
 
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Old Jun 17, 2005 | 12:42 PM
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After having the manufacturer check out the unit, I reinstalled it. It only puts out 12.5v without the A/C on. The manufacturer says that as amps go up, volts go down. I am also thinking that perhaps my battery is discharged, so am going to put it on the charger and try again latter. I am also going to check and see the amps being pulled by the electric fan and the elec. fuel pump. Thanks, Jag
 
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Old Jun 17, 2005 | 05:22 PM
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The manufacturer says that as amps go up, volts go down
They are correct. At 12.5 volts, the alt is barely keeping up. But the battery is not being discharged. Once the voltage drops below 12, then the battery is being discharged, which will happen in a normal system at idle with a lot of electrical load. Once the engine rpm is increased, the voltage should rise since the alt output increases with rpm.
 
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